You need to take each spark plug out and individually test them while u start them up. Take one plug and put it back in the the plug wire and while you are holding it to a ground crank it over. If you see a spark the plug is good. You probably do have foul plugs. If thats not the case then check the fuel system like fuel pump, fuel filter, and that kind of stuff.
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If the engine cranks over but wont start, the Hondas in that year range have a pretty good size relay under the drivers side of the dash, its about 1 1/2" by 2 1/2'
you can replace it or just take the cover off and if you look at the solder contacts very closely you will see one or two that have a crack around them.
just put a couple of drops of solder on them to fix the bad connection and you will be on your way. literally takes about 10 minutes start to finish
The distributor in the hondas has a function of also engaging the coil
to create spark. No spark = no fire. Perhaps take a plug out, leave the
lead on, hold it with INSULATED pliers against a solid metal part of the
engine and get someone to crank the engine over.
If the plug sparks -
coil and firing switch OK. If no spark, check coil first - remove main +
feed lead from coil terminals and check on a meter for power with key
on but NO motor cranking. No power = faulty distributor/firing switch.No
other ideas sorry!
If it won't
turn over you may want to check
Battery cables for tightness and/or corrosion
Neutral or clutch safety switch
If the timing belt went, the engine will crank real fast, because it is not turning the top end of the engine. That means you valve assembly will not move. If plug tubes are filled with oil then you need to replace the seals. Remove the valve cover, replace four round seals on the inside of the cover. 93 accords are famous for the ignighter going bad. Pull a spark plug, stick a screw driver in it, and hold it close to something metal and crank the engine. You should see a spark. If no spark, replace the ignighter inside the distributer cap on top.
that sure sounds like a voltage drop through the battery cables. could be a drop to the fuse box causing low voltage to engine sensors. i dont see the cam sensor causing your problem if jumper cables fix it. you need a multimeter with a min/max setting connected to both ends of one of the cables while cranking. anything over a half volt from one end to the other is too much and it would need replaced. do this on both pos. and neg. cable,including cable to fuse box. check batt. voltage while cranking. these fuel injected engines are very sensitive to voltage and if its too low to certain sensors it wont start. cam sensor controlls fuel injector timing via ecm, crank sensor controlls spark. it would be more helpful to me to know weather it is spark or fuel you aren't getting while cranking. hope i helped you and not caused you more questions. keep me up to date. dustang
The cylinder is not getting fuel, spark or compression. You have already checked for spark on that cable and it appears to be good. Pull the spark plug and see if it is damaged. You can also switch spark plug and cable to another cylinder and see if the miss travels with the plug and or cable. If so, you'll know its the spark plug/cable that is bad.
You can check for fuel by listening to the fuel injector to see if it clicks. Use an automotive stethoscope or a long screwdriver--put the metal end of the screwdriver on the injector and the other end against your ear and listen to the injector while the engine is cranking or running. You should hear it click for each time it pulses fuel.
If both fuel and spark are good, then you are probably missing compression in that cylinder. You (or a mechanic) will need to pull all the spark plugs and do a engine compression test with a compression test/gage set. Lots of things can lead to poor or zero compression including: broken piston rings, burned/stuck/broken valves, cracked cylinder head or engine block, cracked pistons,etc.
Because one cylinder is "dead", the engine has to work extra hard to start and run against a cylinder that is dragging it down. If you find low/no compression in that cylinder, you will probably have to remove the cylinder head to correct it. A big expensive job. It may be cost effective to replace the whole engine with a rebuilt one.