Question about 1999 Mazda MX-5 Miata

1 Answer

Abs hi i have just replaced the rear pads on my 98 uk 5 everthing went ok , whilst it was up on the axle stands i started it up put it in gear and slowly applied the footbrake so that i could clean a bit of the surface rust off the rear discs after 4 or5 pushes on the footbrake the abs warning light came on and wont go off i have checked the brake fluid and its ok cannot see any leaks peddle stays firm ,servo is working does anyone have any ideas many thanks mel

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Not solved the problem yet but when i do i will let you know but it might cost you!!!!!!!!

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Have a 2000 gmc jimmy 4wd 4.3 liter v6. The truck had some problems with a nasty vibration in the rear for quite some time for the previous owner. Had the tire on and off several times checking every thing...


First, is the ABS light on? If yes by pass the fuse removal step, and lets not even go there it is out of the equation.
If the ABS light is OFF...before we replace more and more parts...that might still be in good condition and that might cost you money you don't have right now for the guessing game...pull the fuse to the ABS brakes, this will kill that system, once the ABS light displays on the dash, we have just eliminated it from the equation....what equation you ask....well what if the ABS was at fault and is the culprit...would't that lock up the wheel if it is sensing trouble, now it is disconnected try it if it works you can leave it alone or spend more money on the fix, when the ABS light is on on any car this means it no longer has that feature, which means the car will now be stopping with regular power brakes not ABS, I have a Mustang for years like this cause it just costs too much to fix it, and it is NOT part of any states inspection requirement.
OK so much for that, next check the axle bearings, raise rear off the ground both sides support on jack stands and turn the axles by hand..feel binding? How about up and down play on the axle hub? If you have bad axles or C.V. joints the rotor will shake and cause the ABS sensor to try to stop the wheel from turning, so any binding or excessive play have the bearing/c.v. joints replaced.
If all that is ok, now we go back to the brakes, check the condition of both rear neoprene rubber brake lines, if they are cracked and brittle(sorry looking) replace them, they have a tendency to collapse on the inside of the hose causing the fluid to lock up the calipers pistons, so check this .... it definately sounds like the brake hydraulic system is contaminated, and the flush was probably a right idea, however it did not complete the repair.
If I were you, I would pull the calipers from both rears and test them in a vise, put a 1/2 " piece of wood trim in between the brake pads(caliper bolted in vise, brake pads back in it, wood acts as the rotor for this test, get it?) If no wood the pistons will come out of there bore and the test is worthless...apply a low pressure regulation of compressed air to each caliper through the brake line port into the caliper...do the pistons apply pressure on the wood? Do they retract when you release the pressure, or are they stuck"frozen"...If so this is your problem...sticking calipers, inspect the rotors for overheating signs of hair line cracks/blueish coloration if they are over heated replace as they may have lost there temper and may have become too brittle.
Always replace brakes as an axle set ...two rotors...two calipers....two disc/drum brake pads.
Below is a laundry list of ABS brake bleeding proceedures to follow only if you replace items other then downstream of the ABS modules...things like wheel cylinders(calipers) brake lines etc...all get the normal brake bleeding.
Here is thearticle I found in sequence for ABS systems:
Anytime the a brake system is opened to replace components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, the master cylinder, or brake lines or hoses, air gets inside. The air has to be removed by bleeding the brakes if you want a firm brake pedal. Air trapped in the lines, calipers or wheel cylinders will make the pedal feel soft and spongy. Air is compressible, so when the brakes are applied any air bubbles in the system must first be compressed before the hydraulic fluid will transmit pressure to apply the brakes.

As a rule, the brake circuits on most vehicles with anti-lock brakes can be bled in the usual manner, provided no air has gotten into the ABS modulator assembly. If the only components you replaced were downstream of the modulator (calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses or lines), chances are normal bleeding procedures will clear the lines of any unwanted air.

Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder. It does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.
HAPPY MOTORING!!

Jun 26, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

Bad rear axle bearing and seal on a 2000 jeep grand


the bearing does not always have to be really bad for the seal to fail. Centrifugal force will throw axle grease outward where it gets on the rotor. That can make it feel like the rotor is out of round. If grease got on the brake pads I'd replace them and perhaps even the rotor. As far as the caliper being frozen, possible....check it out when you have it apart. You can have more than one shoe untied at the same time. Not always, but it can happen.
When replacing the seal make sure you put some grease on the lip before putting the axle back in. by doing that it won't fail from dry running before the diff lube reaches it.

May 15, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

HOW TO REMOVE LEFT REAR AXLE ON 1999 SUBURBAN 1500 TO INSTALL GOOD ONE


Put rear tire's on jack stand's, remove left rear tire, brake caliper and bracket and slide off brake rotor, then remove rear end cover get a pan for fluid to drain into,there will be a set of gear's through the gear's on the right side of the ring gear there will be a pin about 13/4" in dim. and about 5" long at one of the end's there will be a small bolt that hold's that pin with an 8mm head going through it, remove that bolt,slide pin out, go over to axle push in (do not turn axle) go back under truck remove horse shoes clip at end of axle, then side axle out, install new axle and refill with gear oil some take a anti-slip additive.Goodluck

Dec 04, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Suburban

2 Answers

How to replace rear axle resevoir gasket and service rear axle


Most Fords do not have a drain plug in the bottom of the rear. Look around, you might get lucky!! If it does, a 1/2 inch breaker bar lug will fit into the plug. Drain the fluid out, preferrable over night. Put the plug back in and take the plug out of the cover. That is your level/fill plug. Fill the box with gear oil until it reaches the bottom of the plug hole. Install the plug and your done. If there is no drain plug in the bottom, it get's a little messy. Take out all the bolts holding the cover on and gently pry the cover off. Drain out all the fluid and put the cover on with a new gasket. Fill to the level/plug hole. This fluid is the worse smelling you have in a vehicle. Hope this helps.

Oct 10, 2009 | 2004 Ford E Series

1 Answer

1996 dodge ram 3500, abs brakes are locking up


is it the front or rear locking up? you really have to have this truck loaded (load valve under bed) before the back brakes come on and i think these are the same as my 1999 2500 where the rear is only abs, and not on the front..dumb design i know, but thats how it is...determining if its rear abs only and which axle is locking up will help pin point the problem...i put 100000 miles on my dodge since i got it in 2001 and i put 8 sets of pads on the front and just changed the rear lining and thats only because the rear wheel cylinder was leaking causing the rear brakes to lock up..

Jun 20, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Club Cab

3 Answers

My Mercedes ML 270 cdi ABS etc lights and gearbox.


  • you need a Brake safety switch replaced.This is located behind you brake pedal.it's a common problem. The warning lights will reset after a few engine starts.

May 18, 2009 | 2002 Mercedes-Benz M-Class

2 Answers

ABS LIGHTS


unplug the abs control module and check for water in the connector

Apr 16, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

98' Ford Windstar has a spongy brake


Have you had anyone try to clean and adjust the rear brakes? You will need a shop to scan the van for ABS codes first to cure the ABS light.

Mar 02, 2009 | 1996 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Durango ABS


ok first replace the wheel speed sensor on top of the rear axle. if that does not work replace the vss on the transmission. vss vehicle speed sensor good luck

Nov 23, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Rear wheel brakes lock up


It could be a couple of things..Either you have a fluid leak and its getting on the brake pads making them grab or it could be the abs system itself.. There is a speed sensor on the rear axle which also controls the abs.. That can be changed easily and isnt too expensive.. Kip

Jun 24, 2008 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

Not finding what you are looking for?
1999 Mazda MX-5 Miata Logo

186 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mazda Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

61037 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21949 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

6812 Answers

Are you a Mazda Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...