Minor accident with driver side front wheel damage, lower control are bent, upon attempting to remove the control arm the front 4" fastener bolt will turn but not screw out or tighten back in. Is there a nested nut on the inside the subframe housing that may have broke loose from its weld and is prohibiting the removal or tightening ? How can I get this bolt out without a subframe rebuild? Any sugestions ?
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According to Autozone.com, you must replace the whole control arm. Here is their procedure: NOTE
do not begin the removal procedure unless a new strut-to-lower arm nut, a new ball joint pinch bolt/nut and a new lower arm-to-front subframe bolt/nut are available.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Do not use a hammer to separate the ball joint from the front wheel hub and spindle.
WheelsLower arm strut nut and dished washer. Discard them.
Place the steering wheel in the unlocked position.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward. Over-extension of the halfshaft joint could result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of the halfshaft joint.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Use extreme care to not damage the ball joint boot seal.
Lower arm ball joint nut and pinch bolt. Discard them.Lower arm from the front wheel knuckle
Remove and discard the lower arm-to-front subframe bolt and nutRemove the lower arm from the vehicleTo install:
Install or connect the following:
Lower arm strut into the lower arm rear strut bushingLower arm into the front sub-frame bracketNew lower arm-to-front subframe nut and bolt. While holding the lower arm horizontal, tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-132 Nm).Ball joint stud-to-wheel hub and spindle, making sure that the ball stud groove is properly positioned.New lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 46-52 ft. lbs. 62-71 Nm).
Clean the lower arm strut threads to remove dirt and contamination.
Install the dished washer with the dished side away from the lower arm rear strut bushing.
Install the front suspension lower arm strut-to-strut nut and tighten to 85-97 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.
Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting
Raise the vehicle and suitably support by the frame allowing the control arms to hang free.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the steering gear outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the control arm.
Remove the front drive axle shaft nut and washer.
Use a suitable front hub spindle removal tool to Push the axle splines back out of the front wheel drive shaft bearing.
Remove the drive axle from the transaxle.
Drive axle joint seal protectors should be used anytime service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this could result in joint or seal failure.
Place a modified inner drive joint seal protector on the drive axle joints.
If equipped, remove the ABS wheel speed sensor jumper harness.
Remove and discard the cotter pin, then loosen the nut from the ball stud.
Remove the pinch bolt and the control arm mounting bolts, then remove the control arm from the vehicle.
Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
Remove the wheel driveshaft nut and washer.
Disengage the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel driveshaft in order to protect the wheel driveshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel driveshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly at this time.
Remove the stabilizer shaft. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (RWD) or Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (4WD).
Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement (RWD) or Shock Absorber Replacement (4WD).
Remove the nuts and bolts securing the lower control arm to the crossmember and the frame bracket.
Remove the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement (RWD) or Lower Ball Joint Replacement (4WD).
Remove the lower control arm from the frame.
have fun and be careful wear always lens and gloves
The best thing to do is to take it to a local Frame and Alignment Shop and have them put the vehicle on a Frame Machine and take measurements to determine what is exactly bent before throwing money on parts you might not need.
Please be mindful to carefully note the position of the old parts as you disassemble the suspension, then follow these steps to do the re-installation:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove and discard the tension strut-to-control arm nut, then pull off the dished washer.
When separating the control arm from the steering knuckle, do not use a hammer. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.
5. Remove and discard the control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a small prybar, spread the pinch joint slightly, then separate the control arm from the steering knuckle. A drift punch may be used to remove the bolt, but be very careful not to damage the ball joint boot seal.
Do not allow the halfshaft to move outward, or the tripod CV-joint internal parts could separate, causing failure of the joint.
6. Remove and discard the lower control arm inner pivot bolt and nut.
7. Remove the lower control arm from the frame and the tension strut.
Make sure the front washer is at the strut-to-lower control arm attachment.
8. Insert the strut into the inner bushing.
9. Position the lower control arm into the subframe bracket, using a new nut and bolt. Tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
10. Assemble the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle, making sure the ball stud groove is positioned properly. Be very careful not to damage the lower control arm seal.
11. Insert a new pinch bolt and nut, then tighten to 40-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
12. Clean the strut threads to remove dirt and/or debris.
13. Install the dished washer, with its dished side away from the control arm bushing. Install a new nut on the strut and tighten to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
14. Install the wheel and tire assembly, tightening the lug nuts to 85-105 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm), then carefully lower the vehicle.
Don't bother.If the lower control arm is cracked, it is a fair bet that the strut is bent. Even if the strut is not bent, you should have the alignment checked. The force of impact on this area to crack the arm can def be connected to other areas of extreme concern.