For the third time in three weeks the vehicle fails to start, but will crank and sputter/die, after a run in temps above 100. Today 108, short run to borders, less than 5 miles, car set 5-10min. no over heat problem, gave up after an hour.
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The first code is for an evaporative emission canister leak and it might be due to a gas cap. The second one is for a cam sensor circuit problem and this will keep the vehicle from starting. The third error is for the transmission torque converter.
Is your check engine light on n can you drive it to autozone get free diag I need to know what codes r store in your PCM sounds to me like crank sensor it fires your injector n coils but to be on the safe side give me the codes ok good like
Many possibilities. The fact that it starts right back up does eliminate some issues though. Probably best to use a scan tool that allows real time data while driving to catch the exact failure. Could be dirty IAC or EGR. Could be wiring/connection fault. Could be signs of soon to fail fuel pump.
its misfiring ever do a tuneup this decade?
if it flooding it will misfire, and will stall.
and will be hard to start. if at all, until all that fuel evaporates.
the operators guide covers this, flooding
cranking + WOT,
crank with throttle wide open throttle clears most flooding.
many cars do get worse parked a long time. that is what they do.
seen spark wires go bad, and TPS go bad (really just worse)
the spark wires old love to suck up water, and then short.
Do the tuneup then use a scan tool cranking, to see if you have DTC errors.
make sure its dont flood.
do if the spark tips are soaking in raw fuel that is flooding and the test. (for 100 years, now)
The fuel filter you change every 3 or 4 years so you should know when that was done & that is not your problem A a bad fuel pump maybe but not related to the getting up to operating temp then acting up Your going to need professional help You only change parts after you learn how they work & how to test them & they fail Can't pretend we are in the 1960's anymore these vehicles are to hi tech & parts expensive
May be it wouldn't be a bad idea to bight the bullet and have a shop or dealer run a diagnosis to see what the actual problem is. All of the parts you replaced could have been check to see if there where good or bad. I'm sure you have spent more than a $100 in parts already. The average diagnostic charge is around a $100.
What I would need to know from you is some specifics.
What engine do you have? Do you have fuel pressure at the rail? do you have spark? do you have power to the fuel pump? do you have power to the coil?
Since you replaced all of the above parts I have to assume that you checked for all of this?
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You named the three items I'd look at first. get a manual (chilton or haynes are fine for this) and a digital multimeter. Run the tests on those and likely you will find the problem. You can also remove and clean the IAC valve and passages but do not turn the valve while cleaning or it may not seat correctly.