Question about 1989 Ford F 350
Doesnt want to start . will check all I know to check and still nothing . Then couple hours after I calm down go try again and will start , shut it down and back to not starting, Have changed filter , checked wiring and don' know what else to do. please help .
Hey buddy,,, does ur 350 have a WAIT TO START LITE,,,turn key on a start lite should lite wait till this lite goes out before cranking,,,engine should crank over about 5-6 turns and it should fire up,,,if it don't start , turn key off then on, lite should come on,wait until u hear the solenoid start 2 click, turn key off ,turn on again, lite will lite ,wait till u hear the solenoids click, turn 2 start,if it doesn't start rite up turn key off, grab a test lite 12 v,[ check ur glow plugs,] test lite, place clamp end on positive post of battery ,pull wire off of the individual glow plug, put the point of the test lite on the glow plug that the wire was attached to, if u have no lite the glow plug is no good,if the lite is dim the plug is on the way out ,if the lite is bright the plug is good, move 2 all 8 glow plugs,if there is 1 bad 1 the rest will not function proper,if u r going 2 replace any of them make SURE that they r the rite 1's cause there is 2 types[ don't let the parts guy tell u different[the wire end should not have 2 b altered 2 get it 2 plug on 2 the glow plug,take a sample if u need 2 replace,check the wire end that they r the same,,, tighten snug don't over do it, go through the steps above 2 start, should fire rite up , if it doesn't and u don't hear the solenoids click the controller is the next step, u should have 12 v at the + on ur controller,,, if not ur wiring 2 the controller is out[ fuse; wiring, ignition switch maybe at fault,if 12 v at the controller try the test lite at the glow plug terminal if this functions ur in good shape here,,,2 check and c if u have a lack of fuel[READ AND DO REAL CAREFULL]remove top of air cleaner,,a very short spurt of ether,,, 2 START,,turn the key rite over 2 start[don't activate the glow plugs as the ether may burn the tips off the glow plugs] should start immediately and stay running,,if it stalls,, try same again,,if it stalls again there is a fuel problem,,,check all lines and fittens,,check the mechanical lift pump,,, filters tight ,, bleed system,, remember those starters on these animals cost a p pot full of money so easy on the cranking time [easy on the tantrums keep asking questions and soneone will get u there,,, hope this gives u the help u need Len
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
I had this problem years ago with a super duty with the 7.3 liter diesel. You are not going to like it. I had pin holes in the cylinder walls which let coolant in when the engine was not running. The cylinder accumulates water and the piston will stop before it reaches the top. To verify that this is the problem, turn the engine backwards by hand one full revolution. If there is water in the motor, the reversing of the motor will pump it out and it will start. We had to have the motor sleeved. I hope this is not your problem, but either way, let us know what happens.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
My first question would be WHY the high pressure oil pump was replaced
in the first place! Was it not building sufficient ICP pressure? If so,
the symptom would be an engine that CRANKS, but does not start. A 6.0L
DIT engine requires 500 psi of ICP pressure (or 0.8 ICP volts) MINIMUM
in order for the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module) to "turn on" the
injectors. Since 2004 is the model year where FSA (or recall in Ford
lingo) 05E15 applies, it's not uncommon for a poorly carried out repair
on the ICP sensor connector to be the cause of engine stalling or
running rough. Just wiggling the connector on the right side valve
cover with the engine running will confirm this very quickly.
But since the symptom you describe is a CLICK but no-start, that right away tells me you probably need both batteries and/or the starter replaced. This can definitely be caused by a failed alternator, or more than likely repeated excessive cranking required by your previous failure drained out the batteries.
It's not uncommon for the TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature) sensor to fail on these 5R110W Torqshift transmissions. When that happens, the TCM "commands" harsher shifts. If the Tow/Haul light flashes, there are obviously DTCs set by the TCM. For your information, this transmission "failsafes" in fifth gear, which means 5th gear start and hold in any forward range, if the problem becomes severe enough.
HOPE THIS HELPS.
ADDED: There are TWO oil systems on your truck. The LOW pressure oil pump (driven by the crankshaft at the front of the engine) supplies the lubrication to all engine moving parts AND the HIGH pressure oil system. The purpose of the HIGH pressure oil system is to control fuel delivery at the injectors, hence the term ICP (Injector Control Pressure). The oil pressure gauge on your instrument cluster is just an ON/OFF switch, which means it only tells you whether there is pressure on the LOW pressure oil system or not. It does not tell you HOW MUCH pressure.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 11, 2012 | 1989 Buick LeSabre
Jul 28, 2012 | 1989 Volvo 740
Jul 02, 2011 | 1989 Dodge Dakota 2WD
Apr 10, 2011 | Mitsubishi Mirage Cars & Trucks
Jan 14, 2010 | 2000 Audi TT
Jan 07, 2010 | 1989 Volvo 760
2,693 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: