Minor accident with driver side front wheel damage, lower control are bent, upon attempting to remove the control arm the front 4" fastener bolt will turn but not screw out or tighten back in. Is there a nested nut on the inside the subframe housing that may have broke loose from its weld and is prohibiting the removal or tightening ? How can I get this bolt out without a subframe rebuild? Any sugestions ?
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According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure: NOTE
do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.
WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward. Over-extension of the halfshaft joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the halfshaft joint.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Use extreme care to not damage the ball joint boot seal.
Lower arm ball joint nut and pinch bolt. Discard them.Lower arm from the front wheel knuckle
Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
Install or connect the following:
Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
The sway bar gives from side to side so I doubt your problem is in that. Of course it is really hard for me to pinpoint your problem without inspecting the vehicle, how hard did the vehicle hit the curb? If it hit it pretty hard and severely bent the lower control arm, I would suspect that you have some frame damage.
You need to really inspect the frame where the lower control arm mounts, it may help to look at the other side and compare it to the damaged side. You'll be looking for slight wrinkles or bends in places near where the control arm mounts or follow back and keep looking for any signs of slight signs of damage.
And, are we talking about the front, rear or both on the vehicle?
If it's the rear, the rear is weaker than the front. Follow the frame rail all the way towards the middle and look for signs of damage.
If you look closely, you should be able to find the damaged area.
It being a '94 it doesn't take much damage for your insurance to total the vehicle out, (if you happen to have full coverage insurance and file it.)
I hope this may help.
Sounds like you should have the alignment checked on an alignment machine on all 4 wheels.Once you get those readings and an expert alignment mechanic's estimate on repair,only then will you know the correct repairs needed.
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
Remove the wheel driveshaft nut and washer.
Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel driveshaft in order to protect the wheel driveshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly at this time.
Remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (RWD) or Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (4WD).
Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement (RWD) or Shock Absorber Replacement (4WD).
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the lower control arm to the crossmember and the frame bracket.
Remove the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement (RWD) or Lower Ball Joint Replacement (4WD).
Remove the lower control arm from the frame.
have fun and be careful wear always lens and gloves
The best thing to do is to take it to a local Frame and Alignment Shop and have them put the vehicle on a Frame Machine and take measurements to determine what is exactly bent before throwing money on parts you might not need.
Don't bother.If the lower control arm is cracked, it is a fair bet that the strut is bent. Even if the strut is not bent, you should have the alignment checked. The force of impact on this area to crack the arm can def be connected to other areas of extreme concern.