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There is a vent door that switches the intake air from outside air to inside air. (fresh vs recirculating). The vent door in some dodges break and fall down over the vent air intake, just above the fan. You can take the three fan motor screws out and reach up inside. You should be able to feel the broken vent door laying, covering the intake hole. You can try to tape it up, screw it up, or some other way of fastening it in place. I tried tape, but here in az, the heat got to it and it fell back over the intake hole. I removed it entirely. Now I cannot select fresh or recirc, but it blows hard again. The alternative is paying the dealer 700-900 to repair it. Good luck.
One of the Actuators for the doors inside your dash that controls and diverts air might not be working correctly. You may have to either replace the Actuator or Replace the A/C Heater Control. Your vehicle does not come with a Cabin Air Filter.
Sounds like a vacuum activated switch. Your engine vacuum is used to open and close little doors in your vents. If a hose is loose or disconnected or the electronic controls that tell the switch to let vacuum thru is not working, no air will reach your defroster vent at the windshield. Does the switch that controls Vent, Heat (sends to the floor), AC and MAX AC do anything at all? If they do, you may have a specific switch problem. If you switch from Vent to MAX AC the sound of the air flow should be much louder. If the switch isnt changing where the air blows, it is leading you to the problem. Either the switch is bad or the supply of vacuum to the switch is not there whether it is a loose vacuum hose or a disconnected one. Happens often when aftermarket stereos are installed and the installer disconnects something either by accident or forgets to reconnect it.
Unless you have symptoms of over-heating, I rather doubt that your water pump is a problem. I recall that my water pump had a metal impeller (1992 C900); I haven't heard of a plastic impeller on a Saab pump before. (Most pump failures are the bearing seal, and the pump leaks coolant) If your temp gauge is slightly low (and was OK before) I'd rule out water pump issues.
You might have one or more of the following issues:
did you use a Saab thermostat? The Saab stat has three stages (no flow to rad - cold; flow to rad and heater core - normal operation; and no flow to heater core, full flow to rad - overheating) that most after market stats don't.
did you use a low temp stat? this opens at about 82 deg (rather than 89 deg), and will run cooler during the winter, hence you gauge will show lower than the mid point. The big benefit is that your engine won't overheat during the summer (a very good thing!) with the low temp stat.
has your rad and heater core been flushed recently? If the heater core is obstructed flow will be reduced and the heater will run cool. Feel the rad and heater hoses when your engine is warm; if heater hose is much cooler than rad hose with heater temp set to max, then core flow is likely restricted, or valve is not moving much from the shut position.
is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
Lastly, the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!
see http://townsendimports.com/Web/cooling_system_folder/thermostatreplacement.htm for flushing and stat replacement info
I would say that the control unit isnt switching properly,from the mode button moving the vents air flow direction,best bet is to try and swap a mates one and see if the mode changes the airflow to the main vents,it may be the unit isnt allowing the switching,i think theyre vacuum controlled
Most likely cause is a vacuum leak under the hood. The blower door is vacuum driven and controls air flow inside the car. A vacuum leak will cause the door to malfunction and not direct the air where you want it. Check the vacuum lines under the hood, starting at the firewall and working backwards with the air on and look and listen for an air leak.