Question about 1996 Ford Contour

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Engine surge at very low speed car will shut off when take foot off gas pedal

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Hi

If this is only once the engine has warmed up then it could be an O2 sensor problem.

If the engine tends to hunt up and down at idle then you could have a dirty idle control valve which needs removing and cleaning out with brake cleaner or intake cleaner.

It could also be a dirty or faulty MAF sensor which will either need removing and cleaning as per the idle control valve, or renewing.

Very best regards

Geordie

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

  • Steve Adams Jun 25, 2008

    Thankyou very muchg for your rating, and good luck with the repair.



    If you have any more problems then just click ASK ME below my picture and will be glad to help.



    Regards



    Geordie

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Can i change a fiat strada gearbox to a fiat palio to lower the revs, save gas and gain a little more speed


why don't you do it , then come back and tell us how well it worked . plus the savings it got for you

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1 Answer

Car surging


Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!

May 24, 2014 | Subaru Impreza WRX STi Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Idle surge with foot on brake


If it only happens when you are pushing on the brake pedal, the power brake booster could be leaking engine vac.

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1 Answer

1983 s10 blazer low rough idle and trys to die when starting have to give it a little gas and put it into drive real quick then when slowing down keep foot on gas pedal as i also slow down with break pedal


Could be several things, a vac leak, dirty throttle body, or faulty idle air control valve.
The computer controls idle speed by how much air enters the throttle body thru the valve.
Usually a vac leak would speed up the engine unless it is causing the rough idle.

Jan 10, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1997 honda odyssey rpms go up and down while in park and trys to stall out when in gear and take foot off gas pedal


The idle speed in your car is controlled by a computer (known as the PCM), the computer controls a valve called the Air Bypass Valve, this valve and the throttle valve get full of sludge from fuel vapors and combustion "blow back", this causes the valve to stick or move slowly, this in turn causes surging (speed goes up and down) in the idle speed of the engine, it is the most common reason for idle surge on any fuel injected gas engine up to about 2004 when car makers starting using electronic throttle control. To clean the idle speed control valve and the throttle valve do the following.
To correct this problem Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (it is made by CRC) from the local auto parts store, NEVER USE CARB CLEANING SPRAY, IT DESTROYS THE ANTI-STICK TEFLON COATING, spray it into the air intake through the throttle body of the engine until you have used about half the can, you will need to hold the idle up while you do this, it will try to stall, after this shut the engine down and disconnect the Negative (-) battery cable for 5 minutes. The intake is now clean, if you continue to have the idle speed control problems you may need to seek the help of a professiona

Jan 31, 2012 | Honda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 97 astro awd chevrolet and when i puy my foot on the gas peddle i hear air coming from the dash board


The part is called the vaccum booster control unit its the power assist for your brakes and is feed from the engine main vacuum . How do the brakes work do you get a surge when you shut the vehicle off while shifting to park with your foot still on the brake pedal The gas pedal would have nothing to do with a vacuum noise from the dash. The olny thing it could would be the booster control unit is leaking engine vacuum. The master brake cylinder it mounted to it under the hood and the brake pedal on the inside is derictly connected to it . It cost like 50 bucks if you get one from a junk yard and the brake lines don't need to be disconneced so you have 6 nuts to remove and the pedal clip for the brake pedal

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2 Answers

I purchased a 1997 chevy blazer ... looks great interior and exterior... but when I drive and stop, i have to keep 1 foot on gas pedal and one foot on break. what do i do ?


Here is the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours.

To correct this problem get a can of throttle valve cleaner (it is made by CRC) from the local auto parts store, spray it into the air intake of the engine until you have used about half the can, you will need to hold the idle up while you do this, it will try to stall, after this shut the engine down and disconnect the Negative (-) battery cable for 5 minutes. The intake is know clean, if you continue to have the stall out the idle speed control valve may be defective and requires replacement.

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1 Answer

Engine surges and runs, and is slow to increase speed when gas pedal is pressed


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Nov 05, 2010 | 1991 Buick Century

1 Answer

Car idles low, stalls after start


Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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