Question about 1991 Ford Explorer

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Engine dies and eventualy re-starts - Not Temp Related

Symptom is as if ignition were simply turned off, although re-start may take minutes or days. There is no obvious link to air or engine temperature. All wires and connections look good. After electrical check, started thinking fuel. I have replaced Pump relay, fuel filter, in-tank fuel pump, and (when runing) fuel pressure is good.

It might run for days with no problem, then die twice in an hour ... and no telling when it will "magically" decide to start right up with the turn of the key. I'm going crazy. A friend suggested fuel return line or some sort of sensor detecting engine rotation exists before ignition?

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Ignition module is located on the back of the alternator

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

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Look for an ignition module on the side of the distributor ---flat grey in color--has 2 special bolts---- 5,5 mm----ther is a special tool & its cheap

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

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Here are some tests you can try. The list is generic and you may have tried some of these already. It sounds like a vacuum line issue to me. For other info try this website:

Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...

Preliminary Checks
Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:
  1. All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity.
  2. All related electrical connectors and wiring harnesses for faults (Wiggle Test).
  3. Check the throttle linkage for a sticking or binding condition.
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  5. Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom.
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Test 2: Rough, Low or High Idle Speed Condition (Continued)
Test 2 Chart
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Toyota corolla, engine seized


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After letting my blazer sit over night it will not start in the morning? I've had it in the shop for two months and they can not figure out the issue. They've determined that if they hook it up to...


The 4.3 engine has a reputation for weak crankshaft position sensor mounted in the lower front of the timing cover that will cause this symptom.The ignition coil and secondary ignition lead from coil to distributor cap can also be problematic.

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sounds like it could have ignition module failing,also possibly coil starting to go.I seen same problem on 92 hatchback,put module and coil on and runs fine.goodluck...

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Most likely, the EPC light and its associated faults for this scenario are a symptom, not the problem. Meaning the actual root cause is causing the no-start/no crank issue AND fault codes related to the EPC system.

And the most likely root cause is an ignition switch, NOT the engine speed sensor.

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If you get a no-crank issue, and then it eventually starts either with or without an EPC light, again, the most likely problem is the ignition switch. Not the starter, not the battery (though the battery proper and the cable connections must be perfection itself to rule them out.) You can get these issues with a visually perfect but still faulty battery connection.

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