I just bought an 88 ford ranger 4x4 4spd od 2.9 . At first it sounded like a sowing machine so my son and I changed the lifters and push rods and found one lifter colapsed. Well after filling it back up with 20w50 oil and adjusting the rockers it sounded nice. Then after warm up I noticed the oil pressure dropped from 40 down to 20 then at idle it goes down to 5. And it has a valve tap. One person tells me it could be a spun bearing another says pump this truck has 170,000 miles. help
I just bought a BII with famous tick..........oil pressure light came on (no gauge). I installed mechanic gauge and showed 5 psi so I decided to replace oil pump. Pulled pan off (not fun!) the pickup tube was clogged and the was part of the timing chain tensioner in pan. I then pulled timing cover off only to find chain streched and the chain guide and tensioner pretty much gone. I think tick was chain slap..........will know for sure in a couple days.
Possibly clearances "closing" at operating temparature? 20w50? Kinda heavy isn't it?Spun bearing - should make more noise than a "Tap"? I've heard several low and high mileage 2.9 engines "tap" but quits after warm up? That SEEMS to be somewhat common with the2.9 Sorry can't be more specific.
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OIL SWITCH DONT HAVE TORQUE SPECS.TO LOOK UP.WHEN YOU INSTALL A NEW OIL SWITCH DONT OVER TIGHTEN IT.BESURE TO USE WHITE TEFLON TAPE ON OIL PRESSURE SWITCH THREADS IF YOU ARE INSTALLING THE OLD ONE BACK IN, OR THE NEW OIL SWITCH DONT HAVE NO SEALER ON ITS THREADS.
This is not what you wanted to hear. I had a Ranger (Emerald Green) The low oil pressure was caused most likely by a rod end bearing that was for some reason worn therefore leaving a gap in the bearing mating survaces so oil was running out the sides of the rod end bearing causing the low oil presure. The ticking that went crazy was the rod end bearing that destroyed itself and fell into the oil pan.
Quite possibly you now have a broken connecting rod as for the reason it shut down unless the engine computer sensed ZERO oil pressure and shut off the ignition.
I can tell you your problem is probably not the oil pump.
I see the following instore for you
1. head removal / valve resurfacing
2. crankshaft polishing
3. rod end bearing replacement and possibly resizing
The oil pump is the least of your problems.
Just being honest so you can understand what could be instore for you. Sadly it is not cheap.
You could be low on oil or the sending unit could be bad or a few other things. Lets take it one step at a time. First change the oil and filter.Recheck. Also does engine make any knocking or rattling sounds. After you do these checks leave a comment of the results and I will get back with you on the next steps depending on results.
Choice of oil has more to do with climate and driving conditions than anything else. If you live in a warmer climate and/do a lot of city driving, the heavier oil would be the better choice. In colder conditions where thicker oil has a tendency to not circulate as well, a lighter oil would be a better choice. Hope this helps answer your question.
Did you check oil pressure with a oil pressure gauge from the oil gallerys in the block. Determine if the oil pressure is adequate. Most likely its probably a bad gauge but if you used a oil pressure gauge and there readings inidictive of low source oil pressure then most likely you have a pump failure, or there is inadequate oil volume in your engine.
The camshaft may be worn or the lifters .that explains the missing when you run it at operating temp.By the description of the oil. the reasomn the canmshaft wore out and the valve lifters is because the oil was not changed on a regular basis.