FIRING ORDER & CAR QUITS WHEN YOU PLUG IN MASSIVE AIR FLOW SENSOR
THIS CAR HAS REALLY GOT US BAFFLED. TO START WE PUT ON MASSIVE AIR FLOW SENSOR. STILL WANT RUN WITH IT PLUGGED IN. THEN WE CHANGED THE PLUGS. DONE SAME THING. PUT ON A ANOTHER MASSIVE AIR FLOW SENSOR. SAME THING, CHECKED CATA-CONVERTER NOT THAT. PUT ON FUEL FILTER. STILL DOES THE SAME THING WHEN THE AIR FLOW SENSOR IS PLUGGED IN QUITS. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
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Could be a few things. But here are the obvious. Check for a vacuum leak around the intake. When you put the car into drive it starts putting strain on the engine, a vacuum leak will give it too much oxygen and cause a fuel mixture issue / reading.
If nothing wrong there, you may have a bad throttle position sensor. When you put the car into drive and it starts putting strain on the engine it will pull the idle down then the sensor will adjust it automatically. Hope this helps.
Vaccum test the machine,this will narrow down the problems source....Idle air control(IAC) can and does malfunction without setting fault codes....Hence the old tried and true method of vaccum testing,also a fuel pressure test wouldn't hurt.....You can purchase all these tools from ebay for less than 100.00.....Well worth the initial investment...
Three things you should check using a good code checker which can read sensor outputs - the throttle position sensor (TPS), the mass air flow sensor (MAF) and the EGR valve. While you are at it, replace the PCV valve.
Could be a number of things, for starters you could have a massive air leak on your induction system. Does it idle when you start it, and only dies when in gear. Is there an engine light lit up on your dash. If so I'm guessing your mass air flow sensor is bad, or really dirty sometimes you can clean them. They are around a hundred bucks, the cleaner is 7 bucks might try to clean your MAFS (mass air flow sensor) As usual the best and cheapest thing is to just stop off at a National Parts Store and have them scan your vehicle for any CODES. Hope this helps, please let me know either way.
unplug the fuel injectors, check the olhms on all. the readings should all be the same, around 11-11.5 olhms. Any readings that are higher is a sign of a bad injector which is what your problems sounds like., putting to much fuel to a cylinder causing different fuel amounts to each cylinder and causing it to backfire out of the throttle body , excess fuel . Also remove the throttle body and clean with cleaner and a toothbrush after replacing any injectors. Or there's a simpler answer and that the cambshaft is worn-out/round causing the lifters not to open enough to let in all the fuel. A worn belt would not cause misfires only on select cylinders but rather jump timing, slipping a notch on a gear and possibly bending a valve or valves and this cause a loud clacking or a really a sign to quit running the motor because it's broke! Good luck.
Sometimes you can purchase a defective spark plug or the problem could be that you mixed up the firing order however this is unlikely but possible. I would pull out each plug to see if they are dirty or black replace the black or wet plug with a new one and recheck the firing order.