Engine dies and eventualy re-starts - Not Temp Related
Symptom is as if ignition were simply turned off, although re-start may take minutes or days. There is no obvious link to air or engine temperature. All wires and connections look good. After electrical check, started thinking fuel. I have replaced Pump relay, fuel filter, in-tank fuel pump, and (when runing) fuel pressure is good.
It might run for days with no problem, then die twice in an hour ... and no telling when it will "magically" decide to start right up with the turn of the key. I'm going crazy. A friend suggested fuel return line or some sort of sensor detecting engine rotation exists before ignition?
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There are many things that can contribute to this problem. It sounds like it may be ignition related. Possibly an ignition control module or ignition coil. The check engine light coming on while driving is the key to finding the problem. The light comes on when the computer finds a problem and will then store it in its memory. Have the codes checked for what the computer has found to be at fault and with a little diagnostics, should lead you to the problem
Does the car loose power before stalling or does it simply die without warning? If it loses power first, you're likely looking at a fuel pump or fuel system problem. If it just dies, you probably have an ignition problem. Does the check engine light come on before it dies?
This is a tough one something like this should be handled with a diagnostic tool. Seeing that your temperature gauge is pined when the engine is cold, your temperature sender could be sending false readings back to the computer, although your engine is equipped with the separate temperature sender for the engine control module. I once repaired a problem with the ignition coil, it would fail when hot, and start working again when it cooled down. This solution is really shot in the dark, I would pick up a diagnostic reader, they're not that expensive. GOOD LUCK
Preliminary Checks Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:
All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity.
All related electrical connectors and wiring harnesses for faults (Wiggle Test).
Check the throttle linkage for a sticking or binding condition.
Air Intake system for restrictions (air inlet tubes, dirty air filter, etc.).
Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom.
Turn the key to off. Unplug the MAP sensor connection and restart the engine to recheck for the idle concern. If the condition is gone, replace the MAP sensor.
Test 2: Rough, Low or High Idle Speed Condition (Continued) Test 2 Chart
Step Description: Verify the rough idle or stall Does the engine have a warm engine rough idle, low idle or high idle condition in P or N-
Go to Step 2.
Fault is intermittent. Return to the Symptom List and select another fault.
Step Description: Verify idle speed & timing Verify the base timing is within specifications Verify that the base idle speed is set properly Are the timing and idle speed set properly-
Go to Step 3.
Set the base idle speed and timing to the specifications and then retest for the symptom.
Step Description: Check AIS / IAC Operation Check the AIS or IAC motor operation Inspect the AIS/IAC housing in throttle body for restricted passages. Clean as needed. Set the parking brake, block the drive wheels and turn the A/C off. Install the Scan Tool. IAC Motor Tester - Turn the key off and then connect the IAC tester to the IAC valve. Start the engine and use the IAC tester to extend and retract the IAC valve. ATM Test - Start the engine. Use the tool to change the speed from min-idle to 1500 rpm. Did the idle speed change as commanded-
Install an Aftermarket Noid light and check the operation of the PCM and AIS or IAC motor circuits. Check the motor for signs of open or shorted circuits. Replace the IAC motor or PCM as needed or make repairs to the IAC motor wiring. If all are okay, go to Step 4.
If the AIS/IAC motor passages are clean and engine speed did not change as described when the AIS/IAC motor was extended and retracted, replace the AIS/IAC motor. Then retest for the condition.
Step Description: Check/compare PID values Connect Scan Tool & turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool. Verify the P/N switch input in gear and Park. Check the O2S operation with a Lab Scope. Are all PIDs within normal range-
Go to Step 5. Note: An IAC motor count of over 80 indicates the pintle is extended and an IAC count of (0) indicates the pintle is retracted.
One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom.
Step Description: Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system-
Make repairs as needed
Go to Step 6.
Step Description: Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system-
Make repairs as needed
Go to Step 7.
Step Description: Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System-
Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom.
Go to Step 8.
Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...
I had the same problem with my accord years ago and it turned out to be that the ignition module would die whenever it got hot and then start working again when it cooled off. It is located inside the distributor and costs a bit less than a whole new distributor. I changed the entire distributor, to be sure all the ignition components were new and would not fail again for a while.
The 4.3 engine has a reputation for weak crankshaft position sensor mounted in the lower front of the timing cover that will cause this symptom.The ignition coil and secondary ignition lead from coil to distributor cap can also be problematic.
EPC refers to the drive by wire system. This system, generally speaking, encompasses the throttle pedal and its position sensors (it needs to know where your gassin' foot is) and the throttle body.
Most likely, the EPC light and its associated faults for this scenario are a symptom, not the problem. Meaning the actual root cause is causing the no-start/no crank issue AND fault codes related to the EPC system.
And the most likely root cause is an ignition switch, NOT the engine speed sensor.
With a bad engine speed sensor, the car will still crank all damn day (or until the battery dies) but the car won't start.
If you get a no-crank issue, and then it eventually starts either with or without an EPC light, again, the most likely problem is the ignition switch. Not the starter, not the battery (though the battery proper and the cable connections must be perfection itself to rule them out.) You can get these issues with a visually perfect but still faulty battery connection.
54 kia serento emission control system malfunction light has eventualy come on previosly the car cut out twice once last month plus once 9 weeks ago when towing caravan. thinking itwas something to do with electrics on van