Have 97 nissan 240SX that I have just replaced the slave cylinder and master cylinder and tried to bleed it for a bout an hour with my dad and still no pressure please help me.and yes I forgot to tell you that both of bleeders. hose and the slave cylinder on the bottom of car are new they have not ben used.and my name is David .
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Re: nissan 240SX 1997 SE model
Depending on the system, bleeding hydraulic lines can be a real pain.
I'm not a mechanic but have 'been there, done that' for decades and have found (not discovered, since I'm sure they were around before) methods that have worked well for me.
Try this; purchase a clear, flexible line with a diameter that slips firmly over the bleeder fitting and long enough to reach from master reservoir to slave fitting with enough length to loop a generous stretch over your windshield.
Use wire or a weight to keep the free (reservoir) end submerged in the fluid.
Open the slave bleeder a little (half-turn or so).
You currently have clean fluid in your system so there shouldn't be any contaminents in the line.
You MUST keep the reservoir topped up so no additional air can work into the system.
I have used this for years to observe the bubbles passing through the loop and have simply, patiently, pumped until the air is exhausted and nothing but fluid is visible in the clear tubing.
Once you see no air of substance anymore, close (tighten) the slave cylinder bleeder.
Don't over tighten, they can snap off.
You will waste some fluid but it isn't significant and well worth getting the job done.
Obviously, the same method can be applied to the brake system too if you buy enough tubing.
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one way to bleed it is by pulling the piston like slave cylinder with the rod out of the transmission and by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder several times, make sure you have plenty of dot3 brake fluid in the clutch master slave before you do this. by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder it acts like doing a brake job it bleeds the air out into the clutch master slave cylinder and sucks in the break fluid getting rid of all air in the system. thats the only way to bleed those systems seeing as they are sealed systems
can you see leaking hydraulic fluid anywhere? The principle is very simple The master cylinder behaves like a syringe. You press the clutch pedal and fluid is forced by the master cylinder plunger to the slave cylinder mounted on the side of the gear box. The slave cylinder is like a syringe in reverse so that the fluid pushed into it from the master cylinder causes the plunger to extend into the clutch/flywheel bell housing and engage with the end of the clutch bearing release lever. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw on the top of it to release any air that has got into the system.
Ensure that reservoir is full and ensure that a sheet of polythene has not been left under the screwed on cap: sometimes done to prevent excessive fluid loss whilst working on hydraulic systems. Make sure that the hydraulic unions at the master and slave cylinders are nice and tight. make sure all bled points are similarly tight. The only possible remaining places for air ingress (and by default fluid egress) are the cylinder fluid seals on the pistons... get under and look for leaks when you can get a colleague to pump the clutch repeatedly
Check if the slave cylinder is being activated by the operation of the master cylinder (also ensure no fluid leaks are present).
If slave cylinder not moved, you still have a faulty master cylinder or slave cylinder - or the hydraulic system still has air.
If the slave cylinder is operating normally and there is still no return pressure from the clutch pressure plate, you have a faulty pressure plate or throughout lever mechanism.
Drain or bleed? The bleeder nipple is on the slave cylinder. Fill master cylinder,leave the cap loose, open the bleed nipple at the slave cylinder,and let gravity do the rest. whe vo more aie bibbles come out and it drips steady. Close the bleeder, top of the master cylinder and you are done.
if there is a kit made for it and u are familiar with how to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder then no problem unless the cylinder bore is pitted or badly scored, in that case it is not rebuild-able. U will need a cylinder hone to do this, available at any parts store for about $10
CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS STARTING AT MASTER CYLINDER THEN CHECK SLAVE CYLINDER AT G/BOX IF OK THEN BLEED CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER OR SLAVE CYLINDER MIGHT HAVE WORN SEALS IN THEM THOUGH SO PARTS MIGHT NEED REPLACED.
Did you bleed the system fully after changing the cylinders? Those are the two main components that cause such problems. If you bled the system out, and it still has the problem, then you most likely have a ruptured line somewhere that is allowing air into the system.