20-amp starter/ignition fuse keeps blowing & car won't start
My daughters car wouldn't start & I found the 20-amp starter/ignition fuse to be blown. I replaced it, cranked the car a few times...then, on the 3rd time...it blew the fuse. I went through this replacing the fuse process a few times...then, jiggled a few wires & it remained running for a week or two. Today, it is doing the same thing. Replacing the fuse allows it to crank. What's up? I'm her mother...not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination..so, I really need some help here...thanks...Now...her tail lights are out too...
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SOunds like a closed short in the ignition system. The actual ignition could be at fault. The starter may be at fault. Pinched or exposed wiring touching the chassis or another live wire may be the cause. Check your manual to be sure the 20 amp fuse is the proper fuse for the ignition system. It may just be to low of an amp and may be a 25 to 60 amp fuse or more. Only use the recommended size of fuse as using too high a amperage in a fuse can cause bigger problems if the fuse does not blow in time. These fuses serve a purpose to save the electrical and electronic parts form unnecessary damage.
Pls be more specific, doe's this fuse keep blowing or what? Fuse blows and your car won't start. I have a 2004 GTC and the #8 fuse kept blowing, had to replace the starter, (it was pulling 80amps instead or the normal 30-35) once the starter was replaced, no more starting issues and the fuse no longer blows. Hope this helps, good luck
Sounds like your starter solenoid is sticking or the ignition switch to keep the starter engaged rotating the engine. First change out your starter solenoid should solve the problem also the starter may be pulling to many amps and blowing the fuse simply because the starter is bad and is going out. Take the starter off take it to autozone have it amp tested or load tested you may find this is your problem from the beginning..Remember to rate my solution thanks in advance
I am a mechanic,i had that same problem where my engine 20amp fuse were blowing....i fixed it...problem were a broken wire in the harnace on the side of the cylinder head....i made over $200 on that job...yahhh
Check ignition switch fuse. This
is a 20 Amps. see that it has not blown. In 2004 Fuse should be nr 8 in
the power box under the hood (newer models #24).
Once you are
sure that battery, fuse and wires are OK, check starter and ignition
switch. Check if there is 12V to starter while cranking. If there is
power and the starter motor does not turn, then the motor is gone. If
there is no power to starter motor when you crank, then the ignition
switch located inside the steering column may need replacement. Before
repairing, try reading error codes with a code scanner.
The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.
My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:
Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!
I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???
I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!
The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)
I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)
Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.
At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.
i would say you have a mains problem?any car that blows a 40amp fuse has a big fault.you have a direct short in the alternator/starter/battery area.take a very close look, as this type of fault will show its face pretty quick, check all heavy wires to and from starter/battery,and if satisafied get the alternator checked as it could be the problem.adrian,,,
I'm curious, does this vehicle have an alarm/remote starter? If so I expect the installer didn't wire it correctly ... it was an all too frequent issue, with inexperienced installers we had .... I would first suspect any add-on device first (if any) ... In answer to your question ... I know it does have a relay (Starter solenoid is a relay and built onto the starter) As far as it being a relay or the IGN switch ... I'm skeptical.