sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Make sure the heater core is in the open position by using the shut off valve and turning it to open. next, you may have a malfunction in the direction door the directs the air flow in the dash. a lever may have become lose or separated. may be a bad servo motor not directing the door to move to the heater position. i would start by checking that shut off valve first on the heater core.
Your problem is a faulty heater control valve. The design used on these vehicles allows for hot water to flow constantly and compete with the evaporator as there is no blender door. You have to replace the valve and possibly the control head. Meanwhile, you can bypass the valve to have cold air
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Have you refilled any other car or truck air cond systems before? Does your fill hose have a measurement gauge? Is the air compressor coming on while you are trying to refill? If you are unsure about the compressor coming on, you should have the system inspected...most shops will look at and estimate for free. Hope this helps.
first thing is you want to crank vehicle and turn on a/c to max,then look under hood at your compressor to see if has enguaged or turned on.if it is on and the compressor is working,you may have to get it vacumed down and recharged.note if you havent had it serviced or recharged lately then you may have other probs like a leak,if your compressor is turning on then kicking out ,its just low on freon,if it has not come on at all when you turn a/c on max ck your fuse and relay.if they are good and it still dont come on you may have to take it to auto shop and they can vacume it down and refill freon,or possible bad compressor,hope i helped you not confused you
Buy one or two cans of R134 (synthetic freon) with an attached pressure gauge/hose adapter to refill the refrigerant. Run engine with fan on high and AC on coldest temperature. Then remove the tiny blue plastic cap from the L or LOW pressure access point (located left of the engine) and recharge your system, checking gauge often. Let it run for 15 mins to circulate thoroughly. You can buy another refill can minus the adapter if needed, depending on how much of the original 27.4 ounces remained.
There are some 18 and 12 oz cans with Tinted Dyes for detecting leaks, some with Leak Sealants, some for High Mileage, and even Premium for 50% Faster cooling. It's as easy as filling a tire with Fix-a-Flat.
Source: Just fixed a 2004 Mitsubishi Galant LS with a flashing AC light and now I'm FREEZING.
Sounds like the oriffec tube on the front coils is blocked,. Going to have to open the system, clean the oriffice and then refill. Of course when you open the system you need to flush the lines, what ever clogged it the first time could still have contaminates in the lines and cause it to fail all over again.
look on bottom of radiator on the drives side of the car. Using a large philips screw driver turn srcrew counter clockwise until coolant begins to drain. afterwards. close screw and refill 50/50 water to antifreeze.