I brought this taurus across the country and ended up replacing the fuel pump along the way. Now I have no heat at all, and the door locks constantly click, which has now dulled down to a constant click near the fuse box... what should I do?
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Re: No heat, electric door locks constantly click...
Hello that constant click most likely is the relay for your door locks the contact inside is prob stuck need to replace as far as heat goes your thermostat under the housing of your top radiator hose needs changing its most likely stuck open goodluck
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Siphon as much fuel out of the tank as possible with a vacuum pump and deposit it into a gas can.
Unplug the fuel pump inertia switch located behind the trim panel on the right side of the trunk. Start the engine and wait for it to stall.
Disconnect the negative battery cable in the engine compartment. Loosen the clamp nut for the battery's black cable with a wrench and remove the cable from the battery terminal.
Raise the car with its own floor jack and support it on jack stands, available from any auto parts store. Support the car on its rear end where the fuel cap and tank are located.
Removing the Tank
Open the gas cap door and remove the three bolts on the metal flange surrounding the filler neck (the pipe that you pump gasoline into) with a wrench.
Disconnect any metal braces between the filler tube and the car body and supporting the tube. Remove their bolts or screws with a wrench/screwdriver.
Disconnect the fuel and vapor line clamps with a screwdriver, then disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and the connector to the emission shutoff valve.
Raise a floor jack under the fuel tank under the right rear corner of the car near the fuel cap. Place a block of wood large enough to cover the entire top part of the jack to protect the tank.
Unbolt the tank's support straps twrapped around the bottom of the tank with a wrench. Disconnect any other fuel lines and electrical connectors remaining on the top of the tank; press on their quick-connect fittings.
Removing the Pump
Tap the fuel pump assembly's locking ring counterclockwise with a wood rod or brass punch until it loosens.
Lift the long, curved fuel pump module out of the tank until you can reach its locking tabs, then squeeze the tabs together with your fingers and remove the fuel pump module from the tank. Pull off and discard the lock ring gasket from the top of the module.
Separate the fuel pump from the assembly by removing its clamp with pliers, disconnecting its electrical connector with pliers and removing its mounting screws. Use a Torx wrench to remove the screws.
Clean the fuel pump's mounting flange, tank mounting surface and seal ring groove with acetone or lacquer thinner and a clean rag.
Detach the strainer from the assembly by removing its C-clip with a small flat screwdriver. Wash the strainer with carburetor cleaner spray and reconnect it to the assembly. Clip the C-clip in place by hand.
Mount the replacement fuel pump in place on the module using its mounting screws and the Torx wrench, then plug in the electrical connector and connect the clamp by hand.
Align the fuel pump assembly with the retainer within the tank and push it into the retainer with your hands until the tabs click into place.
Install the pump assembly's sender plate by hand. Make sure the locating keys are in the keyways and the O-ring is in place.
Install a new seal ring on the fuel pump module by pushing it in place on the locking ring's underside; rub heavy grease on the seal ring to hold it in place. Insert the module into the hole in the tank and turn the locking ring clockwise to lock it in place.
Connect the fuel tank to the car in the reverse order of removal--raise it back into position with the floor jack, connect the fuel lines and electrical connectors strap it in place with the straps.
Lower the car and reconnect the battery cable. Connect the fuel pump inertia switch and press its reset button to energize the pump
You can get a general price by checking Autozone.com for the pump. The difficulty depends on your skills, the fuel tank has to be removed, and there are a couple of special tools required to remove the high pressure fuel line on the tank. An experienced mechanic could have it done in 1.5 to 2 hours.
its either a bad fuel pump or you may have to take the fuel pump out and replace the wire that is inside the tank that connects to the fuel pump it is a lead wire and breaks somtimes causing it to have contact and loose contact..hope this helps keep me updated
2001 Ford Taurus V6-3.0L DOHC VIN S Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL 1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Clean the area around the fuel pump mounting flange. 3. Using the special tool, remove the fuel module retaining ring.(Screwdriver and hammer) 4. Remove the fuel delivery module from the fuel tank. CAUTION: The fuel delivery module must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm, filter, and convolute hoses. INSTALLATION 1. To install, reverse the removal procedure. NOTE: A stop should be felt when aligning the raised arrow on top of the fuel tank delivery module to the dot on the fuel tank.
The first thing I would check is the wiring "boot" in the driver-side door. Open the door all the way and pull the boot back as best you can, reveling the wiring bundle. Check to see if there are any wires that may be broken. From the constant flexing they go through, this is a common problem on many different vehicles. If one (or more) of the wires is broken, it will need to be soldered back together and re-insulated. I prefer to use heat-shrinkable tubing, but a few layers of electrical tape might be ok, too. Let me know if this helps. If not, let's go to the next step! :)
First of all, the fuel pump is generally located in the fuel tank, not always though. Yours probably is, in did not research it. The fuel electric fuel pump turns on only when the ignition key switch is turned to the start position and then left on. A series of one or two relays along with a pressure monitor in the fuel rail delivery system may or not cycle it on and off depending on design. Enough of that. I suggest that you remove the spark plugs to see if they are oil/heavy cabon deposits.If so, professional attention is reguired. One more thing you could try is replacing the spark plug wires. the may be old/worn out/damage. This would give the engine spark a stronger spark,if worn and also replace the spark plugs.
I think it's called Christine. Allthough, volvos aren't without their electrical problems. However, if a 'recall' was neccesary before, I would go straight back to the dealer. Quickly, before she does something else! Good luck with that.