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Possibly low on refrigerant. When system is low on freon, it does not build up enough high side pressure to engage the condenser fan . When pressure is high enough. a high side pressure switch kicks on the cond. fan to maintain high side pressure. Have the system evacuated and recharged to proper level.
Definitely check your fluid level in your radiator. Top it off all the way. I've seen that happen multiple times on cars that were low on anti-freeze. If that doesn't work try replacing your thermostat. It's cheap and the easiest place to start if topping off the fluid doesn't get you fixed up.
the electric fan should switch on at a stop at idle for the condensor to disapate the heat. If the fan doesnt come on not enough air flow will keep the system hot. A low freon level will compound this issue.
Two possible problems. First the Freon level might be too low to allow the low pressure protection switch from letting electricity get to your compressor's clutch. This is just a 'most likely' reason, there can be others.
But then you definitely have a problem with the heater resistor pack that is mounted in the heater's air stream somwhere behind the glove box. This device allows for low, and medium fan speeds but needs to be cooled or else it will melt and open up electrically. When that happens you 'loose' fan speeds except for high which is 12 volts direct to the heater motor.
This year GM pickups needed the HEPA air filter but did not have one so that all manner of hay trash, leaves and you name it would plug up the air conditioner evaporator inside the cab which in turn stopped enough air flow to the heater resistor pack which causes it to fail and you wind up with no DOT required defroster AND carbon monoxide preventing air flow into the cabin. There is law and how they avoided a class action suit is beyond me but you are looking at about a hundred dollars to replace the resistor pack and heater switch too.
You might have minimum success blowing the trash out of the evaporator backwards after you take it all apart, as a passenger when you kick the 'heater', that is right where you need to go to clean out the evaporator. It's only 1/2 inch thick and on the bottom of the pile.
If you have good air flow on high then you can disregard the blowing out of the evaporator and just concentrate on getting to the resistor pack - we just changed it with the switch panel to get it all done with in one shot. There is an outside chance that fixing the resistor pack/switch will return your compressor's voltage as well, there is no telling how that switch has it's failsafes integrated.
there is a thermistor switch located in evaporator case(thin black single or 2 wires) that makes the compressor cut in and out (cycle) it monitors evaporator temperature.
check head pressures with air cond charging station or gauge set and monitor pressure on high and low side (150-200kpa on low, 1500-1800kpa on high good average depending on ambient temp) if it is low on gas due to leak this can also keep compressor running longer due to evaporator temp not reaching lowest threshhold to cut compressor out