Question about 2004 Honda Accord

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Timing chain noisey

Injectors ceased in head timing chain rattlely

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    Noisey timing chain when started from cold

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  • Honda Master
  • 1,757 Answers

Sorry for the severe delay.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered question.
I do not know if you still need the answer, but I am going to answer it in case you still do.

It is apparent that you will have to change your Timing Belt.
Click on the following direct Link. It has the Timing Belt Diagrams with Marks for the Camshaft and Crankshaft that you will need. It also has numerous other helpful diagrams for use, including one with the adjustment for the Tensioner.

Again my apologies...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!


http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2004/make/honda/model/accord/2004_honda_accord_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

Posted on Mar 25, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Tip

How to fix a timing chain rattle on a 85-94 Toyota 22R engine


Toyota 22R 1985-94 85- Celica, P.U., Four runner.

There are two basic different 20-21-22r engines, and three different timing chain setups. The early tall block 20-22r block used a dual row chain with steel backed rubber faced guides, the 83-84 22r used a single row chain with plastic guides and short step bolts, then came the final setup, a shorter block, thinner head, combustion chamber with a large squish area, nearly flat pistons, and pear shaped exhaust ports. It has a single row chain, with plastic guides with long step bolts on the left (drivers side) and short step bolts on the right holding the guides on. On this last 22R there is high incidence of guide failure, usually starting with the long straighter left guide breaking, allowing the chain to rattle against the timing cover in the area where the coolant passes through to the water pump, eventually wearing through and letting coolant into the crankcase. Upon inspection we find the chain is loose when installed, the tensioner is close to half way out on a new engine.

If we use a right side, curved guide and
short step bolts from an 83-84 and a prestretched timing chain, it goes together tight, the tensioner is fully retracted making the whole setup have less play, and less chance to rattle and break the left guide. I've never seen this setup fail, oil leaks from using sealant around the oil ports on the right side have been tough, but using the factory gasket on this side seems to work, also the felpro with printed seal in this area seem to work well.

This is critical if the block and head have been surfaced, making the chain even looser.

Hope this helps

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