$450 is a good price to replace an AC compressor, but $150 and a little elbow grease is much cheaper. Make sure you have all the right tools to fit. If you have a Galant that is 1 to 13 years old don't worry about the refrigerant because it takes the new R134a, non damaging to the environment, unlike the previous refrigerant, chlorine based Freon. After releasing the pressure from the system and disconnecting the battery, loosen the belt via the tention arm. Remove the two lines from the front of the old compressor (2 screws). Then disconnect the sensor, and then the 4 screws holding up the compressor to the engine. Tilt the compressor so that no oil spills on to the ground. Then line up the new compressor (keep the plugs in the holes in until you are ready to re-attach the hoses so the oil does not spill out). I recommend using new gaskets so you have an air tight system. Take out the plugs, then connect the hoses. Tighten everything up, connect the belt, tighten it, recharge the system. It should take about 2 large cans of R134a. Take to a mechanic friend and have him/her check out your handy work. Have a beer and slap your belly on doing such a fine job.
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Re: Ac compressor is not working
You really should not do this one yourself. The old refrigerant needs
to be extracted professionally so it doesn't escape to atmosphere. Most
A/C extract and fill machines withdraw the refrigerant and recycle it
for re-use after the new compressor is installed.
If the stuff has already leaked out, I suppose you could take
change the compressor and re-install the hoses, but putting in new
refrigerant and compressor oil still requires care and special
equipment to do it right. It isn't an easy DIY job.
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Since they weren't sold without ac that info isn't available. You are going to have to measure it. Remember that the tensioner is going to put pressure on it so you need to account t for that. If the old belt is still on it i would use a piece of twine or fishing line and run it just like the belt is but bypassing the ac. The measure it. Be careful not to stretch the string.
There are fuses inside the car and under the hood. Check owners manual and investigate possible fuse blown. Ac,blower motor, dash, ac clutch, ac relay, blower relay. Always disconnect battery when working with anything electrical. Saves headaches
I'm sorry you have had such bad experiences with the shops. I would have stopped at the second one and forced them to fix it at their cost. I doubt you will be able to find the problem yourself, but I understand your hesitation to go back to another mechanic. I will be happy to try to walk you thru the diagnostic process but it may take a few days. First, do you know if the system is full of freon ? If it is full, do you know if the compressor is running when the ac is switched on ? The first shop should have discovered the blown fuse once they charged the system unless it took a day or two for the fuse to blow. The second shop that put the compressor on should have found the faulty fan, and the leaking hose if it is in fact leaking. So should have the third shop. If the compressor was faulty, and the system had been empty for a time, the hose could have started leaking once the system was being used. The pressure on the high side is over 200psi when the compressor is running. Let me know where you want to start with the diagnosis after you answer my questions.
is it full of freon? if so it could be that you just need to change the magnetic clutch which is a lot simpler job and cheaper too. get a book first so you have referance pull the belt off pull the nut in the center of the ac compressor make shure that you know what the clearance is betwean the clutch and the compressor it has shims and is imperative that the clearance is right you will need measurment tools feeler gages work best but befor you do any of this you need to make sure there is power and ground going to the two wire conector going to the clutch it wont get power till you turn the ac on or the computer tells it to run for the interior eco system so a magnetic cluch will not turn on if there is no signal resulting in the compressor not terning making the ac not work but its fairly simple to do and 900 is a dicent price at a shop but they would probably charge you for the whole compressor and charging the system and it was only a cluch if there is freon and the compressor isnt siezed and theres signal and ground change the clutch
the shop is trying to sell something not needed. i have done many change overs without changing anything but refrigerent ant adding they oil supplied in the 35$ change over kit offered everywere.some have many years and miles on them and are ok.the arguement the shops will give are well sir, your compressor will go out.not, and if it did so what change it when it broke. the orings will leak.not my first change over kit job was in 1999 and the a/c still works fine. so get the r12 to 134a kit at walmart it will work unless it dont work now wich would mean it leaked out or some other failure. if so fix leaks/repair system then recharge
The noise is the clutch on the front of the AC Compressor. This is a common problem on late ninety's Doge Rams. The clutch is inside the AC pulley. It is electronically controlled. Their are two wires coming off the AC compressor near the pulley. Follow these two wires and you will find a wiring harness connector that you can pull apart. Disconnecting this connector will stop the clutch from activating, saving you a little bit of gas too. But the AC will not work while these two wires are disconnected. I disconnect these for the winter to save on gas and noise. I don't know what causes these to activate so much.
As a Ford dealer tech I found this was always caused by the AC compressor cycling switch, it shuts the compressor off when it reaches about 30 PSI, this prevents freeze up and saves fuel, when the system press rises again to about 42 PSI it turns the compressor back on and so on, change the switch, it is located in the low pressure line from the compressor, that is the one that gets cold.