Question about 2004 Dodge Ram

21 Answers

Truck just died.

Just purchased a used 2004 dodge ram diesel. Driving down the road and the truck just shut down. Won't start, gauges don't work, don't know if there is a sensor or fuse that just shut it down like that. Turns over just won't fire. Any ideas would be just great.

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  • 11 more comments 
  • cntlund Jun 23, 2008

    I purchased the truck two weeks ago and everything was fine. Couldn't find the anti-theft key under the dash. The truck was going just fine and the engine shut down and the guages don't work. There is power to everything but the truck will not start. Turns over just fine. Wondering the the computer or a sensor somewhere is the culprit.

  • cntlund Jun 23, 2008

    Took the truck down to a repair shop and no codes came through? Don't know what the next step is. The fuel pump is working. How do I tell if the injector pump is working? What happens if the computer is bad? Would codes still come through? The strange thing is that when the engine died the gages stopped working, by that I mean the spedometer won't read, the fuel shows empty, no oil pressure, or temp reading, but they all still light up and have power. If a module went out would there be a code?

  • cntlund Jun 23, 2008

    Took the truck down to a repair shop and no codes came through? Don't know what the next step is. The fuel pump is working. How do I tell if the injector pump is working? What happens if the computer is bad? Would codes still come through? The strange thing is that when the engine died the gages stopped working, by that I mean the spedometer won't read, the fuel shows empty, no oil pressure, or temp reading, but they all still light up and have power. If a module went out would there be a code?

  • cntlund Jun 25, 2008

    Haven't tried the crankshaft solution. Took it back to the dealer to see what he could find out. Haven't heard anything back. Told him of the possible solutions that I have gotten from you guys and just waiting to hear back. If it is the crankshaft sensor would it cause the gages not to work as well? I don't know exactly what sensors cause what.

  • cntlund Jun 25, 2008

    I was told that the ECM is what is causing my truck not to run. They told me that there is some corrosion of the wiring harness that goes to the ECM and is causing it to fail. Don't know if they are fishing or what. Told them the tips that you guys gave me this afternoon and waiting to see if they look into it. I appreciate everybody helping me out and giving me ideas. That is why I keep reposting. Does anybody think that the ECM is the problem?

  • cntlund Jun 26, 2008

    I am hopefully able to see everyone's comments and ideas. I have to repost the problem to get through to the next comment. That is why It keeps getting reposted. Thanks again for everyone's help. You all helped a lot and I appreciate it. I will keep you posted on what ends up being the problem.

  • cntlund Jun 27, 2008

    They just replaced the ECM in my truck and that was not the problem. They are putting in a new harness on Monday saying that could be part of the problem as well. I was told that the truck computer won't even "talk" to the computer. Could my injectors or injector pump be bad? Don't really know how they work but that wouldn't explain the gages. Also before it quit me there was a fairly loud squeak from under the hood. It stopped after a couple of days so didn't think it was an indicator of anything. Only heard it when the truck was in idle. So if anybody has had this problem with the gages and the truck not starting I would appreciate some more insite.

  • cntlund Jun 30, 2008

    Re-installed the ECM and still no luck. Still can't get the truck to talk to the computer. Wondering if there is something else that would be bad that would make it so the truck would not communicate.

  • cntlund Jul 01, 2008

    Replaced the ignition switch and that was not the problem. Checked and cleaned the crankshaft sensor. Still am not getting the engire to fire. Needles on the gauges are still getting power and lighting up but are not moving.

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21 Answers

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This would be due to the failure in the ignition system provided try to call a technitian in this case

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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Hi,
I'm sorry we haven't been able to solve your problem yet, But hopefully it's a process of elimination that will lead to a fix.

Can I ask If you have a spare key? - and to try that instead.

Your vehicle uses a transponder chip in the plastic part of the key. It is known that mobile phones can wipe these chips - so they will no longer work. If you recieved or made a call or msg with the phone near the ignition area it can wipe the chip - or blow the coil located around the ignition switch area.

A good vehicle electrical engineer can test the sensor coil, and an auto locksmith can reprogram the chip on the key.

The coil has to send a signal - and the key uses the inducted power to power-up, and send a coded signal back. The coil sends this back to the ecu which compares it to the immobiliser code.

The power a phone emits is 1000x larger than the key chip - so will blow the coil or the transponder circuitry.

Ask about checking the transponder system (by substituting ECU , coil and key if necessary)

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

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  • 497 Answers

Plz check ur fuel supply

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • Yaz  S
    Yaz S Jul 01, 2008

    i think it is better to get it inspected by a professional...tc

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Hi there

I have the solution to your problem, if there is a problem with your fuel supply or anything to do with the fuel, your gauges will still work, so i can promise you that it has nothing to do with fuel.

I also had the same problem as you, i recently bought a Mercedes-Benz AMG Convertible secondhand, the same day i bought it, the car stalled and it wouldn't start, luckily i had someone in a separate vehicle,I jump-started the car and luckily for me, the car started and a message popped up telling me that i must get my alternator checked out, so i am almost 100% certain that it is your alternator.

What is an alternator?
An alternator is the thing that recharges your battery while driving, when you have a faulty or broken alternator, your battery will not be able to re-charge so your car will not start and nothing in it will work (lights, gauges and your air conditioner).

Keep us posted and thank you for using our service.
FixYa for all your troubleshooting needs.

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

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Hi cntlund - might as well throw my hat in the ring. Sorry for your problems. Sounds like it may be a crack or cracks in the ECU. The circuit board sometimes over time from vibrations gets small cracks in and causes malfunctions. It may be covered with a little grime that you'll have to clean off to actually find the cracks. This is actually a common problem. If this is the case I've included a link where you can purchase a rebuilt to save you some money and won't cost you nearly as much as you thought it would. Hope this helps.

http://www.acdelcocomputers.com/computers/chrycomputer.htm

Adham

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

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If you are not recieving anything from any of the guages it very well could be the computer as midwest-tech and leetheduece said. Call me crazy but I dont think you have a PT Cruiser like Hemantraj posted or a buick/olds ignition tumbler. I have seen this issue on some GM's where ther is a recall on the trucks because the compartment they sit in sometimes gets water in it and corrodes the ECM. Most of the time the ECM will throw a code but if you aren't getting a code or any response from any of your guages your ecm is bad. The good news is the ECM is fairly common and most manufacturers use the same ECM in alot of their vehicles. The only difference is what BIN file is flashed on them. What you can do to save some money is pick up a replacement ECM from a salvage yard and have it flashed at the dealership with the most up to date BIN from the factory. Alot of times Auto Manufacturer's will release new BIN files over the year the truck model is built. One nice thing about it is you will have the most up to date BIN. A used ECM can cost you anywhere between $25 to $100 bucks on average depending on the salvage yard. If the one near you doesnt have one you can try this link to an on-line network of salvage yards. All you have to do is select your year, make and model along with what part you are looking for from the drop down list and you will be provided with contact information for each salvage yard along with the price. Here is the link:

Website Link

Let me know how everything works out. Thanks - Tech101

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

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Troubleshooting procedure " Engine cranks wont start
http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_cranks_but_wont_start.htm

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

  • Kleanthis Mavropoulos
    Kleanthis Mavropoulos Jun 26, 2008

    Basic Checks:
    A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.


    B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.


    C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)


    D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.


    E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)

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Check whether the battry is in good condition and also check whether the voltage is proper ,because this may arise due to this also.And also try to clean the crank shaft sensor this will help you

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

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The ECM is most likely the only problem with this as it is the brain of the vehicle and if something went wrong with it from natural corrosion of the harness, then it can cause all sorts of different problems as it control every aspect of the vehicle basically that is electric controlled. If you buy the parts yourself, it would probably be cheaper than having the shop supply them. You can get them from a parts store or even a junk yard if you know what to look for when making sure they will be good. Depending on the corrosion, you may be able to fix the harness but that is not advisable as it can cause more problems if not fixed perfectly, just easier to get a new one, good luck with this

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jun 27, 2008

    well, with the harness being corroded, the ecu and harness is at fault for sure, I have no doubt, I just hope it doesn't cost you much to fix, good luck

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Here's some more input for ya:

First thing to go out on these trucks is usually the transfer pump which transfers fuel from the fuel tank to the injection pump. Chrysler has an updated kit that is used to move this often faulty part to an in the fuel tank pump kit that has shown to be flawless. I haven't seen one truck come back after that was installed. Then, what can also happen is, is that when the original transfer pump starves the "injection pump" of fuel..( injection pump is aluminum and is lubricated by the diesel fuel..) the injection pump goes bad.. All has to checked out by a technician to see what is needed. Hope this helps

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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Hi cntlund - might as well throw my hat in the ring. Sorry for your problems. Sounds like it may be a crack or cracks in the ECU. The circuit board sometimes over time from vibrations gets small cracks in and causes malfunctions. It may be covered with a little grime that you'll have to clean off to actually find the cracks. This is actually a common problem. If this is the case I've included a link where you can purchase a rebuilt to save you some money and won't cost you nearly as much as you thought it would. Hope this helps.

http://www.acdelcocomputers.com/computers/chrycomputer.htm

Jeff

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

  • Jeffrey Pemberton
    Jeffrey Pemberton Jun 25, 2008

    Before you just go replacing different parts and sensors hoping to get the right one please check this. I've known people that have replaced five or ten different things only to find that this was the problem. Won't cost anything to check. If I'm wrong it won't be the first time as we all can say. If I'm right...Well give it a shot.

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Replace the crankshaft sensor is the only thing that can help u i feel after trying out all those possible things.
feel free 4 further assistance .rate the particular experts solution as fixya that helps u understand n solve ur problem

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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This could be an issue with the ignition switch in the column. If the switch isn't powering the ignition properly, you can crank it all day with no effect. The gages are the indicator, they should receive power if the ignition is working properly.

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

  • Ryan Rogers
    Ryan Rogers Jun 26, 2008

    I spoke with a friend that had a similar problem with a similar truck (2002). He had to replace the module that controls the security system.

  • Ryan Rogers
    Ryan Rogers Jul 01, 2008

    Do you have a security system on this truck?

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Have you tried any of the proposed solutions?
Thanks,
Lee

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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  • Lee A.
    Lee A. Jun 25, 2008

    I agree clean/replace crankshaft sensor.
    Thanks,
    Lee


  • Lee A.
    Lee A. Jun 26, 2008

    Yes that could definetly be the issue. I am not sure if you are seeing everyones posts or not. If alot of the questions were answered your problem might be determined easier. If there is a problem with FixYa that your not seeing everything you should report it to them promptly at experts@fixya.com
    Thanks,
    Lee


  • Lee A.
    Lee A. Jun 26, 2008

    Ohh and thanks hermantaj for saying the exact same thing I did again after me.
    Props though,
    Lee


  • Lee A.
    Lee A. Jun 26, 2008

    If it does end up being the computer, I hope you accept midwest as the most helpful, as he was the first one to say it was the computer. Please keep us posted I would love to hear the outcome.
    Good luck,
    Lee


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It seems the problem is in the computer , because everything goes down,guages dont work, spedo wont read no oil pressure no temp reading and fuel shows empty yet there is a fuel ,this the sign where computer done logic lock..You better call assisstance from the service center to override the computer lock..try this option maybe of help...

Posted on Jun 24, 2008

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P0138 - Bank 1 Sensor 2 is your left hand downsteam sensor. (FYI, bank 1 is left, bank 2 is right; sensor 1 is upstream, sensor 2 is downstream). Anyways, it could be the wiring has a problem with it, or, most likely, the 02 sensor is bad.

P0740 - Basically, the 2001 Ram service manual puts it nicely, "Relationship between engine and vehicle speeds indicated failure of torque convertor clutch lock-up system." After sending the signal to engage the torque convertor, the PCM likes to see a certain engine RPM drop. Maybe caused by a bad torque convertor solenoid. Hope that helps.......

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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  • 77 Answers

Sounds like the battery could be bad or the connection from the engine to batter could be corroded or lose, try tightening the battery, another possibility is that the fuel pump is going bad.
ive noticed many people have had the same problem as you, you can see if there was a possible recall of any kind relevant to your truck here:
http://www.motortrend.com/used_cars/01/dodge/index.html

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

  • vanessa helman
    vanessa helman Jun 23, 2008

    Verdict; Bad Pump.
    They say the codes on the vag com say that tha pump is bad.........
    P1562 Qual Adjuster Upper limit Atained
    P1563 Qual Adjuster Lower limit Atained
    P1354 Modulator Piston Displ Sensor Circ Malf.
    P1247 Needle Lift Sensor circ. Open/Short
    P0101 Mass Ok Volume Air Flow Range Perf.

    Total cost to replace the pump $2200.00 + The $245.00.







    .............


    I would check the pump connector, and I would also make sure the pump is primed.

    How about the engine control elements fuse?



    sounds like  short circuit





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  • 260 Answers

How recently did you purchase the truck. Most states have adopted case law that states even if you sign a no-warranty agreement there is still an understood 30 day warranty.

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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There will be some connections short cicuited ....so better check the connection from battery to all other parts ............also check fuse

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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  • 243 Answers

Sounds to me the computer is doing a forced shutdown youd need to use a diagnostic machine to check what sensor is going off. Your computer is most likely telling the injectors not to fire. This happens when a sensor is not reading correctly. Its a safety feature so if something is broke you dont cause more damage. This usually can break down to a air or fuel sensor. It should still be able to throw a code. Can you tell if its giving you one at all for me?

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Nathan Ayers
    Nathan Ayers Jun 23, 2008

    I dont believe you have a gm passlock system so that shouldnt be your problem.

  • Nathan Ayers
    Nathan Ayers Jun 23, 2008

    If you can give diagnose wether or not its giving you a code. I can tell you what it is and help diagnose your problem. Ive never seen this on a 2004 dodge ram but i have experience in my 10 years as a mechanic with problems such as this.

  • Nathan Ayers
    Nathan Ayers Jun 24, 2008

    whats the exact model dodge you have?

  • Nathan Ayers
    Nathan Ayers Jun 24, 2008

    try and clean the crankshaft sensor or replace it.


    Thanks and keep me updated.

    Nate


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You may have a "anti-theft" "key" under the dash on the driver side lower part of the dash. It looks like a computer chip that you slide into place. Pull it out and re-insert it. It that isn't it, you may have a problem with a loose connection with your ignition switch. Not the lock and tumbler but the electrical part of the switch that turns on the power to the rest of the truck.

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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