It could be an ignition coil or many other things to diagnose the problem I would start by removing the oil cap have an assistant crank the engine while you watch the cams inside to make sure they are turning if not you most likely have a broken timming belt. if they do turn the next step is to scan the vehicle for touble codes. then follow down the diagnostic procedure for the opposing code or codes. The most likely cause is going to be one of three thing broken timming belt, bad camshaft position sensor, or faulty wiring not probabl but still a possability. hope this helps and good luck.
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Make sure battery has a full charge. Don't crank the starter motor more than a few seconds at a time, let it cool, a little. How long since a tune-up? Are there any applicable codes? Have you tried a jumper wire at your data link connector, to get codes? If your check engine lite isn't functional, it won't work.
Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil, usually a pink wire, goes hot with the key on. If possible, use a test light on negative side of coil, it should pulse with engine cranking. The ignition module pulses ground with input from pick-up coil. Could be other issues? If the battery isn't charged, we're just spinning our wheels.
so the scan tool tells you which one fails?
P030x (why not tell me which one, ?)
so a coil is dead using a fresh new spark plug or some old ratty plug.?
why not say what you mean by NOT FIRING
what did you do to prove that. here ill guess.
scan tool told me. (DTC)
a test spark plug is dead. (new plug)
the shorting out of spark plug by hand did not drop RPM?
the Pyro IR gun shows low temp on cylinder x, (not stated)
if all you did was this...and and put a new battery in and still wont start...if you have went thru your plugs..wires..distributor..ignition coil...made sure your getting spark..if not..check your relays and fuses..preferebly one that deals with spark and timing for injectors..if everything is fine to that point...then try a crankshaft position sensor...it tells the pcm timing for fuel injectors and fire to the ignition coil...hopefully this helps.
You are correct in your understanding. If the coil has at least 12 volts and gets a ground signal from the computer, the coil should fire. The coil actually sparks when the ground is removed. The cam and crank sensors tell the computer when the cylinders are at top dead center which also opens the injectors. Have you checked to see if you have battery voltage at the coil, and tried another coil ?
Hi, I believe there is a computer problem. If possible check codes for no start condition. if you know the no.#1 cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) on engine then you will know no#1 distributor is. Good luck.
You've done the most obvious, and we're still in the process of elimination -
You said -"no fire" so that's completely dead - not even a missfire?
The problem should be at the coil, or 12V side of things.
The coils usually fail at high voltage, - so test OK with a meter, just break down in use as the insulation is defective.
I had a car that was stripped of everything - and it ended up being a defective coil - which is what I suggested in the first place.
Make sure you are getting 12V to the coil with the ignition ON.
If possible test the coil by using the HV output directly to a spark plug (one of the old ones) - then ground the other terminal.
(make sure you have both contacts) You should get a spark when turning ignition on and off.
Any noise from the coil during testing will indicate a fault also.
Check battery condition and clean contacts as a precaution.
Don't shock yourself! - take safety precautions against this.