- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install: Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
Start by checking the balance on your tires. If they check out OK, if the car is front wheel drive, check the constant velocity (CV) joints. If it is rear wheel drive, it is possible, but unlikely, that you could have lost one of the balancing weights from the driveshaft. It is also possible that you might have a broken motor mount. In truth, fixing this is going to be a matter of trial and error. I would start with anything that spins.
it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?
here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.
Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).
Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.
Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.
Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.
NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.
Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.
Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.
Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).
Go to my profile I have just explained how to change a cv boot on a Trooper. The axle needs to be taken out to change the boot so the same solution. What you call an axle I have refered to as a drive (short for driveshaft) It takes a lot of explaining so save me a lot of writing if you read the solution I gave for changing the CV boot. Cheer's
Pull the CV boot up the driveshaft a little way, enough so you can clean all the old grease away.
Now look into the CV joint an locate the circlip that locks the CV to the driveshaft.
Now put the driveshaft into a vice with the CV joint facing downwards.
Now open the circlip and at the same time strike the CV joint. You can do this with a ballpin hammer if you are scrapping the CV joint. You can get a helper to stike the CV joint with a hammer while you keep the circlip open.
This will release the CV joint form the drive shaft.
Now clean the driveshaft of any old grease and fit a new CV boot if needed.
Now reverse the driveshift in the vice and fit the new CV joint. It will tap on with no trouble but do not damage it. Test it is on by trying to pull it off with your hands.
Now fill it with new grease.
Fit the CV boot to the CV joint and secure it to the CV joint.
have you undone the main hub bolt, if yes, there could be two different items holding the cv joint on, one is a small circlip in the joint end, or the other is just like an expanding metal ring again only small. what i had to do to change my one was take the driveshaft out (easier to see whats there) then gently (rubber hammer) hit the CV joint it should then fall off to allow you to change the CV joint. I spent over an hour trying to get the metal ring off, then after taking driveshaft off it was changed and back on in ten mins. Or you can go to a motor factors or similar and get a boot puller, my opinion hammer works better lol