- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Some Fords have a pressure switch (it's round) on the end of the master cylinder for the brakes. Disconnect that switch for test purposes only. Now take it for a test drive does the cruise lock on now? If so that switch is bad. KEEP IN MIND the cruise will not kick off, when you touch the brake with that switch disconnected, DO NOT continue to drive it like that. Turn the cruise off with the "OFF" button.
If you can please look under the hood and find the Air filter, and follow that all the way to a round metal part (Throttle body) If you can see it there will be a coil,and on that coid will extrude a curved plate with a cable(throttle cable) attached to it running all the way back inward toward the back of the engine, and next to that there should be a second cable (crusie control cable). This cable is pulled on when you engage the cruise control, by a black box next to the fuse box.
If the Cruise control cable is near by try to reattach it and if it is damaged then have your dealership or some one mechanically inclinded to replace the tip ( if plastic) or replace the cable.
If that didnt help please get back to me
'03 Sport trac w/70,000 miles. Started around 60,000 mile mark with light flashing briefly, only engaging 1in 10 times. Also, I noticed slightly decreased gas mileage around the same time.
Cruise Control problem corrected itself when I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Owners manual reccomended replacing plugs and wires at 100K. Do yourself a favor and replace them early. They were very difficult to get out. I noticed arcing from wires to block and several areas of friction damage to insulation. Wrap new wires with sheathing and tie wraps to prevent friction problems in the future.
Th is is how I fixed mine! Down on the brake pedal there is a small plastic box about 1 1\2 * 1 1\2 in size. It's called the brake stop light, I think. This part disengages the cruise when the brake is pressed. Not sure on it's other uses! Remove the clip from the part where it attatches the the pedal. For more working room you can remove the plastic keeper. The box has three keepers on it. Pry them out gently to remove the top. Two of the copper pieces inside will have contacts on them about the size of a match stick head. Take them out and clean them with an eraser. This solved my problem, I hope it solves yours. Let Me KNOW!
This problem is most times caused by an open circuit in the rotating contact under the steering wheel, this part is called the clock-spring contact, it supplies a connection to the airbag and steering wheel controls like the cruise, horn and radio controls. I would check the fuse as well to cover the bases, it is fuse #9 in the passenger compartment fuse box, it is a 7.5 AMP