Where i found the ignition coil of honda accord 95 EXi, and how to replace of that?

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions--specific instructions are pasted below from Autozone.com. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

Use a test light to check for power to the coil on the black wire with a yellow stripe--see procedure below and other tests you can run. You will need a volt-ohm meter to run most of these tests.

The system used on 1990-95 Accords and 1989-95 fuel injected Preludes uses the distributor components to signal the engine computer. The ECU triggers the spark through the igniter unit and coil. This spark timing is controlled by the computer as an integrated function of the fuel management system. The distributor contains a crankshaft angle sensor and a No. 1 Cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor. Using these and other electrical inputs, the computer controls spark timing electrically.

1990-91 ACCORD
See Figure 6

1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
3. Switch the ignition ON . Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the igniter and the ignition switch.
4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test the ignition coil.
5. Turn the ignition OFF . Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire between the igniter and the ECU.

Fig. Fig. 6: Terminal identification on 1990-91 Accords

1. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the igniter.
2. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.

Coil test:
1990-91 ACCORD

See Figure 16

1. The ignition coil is contained within the distributor. With the ignition OFF , remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the screws securing the black/yellow wire and white/blue wires from the terminals. The black/yellow wire is connected to the primary positive terminal and the white/blue wire is connected to the primary negative terminal.
3. Measure resistance between the terminals. Resistance should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
4. Measure the resistance between the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. Resistance should be 12,800-19,200 ohms.

Fig. Fig. 16: Coil terminal designation on 1990-91 Accords

1. All test conditions must be met. If any test condition is not satisfied, the coil must be replaced.

If it sounds kind of like a sewing machine when you try and start it, the timing belt has probably broken and the cylinder head may have to come to replace bent valves before a new belt can be put on. This is unfortunately a common problem on older Hondas if the belt is not changed on time.

The key switch went bad in my 88 Honda DX.I found out the problem quite by accident.Try playing with the switch very carefully and see if it will start for you! Yes the engine will spin buy it will not feed the coil so it will start.Good Luck!

Spark plugs, cables, Ignition Control Module, Ignition Coil, in that order.

well seems i would normaly says its the coil but i have my fellings after reading all your info that you may have a dead short leadings to your coil, a dead ecu or a bad coil... hear is why if you replaced the relay and found 2 clicks then the system arched voltage back through the wire untill it fried your relay so i feel that your problem is after the relay, not before you will need a wireing diagram to test your wires, this is where i would start simply because its the cheapest thing to start with. once you have checked the wires if that is not it I can get you a test procidure to eliminating the ecu as the fualt I will have to have a little more info than just the modle and year... Modle, year, engine size, sohc, dohc ????
good luck let me know if you need more help

well honda's are natorious for the computers going out also check the ignition relay,fuel pump relay,make sure it is getting fule.also check the timing belt

The same thing happend to me and i to replaced the ignition coil and it fired up after a whole year of being down.

I had the same problem with my 1995 Honda Accord V6 2.7L a year ago. It was a pain to have Honda diagnose the problem because it was intermittent and every time I took my car in to the dealership they said they couldn't reproduce the problem, but the longer you wait the more frequently your tachometer will fluctuate. I finally stopped by the dealership when the tachometer was jumping and they were able to diagnose the problem. In my case there was a faulty resistor in the ignition coil, but the entire ignition coil needs to be replaced. I don't know anything about cars but I know this fixed my problem. I went directly though Honda's service center so I know they charged me more than an independent repair shop but I'm looking at my invoice now and I paid $150 for the ignition coil and $200 for labor. After Honda diagnosed the problem I searched for "1995 honda accord ignition coil tachometer" and found that other people had the same problem and replacing the ignition coil was the fix. Hope this helps.

You need to discharge the AC system and remove the evaporator to replace the expansion valve. No two way about it.

No need to remove the dash