Both driver & pass window motors have quit with-in days of each other. truck is old but only has 39000 miles. I bought it new. several months ago the motors acted up but started working again. Also the electric door locks did the same thing. they are working fine now. I lifted the glass by hand & it was very heavy, but i had my son push the "up" switch and it went right up. I'm stumped!
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Re: electric window problems
Its old but not used often motor have moiture in then and the corrosion prevent good contact there no miracle cure if ever you dont change them they gonna died on you if our window down and it dont go up put the switch up to lift the window and with our odder hand hit the door it should work bad contact thanks
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Then you have two possibilities. First, most likely. Wires have broken. Open the drivers door and at the front you will see a rubber boot from the frame to the door. This is where the wires like to break. Second would be the master switch failed. I have replaced one or two(in 30 years) that the switch completely died. Usually just one or two windows quit working.
the fuse is the same for all,if you can check the contacts on the switch for that window/also the connector that plugs into the switch itself,they can be corroded,oxidation electricity can not pass through,for the switch itself you will see little tabs that lock the switch inside its own housing pop the switch out and get inside the same way the buttons have two brass contacts(1up)(10down)you will see tiny contact buttons clean where they touch each other & put a die electric lube or spray with pb blaster liquid wrench lube once cleaned & lubed it should work,for the connector do the same to clean it,an emory board nail shaper that woman use will also work for both with some trimming,now for the motor itself?did it start to go up slower & then eventually quit if so unplug it clean those contacts for the plug if after all things are done & still no window function the window motor burned out(slower than others and then it quit)if it's the motor you will see three brass torx screws take those out & you will feel a wheel with a cable wrapped around it,hold that wheel & cable tightly & pull on the motor to seperate them,put it back the same way,the window goes up & down by the wheel & cable,so thats the shabang for you in the easiest order electrical contacts first motor second have fun
first check the wires that run between the body of the car and the door.there should be a flexable boot covering the wires for protection from the enviroment and so it looks good when opening the door to someone looking at the area.its a common problem in this area that the wires break from opening and closing the door.if the damage is here repair the wires.if not then the next thing is to check the drivers door switch as the other switches power off of this.
I had the flashing lights problem all last winter. In warm weather it
doesn't happen, and the lights stay on when in manual mode.Rear
defrost and cruise control quit working, and toggling rear defrost when
headlights were on automatic turned them on and off. Alternator
was replaced 5 years ago. Olds dealer fixed a stalling and lights off
and dimming problem by repairing 4 corroded grounding straps under the
hood. New mechanic is looking into the new problem, which I
suspect began when I had a power steering hose leak that corrupted the
grounds. Sometimes the climate control, heat and A/C quit entirely. Very
bad in winter! Other problems with 150K miles include new window
operating switch, driver's side, service engine light going on at the
same spot on my commute every day, and going off at lower altitude, and
occasional rough shifting. The motor burns oil, about a quart every 1500 miles, but no white smoke noticeable in back. Motor runs great, and the car is tight and quiet.
The future problems? Now that really narrows down the possibilities. The biggest problem is running out of money once the warranty expires. The second biggest problem would be letting the wife or kids drive it.
Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. These are very high maint. cars.
Electric seat motor and cables should go kaput. As will the drivers side electric window. The rear tailights will get water in them and quit. The oxygen sensor will quit leaving a check engine light on. The Bosch electric fuel pump IN the tank will quit as well, leaving you stranded. Get it replaced every 40-60 thou miles.
It may be old parts. They get sticky and rusty sitting there and one day usually the windows go down and not up again. Sometimes if all break at once like 3 at once, like in the same day or so, I would say something else is wrong, but you have a 2006.... I have a 2005 with 130K miles from brand new and have to replace all my switches and arms. I do live at the ocean and this all broke there. faster in the rust issues here, just like bicycles in the outdoor carports do here also, unless you bring them inside. Power windows are tricky because the electrical has to be so perfect, and the relay switches seem to be a major short life span issue, and the arms and motor move a heavy load and everything has to be greased well enough for all those years. Without enough juice and well greased components, due to bad electrical connection and age, everything goes sticky, stuck, click, gone. Lot's of people just replace the switches first and the windows work, but these switches are carrying a dirty old load in the window motors.
I have the same problem, its more than likely a sticking motor. I just punch the door panel below the window switch (where the motor is) and it works. You may have to bang it a few times but i have to do it about once a week on the front right or my car.