Question about 1994 Volvo 850

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Turbo not working

94 850 - the turbo boost gauge is in the middle4 and stays there when the engine is off. The tubo quit working and the engine is very sluggish. The air filter was filty dirty so I changed it and the performance was better ,but still no turbo. Any known problems or fuses, relays, sensors that I should check ?

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 Look for faulty wiring or corroded connections??...check fuel pump relay it may be a fuse.

did the check engine light came on? did it come up with code 1171 

if so...I would clear the code and drive the car for a while and see if it (code) comes back. Also notice when you drive how well it runs and is the power the same? I think that the MAF (mass air filter) is beginning to fail. Many times I see fuel trim codes all by themselves, and the cure is the MAF. Mass Air Flow sensor. MAF and labor $400 or so depending on the labor rate. 

or...


check the cam sensor this affects the spark only as the 20valve version has separate ignition and fuel ECU's
the cam sensor is located under the distributor

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

  • vanessa helman
    vanessa helman Jun 23, 2008

    i noticed my answer above had cut off sentences so here it is again:

     Look for faulty wiring or corroded connections??...check fuel pump relay it may be a fuse.

    did the check engine light came on? did it come up with code 1171 

    if so...I would clear the code and drive the car for a while and see if it (code) 
    comes back. Also notice when you drive how well it runs and is the power the same? I think that the MAF (mass air filter) is beginning to fail. Many times I see fuel
     trim codes all by themselves, and the cure is the MAF. Mass Air Flow sensor. 
    MAF and labor $400 or so depending on the labor rate. 

    or...


    check the cam sensor this affects the spark only as the 20valve version has 
    separate ignition and fuel ECU's
    the cam sensor is located under the distributor

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Try changing the fuel relay first. under the fuses, big relay. shop around for prices, it is expensive. if poss, go to a junk yard and find a used one and see if it helps. that way, if it does, you buy a new one and keep it in reserve for the next time. if it doesn't work , you aren't out alot of money, then we can go from there.

Hope that helps.......

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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So concentrate on the first turbo.
Isolate it from the ecm control system
(There is a misleading tip on youtube involving pulling hoses but it is misguided, the comment is ignorant, and I do not recommend it)
Instead, as per the manual, on the first turbo remove the system pressure lines from exhaust and wastegate. Loop a short piece of vacuum hose from the primary turbo output to its own wastegate.
Blank off the system hoses you disconnected. Fit a boost gauge, drive it and observe the boost gauge readings (manifold pressure). If the primary turbo is OK this will make it operate at a lower boost level (5-7psi ?) than the system control (10-17psi) but it will be a purely mechanical operation which will isolate where the fault is.
If there is no boost and the pressure stays zero down then the turbo is not working. Check for the wastegate being stuck or maladjusted. If that is working then you bave a faulty turbo for whatever reason. Maybe there is a loose bolt stuck in it from the engine rebuild?

If the turbo is working OK then it points to an electrical issue with the the boost control solenoid which is inside the wing near the vacuum tank beside the battery compartment. The control voltage from the ecm usually pulses it on/off at a fast rate to give a measured control and it may be stuck. Maybe it is the ecm or maybe the valve. But before you go dig it out, first check the pressure lines such as 10 and 23 are connected or not reversed at their connectors where they go through the wing (just behind the battery)
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1 Answer

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Yup your turbo is toast, ive had the same thing happen on a nissan skyline. The smoke you describe is the oil escaping from the turbo core and burning off in the dump pipe.Even though you managed to get the nut back on the compressor wheel the damage to your exhaust wheel, bearings and shaft is already done, chances are you'l be missing a few fins in the exhaust wheel to say the least, it would've propelled itself in the exhuast housing probably spinning at atleast 25,000 rpm.The turbo in the gt4 is a stong unit, just how much boost were you running? :)

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