I have a 1990 Volvo 760 Turbo sedan. I have read that when the key is turned on to start the vehicle, all the "idiot" lights on the dash are supposed to light up for a bulb check and self diagnostics. Frequently when the key is turned on, only the check engine, low oil pressure, ABS and SRS lights will illuminate, and all but the ABS light will go out when the car is started. When this happens, the alternator does not charge the battery. When I rev the engine to 2500 RPMs or greater the ABS light will go out and the alternator will start charging to about 13.8 volts, but not the 14+ volts it puts out when it is started after illuminating all of the dash lights. What is causing this to happen?
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Re: Start up self diagnostic problems.
Maybe a little corrosion on the connection from your alt? it could cause the higher resistance to make the voltage drop. the higher rpm's increase flow of electricity forcing it through the corrosion... maybe???
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The fuel injector on your vehicle not starting, When you turn the key on with the ignition on one side of the injector is ignition(+) the other side is controled by the ECM by grounding it.You vehicle is know as LH fuel system so start as the MAF (known as a mass air meter) you also have a thermo time switch. There is also a relay that controls the operating of the injector this is the suppression relay disconnect and reconnect this relay see if this will help you
1) The fuel pump could be dead. 2) The fuel pump relay (LH models it is located on the driver's side), Regina systems it is located on the coolant expansion tank. Test as follows: turn key to ON and listen for a whirring sound. NG, check the fuse, then check the relay by substitution. 3) Inside the car, the fuel injection relay could also be suspect, but unlikely. Again, check by substitution.
Remember that the fuel pump relay can sometimes fail because of the solder joints making it intermittent. Do not attempt to short across it without the pinouts for the relay - it could destroy the computer outputs along with the computer itself.
You should see a brief stream of gas doing the key test - along with a click of the relay as well with the fuel pump filter disconnected. If all tests good, remove the cover (sedan models) and check the connections in the trunk. On wagon models it is accessed by way of the foldout in the trunk area, then remove the inspection cover, if needed.
I have the same car and had the same problem. The inside air intake for the heater system is located above the passenger's feet. An empty plastic bag got sucked in there and kept the door from moving properly. I had to take off a few panels, then one on the vent. Once I removed the bag, no problem.
I first bought a 1990 volvo turbo 760. I ABSOLUTELY LOVED THIS VEHICLE! it was rear wheel drive and VERY easy to work on. it was a BLAST to drive and blow 5.0 mustangs off the road with a 4 cyllinder. I loved driving that car so much I bought a 1998 S70 Volvo (kept the 760 model). turns out I paid ALOT MORE for just another toyota camary with a Volvo nameplate. I didnt keep it long. it just wasnt the same. the interior started falling apart from day one.
I know the dissapointment... if it were me I would not spend any money on the alarm system. but if I did I would get the aftermarket version installed.
PLEASE dont let the timing belt break on this car!!!!! it wont be the same as your old one! it will be $4000 damage to the engine if it breaks. change it out early!
Maybe bad Power Stage/Inquiry:driving down the highway at @ 60mph with 1/4 tank of gas in 100 degree temp inwell kept 84 760 Turbo; car just dies, engine turns over but will notstart] [Response:] Well, when my '84 760 Turbo died for no apparentreason as you describe, it was in the freezing dark, going over Donner Pass.Everything on the car worked except no spark and the engine wouldn't run. It turned out to be the ignition module, which is mounted on the inner driver'sside fender well, above the battery, close to where someone else mentioned theballast resistor was located. It's easy to get to and replace. Ifthat turns out to be the culprit, shop around before buying the new part. Volvo dealers charge several hundred $$$ for this thing, but I found one froman independent parts distributor for about $90 - the identical part madeby BOSCH with the same part number on it.