Question about 1988 Chevrolet C/K 3500

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Park lamp circuit problem

I, am working on a 1989 k3500 and the park lamp fuse keeps blowing up. any suggustions would be helpful

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Replace with circuit breaker so it will reset itself. But seriously look at areas that may have damaged by blunt force. Or pinched. A real bad idea is to by-pass the fuse and watch for smoke. If you actually do this don't do it for very long or you may have a fire.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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12V power passes through 15A fuse 33 (the one that keeps blowing?) in the battery junction box and on to the main light switch. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the park filaments of the dual park/turn lamps. These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.

The main light switch gets its 12V input from 7.5A fuse 11 in the central junction box and the same 15A fuse (33) identified above. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the instrument panel dimming module and module output is applied to the panel illuminating lamps.These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.

The input to fuse 33 is hot all the time so should read 12V. If you read 12V at the TAN/WHT connection with the fuse out, something is definitely not right. I'm sure you have noted that the fuse is common to the non-functioning circuits you mentioned.

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2004 jeep grand cherokee laredo keeps blowing the fuse for the parking lights and taillights


If it "keeps" lowing the fuse, there can be only one reason for it...you "keep" replacing the fuse without diagnosing the circuits to find out WHY the fuse is blowing in the first place.
When a fuse blows, there is a reason for it. If you do not find the reason and correct it, the fuse will continue to blow.

Please also review this article: Where's The Fuse?

With all of that said, the first thing I would check is all of the light bulbs. Sometimes the bulbs get really hot and melt inside and it causes the metal contacts in the bulbs to touch each other and short the circuit out. This is especially true if you can replace the fuse and everything seems to work ok for a while. They will all work until the offending bulb gets hot and "POOF" there goes the fuse again.

This condition can be hard to diagnose since the short circuit usually goes away as soon as the bulb cools off for a few seconds. In cases like this, what I usually recommend to save time and money is to replace all of the bulbs.

If it is fuse #6 (15 Amp) in the Central Junction Block that keeps blowing, it only powers the tail lamps, licence plate lamps, front park lamps and the front side marker lamps. The cost of replacing all of these bulbs is a LOT cheaper than an hour of diagnostic time at most shops. If this does not fix the problem, then you will have to trace all of the wires going to all of these bulbs to find out which one is shorting and where it is shorting. This could turn out to be very time-consuming and expensive, but at least, you will have eliminated the likelyhood that it is caused by a bulb.

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it is likely that you have a short circuit somewhere,either in the wiring or one of the lamps you will have to check the wiring & lamps to try & find the fault.....hope this helps......cheers.

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If you have a trailer harness, make sure it isn't shorted out under vehicle. Have also seen front parking lamp harnesses rubbed through on radiator core support.

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