Car idles but as soon as you accelerate it jolts and loses power and won't pass 2000 rpm. I've changed leads, distributor cap, put in fuel additive, cleaned the injectors. any suggestions will be most welcome.
My sons 1985 300zx non turbo did this. We were going to have his stereo system installed for Christmas when it started. He was so disappointed. I have thrown parts at my own vehicles but refused to do it on his. It would lunge at 2000 RPM and feel like the transmission was about to come out of it.
We discovered that three hose clamps were not tightened on top of the engine...may have been the air intake hoses but it fixed his car immediately. We first replaced a throttle sensor that changed nothing. A seasoned machanic could't even solve it.
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Looks like timing is off.
Lose the distributor cap then start and let it run to hot then
turn the distributor cap to left or right. If it change to normal
rpm. then you're good. If nothing change or just little then need to disassemble and reinstall the belt.
Sounds like the distributor is causing problems. The distributors are known to have bearing wear problems, so even if the cap is recently changed, you might need a whole new distributor. At the very least, it sounds like a tune-up may be needed: new spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap.
Also, if you have the V-6, the timing belt needs to be changed every 105,000 miles. a timing belt with stripped teeth could be causing your issues, and if the teeth are stripped it probably won't be long before the belt lets go and you completely ruin the engine. It's an interference engine, so without proper timing, the pistons can make physical contact with open valves, causing bent valves or connecting rods. At that point it is cheaper to replace the whole engine rather than tear it apart and rebuild it.
It's possible that when you installed the roller cam, you didn't properly align the cam rotation with the crankshaft (off by one gear tooth); or when you reinstalled the distributor, the same error may have occurred. Check your ignition timing on No. 1 cylinder at Top Dead Center to see if the rotor is roughly aligned with No. 1 plug wire on distributor cap.
you may be having trouble with the catalytic converter its not very hard to change
but before you do any thing take your car to auto zone or advanced auto hook it
up to the portable computer and see what the computer wants you to do its easy
to use and its free to use
I had a problem on my Nissan Xterra 2000. Symptons sound similar. In my case, it ran fine for a while and then suddenly the engine starts to stumble and lose output. At one point it did not even have enough HP to move. Irregular idling too. Thought it was water in my fuel. Bought water remover from the store and added to gas tank. Problem did not go away. Instead, "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Had to have it towed to the dealer as there was no way the engine could keep up with traffic. Dealer replaced the "Crank Position Sensor" today. Parts $33.00, Labor: $300 (about 3 hrs worth of work). Seems to work fine now but I will wait and see. Dealer also stated that Distributor bearing appears to be noisy and will need to be replaced sooner or later. I will wait for it to go before I fix that.