Question about 2003 Nissan Xterra

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Replacing water pump on 2003 xterra how do I remove the crack shaft pullys?

I'm replacing the water pump and looks like I need to pull the crank pully. Is there a trick to keeping the crank from turning while I try to loosen it?

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  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    I replaced the water pump and now its really wobbly what should I do

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  • 1,010 Answers

No. There is no trick.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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I installed a new powersteering pump on a 88 gmc k1500, now it eats serpentine belts cant get the pullies lined up right how do i fix?


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Diagram of changing a 2000 model nissan xterra timing belt


I am assuming you have the 3.3 litter v-6?cf56ba7.gifI just did my own so I can offer you a few words of personal advice. Make sure, before you remove the crank shaft pulley, that the engine is at TDC. There is a pointer on the lower timing cover that should line up with the mark that is furthest to the left on the crank pulley (looking at it from the front of the truck). If you are replacing the timing belt for maintenance, not failure, make several marks on the cam pullies to the rear of the timing cover with a paint pen before removing the old belt and make sure that everything stays aligned to those marks upon reassembly. If this method is not an option, use the timing dimples on the back of the upper timing cover only as reference points for the cam pulleis (this is where I ran in to trouble). What is most important is that there are exactly 40 teeth on the belt between the marks on the cam pullies and 43 teeth between the right cam pully mark (right cam as you look at the engine from the front of the truck) and the mark on the crank pully. I used a Goodyear Belt that actually had marks that indicated the 40 and 43 tooth increments. Make sure you have the belt on the right directon, arrows to the front of the truck. Again it is very important that the crank pully remain at TDC (top dead center) during the entire process. Good luck, hope you get it the first time and not the second like me!!

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1 Answer

WHERE IS THE WATER PUMP LOCATED...2003 ELANTRA


hi from uk fortunately the water pump on your car is not driven by cambelt ! the pump is driven by serp belt the pumps location is = if you look at front of engine view from front wing as you look down front you will see a large pully on left of cambelt covers and this is the water pump access to pump is best by supporting car and removing wheel and then the under wing cover that is secured by screws some advice for you if you intend renewing pump the pump pully is secured by 4 bolts use a 10 mm cranked ring spanner or socket loosen these bolts before you remove the drivebelt as belt holds pully and helps to prevent pully turning as you try to loosen these bolts hope this helps ?

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if it is damp, the pump is gone....

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Nissan xterra 2003 car noisy problem


If it's the water pump there should be water leaking, if it's the steering pump the noise  would change as you turn the steering wheel left to right. If it's constant, it could be just old belt and bad idler and tension pully. Start buy praying a little water to the belt while the engine is running and if the noise goes away, the belt is in time to be chaged. If the noise is still there, then most likly it's the ilder bering or tension bearing. Good luck

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The belt that runs the water pump on 1995 Auora


Looks like the belt got hot??? You mean there are shreds of belt material all over the place? If so you have a locked pully somepalce. Replacing the belt is easy, find the diagram of the belt system under your hood. Find the pully that is the tensionor pully. Fine the correct wrench, remove tension, slip of belt from one pulley. remove belt completely, then, since you have shredded belt material, spin each pulley and see which one isn't turning easily. All the pullies will spin easily execpt for the crank. If you have one that's not, well, that one is shot. Needs to be replaced. And if may not just be the pully, might be the accesory which the pulley sits on. Example, water pump, altenator, etc....

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Need to set timing on a 88 subaru 1.8 liter


The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

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