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Re: air and heater blower
If you are losing refrigerant (that vehicle uses 134a) there is a leak
somewhere. If you are not losing refrigerant, there are several things
that you can check.
You say you replaced the refrigerant twice and recharged it twice. Was
the system evacuated and recharged, or did you just use a DIY kit.?
With 134a too much is a bad as not enough, an overcharged system will
A bad expansion valve will allow system pressure to build, and will
make the compressor work harder, which would account for your feeling
that the A/C is taking power from the engine.
A bad radiator cooling fan will do the same thing. Does the radiator fan come on when you turn on the a/c?
The heater control valve could be bad, or the air mix door not working
properly, allowing the heater to be actually heating the air
conditioned air. If the a/c actually gets warmer than the outside air,
then this is what I would look for first! It may be as simple as a
vacuum leak in a control line!
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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You mean the blower motor ! It's going bad ,reach under right side of the dash an smack on the blower motor when not working an see if it starts then . If it does, bad blower motor .An go to youtube an check out a few heater blower motor trouble shooting videos.
Did you bleed your system of air???....usually a bleed screw near the thermostat housing...get allllll the air out...simetimes the heater core is at the highest oart if the system..therefore if there is air in system..thats where the air settles and no coolant will flow through the heater cire!!
its the blower motor resistor that is faulty or the blower motor resistor wire connector that has a bad connection.Wiggle the wire connector going to the resistor with the ignition switch and the fan switch in the on position and if the fan comes on then the connection is bad but, if it does'nt come on then the resistor is faulty.
If your fan is'nt working its more than likely the blower motor resistor has a bad connection.Turn the ignition and fan switches on then pull on and wiggle the connector going to the blower motor resistor it should start working.Its located on the passenger side of the heat duct and has 2 screws that mount it to the heat duct.These resistors get very hot and melt the pigtail causing it to loose their connection.
CHECK SEE IF HEATER BLOWER MOTOR WORKING, REMOVE HEATER BLOWER MOTOR HOT WIRE HEATER BLOWER MOTOR SEE IF BLOWER MOTOR WORKING BLOWER MOTOR FAULTY OR YOU HAVE FAULTY WIRING AT BLOWER MOTOR AND RESISTOR.
if the air started to work only on a few settings then the problem is your blower motor resistor if it just stopped all of a sudden then the blower motor is bad but the first thing i would check is the fuse. always check fuses first if you find a bad fuse for it and it pops rite after you put it in and turn the heater on then replace the blower motor
possible low anti freeze, air bound heater core, defective heat blend door control servo. Start with coolant level, if o.k. check hoses feeding heater core. If the lines are both hot suspect blend door servo/control unit. If only one hose hot suspect clogged/air bound core. Special bleed procedure for engine. With engine running, check for bleeder scews at upper hose mounting, open bleeder and watch for steady stream of coolant. Be careful as coolant is hot. If this does not help, disconnect hoses frm heater core when cool and blow out core with compressed air to unclog system. I hope this helps.
Sounds like the blower is not working for starters. We need to troubleshoot blower issues and once we get that straightened out, see what you have. Start with the fuse box and make sure the blower fuse is good. If you have to look further, check fuses and relays under the hood. If this is all good and the blower is still not working, it is a wiring or switch or blower motor issue. Hope this helps!