94 850 - the turbo boost gauge is in the middle4 and stays there when the engine is off. The tubo quit working and the engine is very sluggish. The air filter was filty dirty so I changed it and the performance was better ,but still no turbo. Any known problems or fuses, relays, sensors that I should check ?
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Re: turbo not working
Look for faulty wiring or corroded connections??...check fuel pump relay it may be a fuse.
did the check engine light came on? did it come up with code 1171
if so...I would clear the code and drive the car for a while and see if it (code) comes back. Also notice when you drive how well it runs and is the power the same? I think that the MAF (mass air filter) is beginning to fail. Many times I see fuel trim codes all by themselves, and the cure is the MAF. Mass Air Flow sensor. MAF and labor $400 or so depending on the labor rate.
check the cam sensor this affects the spark only as the 20valve version has separate ignition and fuel ECU's the cam sensor is located under the distributor
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Re: turbo not working
Try changing the fuel relay first. under the fuses, big relay. shop around for prices, it is expensive. if poss, go to a junk yard and find a used one and see if it helps. that way, if it does, you buy a new one and keep it in reserve for the next time. if it doesn't work , you aren't out alot of money, then we can go from there.
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fit a boost gauge to the manifold to see if the turbo is actually producing boost. Fit temporarily by running the hose from the engine compartment to the cabin where you or a passenger can read the results. Turbos only produce boost under load as they need heat from the fuel to spin the turbine . If you cannot get a boost gauge then take it to a speed shop that has a chassis dyno and have it tested there . This will also test the pump for correct calibration and timing
Ford Diesel engine blows off the intake rubber intake hoses, blue in color with 7.0 Liter. If you have a problem with this engine as stated above there is an updated hose for the intake tubes also remove the intake pipe on the turbo side of the turbo remove the 10MM bolt that holds the metal tube on to the block and remove the clamp on the turbo, remove tube. Next look at the turbo shaft inside do you see oil in the turbo? If no then grasp the turbo shaft and try moving it up or down and in and out. Any Movement The turbo needs to be rebuilt before replacing the Turbo hoses. If there is oil in the turbo then it needs to be rebuilt so stop at this time and decide what you want to do with it. The turbo also has a flapper valve inside the turbo that goes bad at about 100,000 this is the boost waste gate and boost flapper valve, it is an internal gate unlike the mechanical ones on most turbo. If you have low power check the boost pressure with your boost gauge if you have less than 12 pounds of boost then it's time to look at the turbo. Of the Turbo I have rebuilt I have increased fuel mileage by 30 percent. If you want the details of how to gain the extra mileage post a comment to me or ask this question and I will get back to you for the procedure.
boost pressure is related to exhaust temperature . so if you are not under load then the accelerator position will only allow the fuel that is required and so the boost will be reacting accordingly. If you suddenly accelerate and the boost goes up then the turbo is doing the job. If it stays the same then look for boost leaks in hoses and air cooler. waste gate settings or faulty turbo.
I am assuming that by "no turbo power" you are meaning that the boost gauge is not registering and pressure?
You most likely need to have your turbo rebuilt. The check engine light is coming on as a result of the bad turbo.
The gauge is working fine, the turbo will not kick in untill the engine is spinning fast enough, as the turbo is propelled by exaughst from the engine. So, you can drive around normal and never use the turbo, and climb in the gas and spool the turbo up, what you are noticing is called turbo lag, which is the biggest down fall when compaired to superchargers!
The second turbo simply follows the first when the system activates it by bringing it in parallel with the first. The first turbo is only designed for a 1200cc motor so it can not deliver enough compressed air at revs for a bigger motor so they arrange to bring in a second turbo of the same size when the first one runs out of puff. The first turbo is a semi-mechanical device. The ecm raises the boost level at which it operates but it should be producing some boost regardless. So concentrate on the first turbo. Isolate it from the ecm control system (There is a misleading tip on youtube involving pulling hoses but it is misguided, the comment is ignorant, and I do not recommend it) Instead, as per the manual, on the first turbo remove the system pressure lines from exhaust and wastegate. Loop a short piece of vacuum hose from the primary turbo output to its own wastegate. Blank off the system hoses you disconnected. Fit a boost gauge, drive it and observe the boost gauge readings (manifold pressure). If the primary turbo is OK this will make it operate at a lower boost level (5-7psi ?) than the system control (10-17psi) but it will be a purely mechanical operation which will isolate where the fault is. If there is no boost and the pressure stays zero down then the turbo is not working. Check for the wastegate being stuck or maladjusted. If that is working then you bave a faulty turbo for whatever reason. Maybe there is a loose bolt stuck in it from the engine rebuild?
If the turbo is working OK then it points to an electrical issue with the the boost control solenoid which is inside the wing near the vacuum tank beside the battery compartment. The control voltage from the ecm usually pulses it on/off at a fast rate to give a measured control and it may be stuck. Maybe it is the ecm or maybe the valve. But before you go dig it out, first check the pressure lines such as 10 and 23 are connected or not reversed at their connectors where they go through the wing (just behind the battery) Good luck
Yup your turbo is toast, ive had the same thing happen on a nissan skyline. The smoke you describe is the oil escaping from the turbo core and burning off in the dump pipe.Even though you managed to get the nut back on the compressor wheel the damage to your exhaust wheel, bearings and shaft is already done, chances are you'l be missing a few fins in the exhaust wheel to say the least, it would've propelled itself in the exhuast housing probably spinning at atleast 25,000 rpm.The turbo in the gt4 is a stong unit, just how much boost were you running? :)
with the engine cold remove the turbo outlet hose and check for free rotation of the spindle. if it is ok check the wastegate capsule link arm mechanism is not seized as this is fairly common. if all is ok check the pipe work from the turbo outlet to the intercooler (lh side below airfilter headlaamp area) then from intercooler through up to inlet manifold. if all is ok, get a manual pressure gauge on the take off port at rear of inlet manifold should be a pipe blocked off with a rubber bung (lh side back of manifold) (lh side is gear box side of engine) drive car an see what the gauge reads. if it is registering boost then is often the manual boost transducer module on the right hand wheel arch by the cam belt cover that is not working so boost is there just does not register in the car.full boost is not achieved until car is at normal operating temp. if no boost turbo may need checking for wastegate operation or damage on the exhaust side. Hope this helps