Question about 1995 Saab 900
I've inherited a 1995 SAAB 900 SE convertible, 2 litre turbo. The clutch engages in less than an inch off the floor. My brother suggested checking the fluid level but I cannot figure where & how to do that.
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Posted on Jun 26, 2008
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Alot of great info on this site about you car, take a look.
The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a pressure bleeder. You apply pressure to the reservoir with air and loosen the nut on the line to the master first. Second, make sure solid fluid with no air comes out of the line. Third, tighten the line back down at the master cylinder while the fluid is still coming out. Follow the same procedure to bleed the slave as well. The Saab clutch is hydraulically operated and self-adjusting. The unit compresses a helper spring, master cylinder, connection pipe and slave cylinder. The master cylinder is fitted in the bulkhead and connected to the clutch pedal by a piston rod. The slave cylinder is an integrated unit fitted in the clutch body that compresses the cylinder housing, divided piston and release bearing. The slave cylinder cannot be taken apart (93 only). The pressure from the master cylinder passes to the seal, which then presses the piston and release bearing against the pressure plate. A spring fitted between the cylinder housing and the release bearing ensures that the release bearing is always in contact with the pressure plate, reducing the play in the clutch pedal. To prevent dirt from entering parts of the piston and seals, there is a rubber below fitted between the cylinder and the release bearing. A hydraulic line with snap-on couplings at both ends connects the master cylinder and slave cylinder damping pipe (to prevent pedal vibration).
It looks like your clutch fluid is also your brake fluid, it uses a slave cylinder off of your brake master cylinder.
The clutch master cylinders on Saab 900 cars prior to 1998 were all cable driven and not hydraulically operated. They were not nearly as reliable as the 1998 and up clutch systems. All 93 cars have the hydraulic versions. See removal instructions below: STEP 1 Remove the brake fluid with a turkey baster or similiar STEP 2 Remove the alarm connector (if equipped) and move the fuse box out of the way STEP 3 Remove the hose to the clutch master and the clip that holds it STEP 4 Remove the hose and the clutch bracket right bolt STEP 5 Remove the lower dash below the steering wheel and the wheel base cover STEP 6 Remove the floor vent and the switch to the pedal STEP 7 Remove the door vent duct and the cable ties that secure it STEP 8 Remove the clutch pedal locking clip and pin to the master STEP 9 Remove clutch pedal nut STEP 10 Remove the bracket that holds the clutch master STEP 11 Remove the clutch master nuts and remove the clutch master STEP 12 Refit in reverse
Hope this helps
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
Step1 Find the clutch master cylinder's reservoir. It looks like the brake master cylinder's reservoir, but it's smaller and usually closer to the driver's side fender. Step2 Clean the top of the reservoir with a rag so debris won't fall in when you open the cap. Step3 Remove the cap and check the level. The cap may screw off counterclockwise or may pop off. There may be low and full indicators. If not, the full level should reach the top of the reservoir. Step4 Add brake fluid if the reservoir is low, using a funnel to avoid any spills. Step5 Replace the cap. Step6 If the fluid was low, recheck it weekly for a few weeks to make sure your car doesn't have a leak.
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Posted on Jun 27, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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