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FIRST OF ALL WEAR CLEAN GLOVES BECAUSE YOU HANDLING HALOGEN BULBS IF OILS FROM YOR HANDS GET ON BULB IT WILL BLOW THEM.TO GET TO BULBS YOU HAVE TO REMOVE HEADLIGHT HOUSING YOU HAVE TO REMOVE 2 TOP BOLTS SECURING HEADLIGHT HOUSING TO THE RADIATOR SUPPORT THEN YOU HAVE TO REMOVE RETAINING NUTS SECURING THE INNER END OF THE HEADLIGHT HOUSING FROM BEHIND THE RADIATOR SUPPORT.YOU NEED A MANUAL TO SEE WHERE YOUR HEADLIGHT SECURING BOLTS LOCATED.
Locate and remove the power
steering reservoir from behind the driver's side headlight assembly.
Pull straight upward, sliding it off its mount and set aside for access
to the headlight bulb. Make sure you keep it upright so it does not
Locate and remove the electrical connector from the back of the bulb. Depress the locking tab to release it and pull the connector down, removing it from the bulb.
the bulb counterclockwise ¼-turn then pull the bulb straight out of the
headlight assembly. Insert a new bulb into the headlight assembly and
turn it ¼-turn clockwise to lock it in place.
the electrical connector by plugging it into the bottom of the bulb.
Push the connector in until the locking tab engages the bulb, securing
it to the bulb.
Slide the power steering pump reservoir onto its mount.
You're right, its not that easy. I just did mine on a 2003 - I35 when the dealership told me it would cost approx. $220 for the bulb and 1 hour shop labour to repair(about $350 Cdn when all is said and done). The required bulb is a D2R-35W. Your local parts dealers in Canada will have it for $125-$150. I was told NOT to disconnect the battery as this may impact some default electronic settings which will then require a reset. Here are the steps:
- the headlight assembly must be removed as you need to get access to the back of it which is impeded by the battery on the driver side and the washer fluid/ coolant resevoirs on the passenger side. There are 3 bolts which hold the assembly in place. The first 2 are visible and easy to remove. There is also a snap on clip at the bottom of the assembly which disengages with a little pulling. The 3rd bolt is tucked up under the fender and is a real doozie. Ideally, you can hoist the vehicle and remove the inside wheel well covers to access the bolt. In my case, I was able to access the bolt by peeling back the wheel cover enough to fit my hand in and blindly finding the bolt while on my back. It was corroded and sheered off when I was finally able to access it(10mm closed wrench) but dont worry as the 2 remaining bolts are strong enough to hold the assembly in place when re-installed. I'm sure the dealership would have done the same thing and not bothered replacing the corroded bolt as the passenger side xenon light had been replaced prior to me owning the car ( I found this out when I couldn't understand why the assembly would not come off on the driver side so I decided to remove the passenger side and lo and behold the 3rd bolt had been cut). Removing the passenger side also gave me insight where the remaining bolt on the driver's side was located.
- detaching the remaining lights and well as a plug from the assembly is very easy and now you have access the back. Remove the phillips screws on the metal housing cover and you're almost there. Turn the base socket that reads High Voltage(I was told not to worry about any voltage being present) and pull it away. The base of the bulb will now be exposed. It is held down by pressure clips. Remove the bulb and install new bulb exactly the same way that you removed the old one. Handle the new bulb by the base only and very carefully. Touching the glass part is not advisable. And that's it. Reinstall the lamp assembly minus that nasty 3rd bolt and you're good to go. Access to the back of the assembly is key. If you think you can do it without removing the lamp assembly, go right ahead. Another cautionary note is the colour of the light. You may notice that the replacement bulb colour may not be exactly the same(bluer or whiter). My replacement bulb is slightly whiter but barely noticeable. If you're fussy you may want to replace both blubs. This project should be done by someone who has relatively good handyman skills.
Position the horn to the front frame rail.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the horn bracket bolt.
Tighten Tighten the bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly,
behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator
You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam
(separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and
lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal
adjustment screws as well
your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height
from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams
and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same
bulb, only do it for the lows)
If the headlights read VOR, then
aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall.
If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.