Question about 1990 Dodge Daytona
I am building a daytona as a feature stock race car ( all is stock ) lol
the car I have, not really sure of the year, but ive done everything with the timing belt following the books instructions and it still wont start. the only thing i noticed was my timing marks on the gears all lined up but the distributor was just off the straight to the block ( as the book said )
the other piece of info was that the valves may be bent and it wont start either. Im frantically trying to get this built for this weekend but untill i get it goinging im pooched any suggestions?? I should mention that the a/c has been removed if that has anything to do with it. Ive also changed the injector and the fule thingy lol its been awhile since ive pulled a wrench.
I HAVE SPARK, I HAVE NO COMMPRESSION WILL NOT FIREwas told untill everything is right or i find out if the valves are bent I wont have any compression. the book says the key on the cogs need to be at 12 oclock
if my cogs are in the right position can i take out the distributor and move its sprocket so the distributor is square to the block??? i dunno im lost.
Just as a side bar do they make a cam upgrade for this 2.5???
thanks sorry totakeup so much of your time
Willwork4u: Let me see if I can do you some good!
Lets start from scratch OK?
First, to avoid bending the valves providing they are not bent at this point, assuming you still have the belt on, Pull all the spark plugs out of the engine.
Now rotate the engine until the #1 piston is 1/2 way down the cylinder. The reason for this, is now, all the pistons are at the midway point in the motor and in no danger of hitting the valves. In this fashion, you can turn the cam to your hearts delight and not harm anything.
If you look at the cam gear closely, you will see a small hole in the outer parameter of the gear. Position the hole at the 12:00 PM position in relation to the cylinder head. If things are lined up correctly, look through the little hole and you can see a little mark that the hole will line up with. Additionally, the cam sprocket has a total of 6 large holes. Using the cylinder head surface where the valve cover mates with it, you should see that the cylinder head surface (looking through the holes) divides one hole on each side of the sprocket, exactly in 1/2. So you have two references, either will work.
Lets go to the bottom end now: Look at the crank gear. If you look close enough, you should see a small dot or punch mark close to the outside edge of the gear.
Look at the other gear (the larger one) and you should see on the outer edge, a line scribed into the edge of that gear.
What you are going to do now is "SLOWLY" rotate the crank clockwise until the dot is at about the 2:00 o'clock position.
As you are rotating the crank by hand, if you feel any resistance, like you have come up against something; STOP! In theory, you should not experience this situation. Assuming you don't and you have the crank gear in the 2:00 o clock position, rotate the larger gear until the line scribed in it lines up with the dot in the crank.
Essentially you should be able to take a straight edge and hold it dead center of the crank, pass it over the dot on the crank gear, pass it over the scribed line and the end of the straight edge should cut the center of the retaining bolt for the big gear, in 1/2!
If you have accomplished this, the engine is in proper time!!!!!!!!!
It's time to put the belt on.
You have a side which you want tight , which is what holds it in time and the other side is going to have some slack. The slack side is the side the tensioner is on.
If you look closely at the tensioner, you'll notice it is eccentric, this is what gives it the means of taking up the slack. Back the bolt off and rotate the tensioner to the position where it would have the least effect on the belt tension.
Carefully slide the belt onto the gears, starting at the bottom, meshing the teeth with the crank and pulling it tight (without turning the crank). Then carefully fit the belt over the next gear, meshing it with the belt teeth. The marks should remain lined up.
You want to feed the belt past the tensioner pulley, and stop on that side, keeping it snug on the gears. Note, carefully work the belt up over the cam gear. You will have to be moving the belt on the tensioner side, but it is important that you get the belt started and that it has remained lined up as well as fairly tight on that side.
Once you have the belt in place, rotate the tensioner eccentric to take the slack out of the belt. A good rule of thumb is that if you go to the longest span of the belt on the tensioner side, take the belt between you index finger and your thumb. You should only be able to twist it to about 45 degrees. Lock the tensioner in place. Torque the bolt 105 "inch" pounds. Use common sense and you don't need a torque wrench!
Once together, rotate the engine three full revolutions and recheck the belt tension, you can recheck your valve timing again if you want, by rolling the engine a little more.
What you can do if you want, to do a "Quick"compression" test, (if the engine is on a stand, rotating it by hand, you can place your thumb over the spark plug hole and rotate the crank four full revolutions. Do this for all four cylinders. You should feel some air pressure against your thumb on each cylinder.
If the engine is in the car, make sure the plug wires are where they can't zap you. Have someone crank the engine while you hold your thumb over each spark plug hole as the engine is cranked. You should get a nice"POP", "POP"! if it's got compression on a cylinder.
Assuming you have compression, we go to the distributor!
Bring the engine back around to TDC (top dead center) in the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder.
At this point, you want to look at where the #1 plug wire meets the distributor cap. This is where the rotor is going to point underneath the cap when the distributor is bolted down and in position.
SO, Now that you know where # 1 is on the distributor, take a magic marker before you remove the cap and just mark the spot on the outside of the distributor lining up with # 1.
Remove the cap and you can line the tip of the rotor up with the mark you just made.
When you go to install the distributor in the motor, as it starts to seat, the rotor will start to rotate because it is meshing with a gear inside the engine. You will have to rotate the rotor slightly back from where it lines up so the when you install the distributor, by the time it is flush with the block, it is perfectly lined up with your mark. Take into consideration, you have some leeway for adjustment to set ignition timing, but it is limited.
With the distributor properly set, bolted down, put the plugs back in, cap and wires back in place, make sure everything is nailed down and it should fire up. During the cranking, if it seems to crank and then slow down and then crank and then slow down, it means the timing is probably advanced too far, Rotate the distributor just a little counter clockwise and try it again. When the timing is fairly close, it should crank fairly easily without it sounding like it starts to turn and then like something is inside it bringing it to a near stop.
OK>>>>>I trust, this should be in pretty good detail short of my being there. I'll keep my fingers crossed that there are no bent valves. Good luck.......let me know how things go and let the folks at FIXYA know if I've done you any good.
Take caer YA hear?
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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