Sometimes I am able to drive my mazda for at least 3 miles and then it'll cut off in the middle of the street. Other times I start up the car and the oil, brake and check engine light will come on. When I turn it off and wait for a little bit it starts up again as if nothing has happen. I took it to a repair shop and they could not find anything wrong, but they did replace the spark plugs. I need help, Sybil
My girl friends daughter had asimilar problem took it to experts and told her it would cost thousands because gear box was playing up orso. ihad a drive ran perfect then box started sliping after few clicks and then stoped. all it was is no oil in gear box which shuts of engine when gets over heated so filled to marks and orso tighten pan up on bottom of gear box because bolts where finger tight and losing oil now it runs perfect never misses abeat and box changes perfect ps it was a V6
Assuming these are separate problems I would suggest looking at the alternator as to why the car stalls while driving. This can be tested fairly easily to see if it's working properly.
Second, if you are seeing multiple trouble lights like oil/check engine that you usually don't get, and the problem goes away after a few minutes there may be something wrong with the computer, it may be going bad.
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ENGINE STALL WHILE DRIVING COULD BE STOPPED UP FUEL FILTER OR FAULTY FUEL PUMP.IDLE SPEED TOO LOW.OR IGNITION COIL HAS A LOOSE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION.FAULTY IGNITION MODULE.BAD PLUGS AND WIRES. I WOULD DO A LITTLE TUNE UP.CHANGE FUEL FILTER AND AIR FILTER.IF SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES HAS OVER 30000 MILES ON THEM I WOULD CHANGE THEM.ALSO FUEL FILTER IF OVER 30000 MILES.CHANGE IT CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS. TO TROUBLE SHOOT CAR I WILL DO A LITTLE TUNE UP FIRST TO MAKE EVERYTHING TOP NOTCH ON THE ENGINE BEFORE I GO TO NEXT LEVEL.BUYING NEW PARTS DONT NEED.GET VECHICLE SCANNED WITH A SCANNER. THAT WILL ALSO PIN POINT PROBLEM QUICKLY.BUT DO THE LITTLE TUNE UP FIRST IF EVERYTHING PAST 30000 MILES MARK.SCAN VECHICLE FOR FAULTY IDLE SPEED CODES OR FAULTY IGNITION MODULE CODE THEY WILL COST MORE MONEY TO FIX.PARTS HIGH.
u followed the pin point tests for these codes you had? did you disconnect the battery after you installed new parts? sounds like u have not fixed the problem, you do have a repair manual correct? did you check the intake air hose for cracks on the bottom which will cause a stall? did you clean the idle speed control valve and the throttle valve, they can also cause this stall, never adjust the the hard stop screw, it will chnage nothing and cause all kinds of other problems, it is not the problem, most likely the intake is sludged up clean it and then disconnect battery for 5 minuter, driv about 50 miles and problem should clear up, if it doesn't you have other issues, recheck for codes.
I have a 1997 626 2.0L 5speed when im driven it like rev limits cuts out around 3500-4000rpm, and when i rev it up and past 4000rpm it stalls, anyone have a idea whats wrong??? thanks i just replaced the crank sensor and egr and still. good power put cuts out
CHECK ALL OF THE HOSES, LOOK FOR ANY LEAKS OF ANTIFREEZE,CHECK THERMASAT SOMETIMES THEY CAN GET STUCK AND WON'T OPEN SO IT CLOSES UP AND DOESN'T ALLOW ANTIFREEZE TO PASS THREW THE MOTOR AND DOESN'T REACH THE TEMPERTATURE REQUIRED,TRY FLUSHING THE RADIATOR,IF NOT CHECK OUT YOUR WATERPUMP MAYBE ITS NOT WORKING,TRY GETTING FIX SOON IF IT OVERHEATS TO MUCH IT CAN BLOW YOUR HEADGASKET