Cylinder heads what is the combustion chamber size on the cylinder heads

Low compression on cylinder number 1 and cylinder number 2 on a 2000 Toyota Solara 2.2L engine could be caused by a few different issues. Here are a few possibilities:

1. Worn or damaged piston rings: The piston rings seal the combustion chamber and maintain compression. If the rings are worn or damaged, they may not be able to seal the combustion chamber properly, resulting in low compression.
2. Damaged or worn valves: The valves allow air and fuel to enter the combustion chamber, and allow exhaust gases to exit. If the valves are damaged or worn, they may not be able to seal the combustion chamber properly, resulting in low compression.
3. Damaged or worn cylinder walls: The cylinder walls are what the pistons move against. If the walls are damaged or worn, they may not be able to maintain proper compression.
4. Head gasket failure: The head gasket seals the combustion chamber and prevents compression from escaping. If the head gasket is damaged or blown, compression can escape, resulting in low compression.
5. Leak in the intake or exhaust system: a leak in the intake or exhaust system can cause low compression.

The dry compression test you did on cylinder 1 and 2, 80 PSI and 60 PSI respectively, are not within the normal range and indicate low compression. The wet compression test results are also not within the normal range, 95 PSI and 85

Yes this is correct, you can get important information from the colour of smoke from the exhaust:

Blue/Gray Smoke: Blue/gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:
Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shuts down.
Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.
Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of a rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:
Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.
White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.

Is it a lot of white smoke? White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.


Although for some cars white smoke is normal, as long as it is not super excessive.

Has the vehicle been overheated recently? White smoke from the exhaust indicates the combustion of antifreeze, which happens when either the cylinder head is cracked, or the cylinder head gasket is faulty, allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Buy a chiltons manual that's specific the the cyl heads your trying to remove. I'm guessing your talking about heads on a car ? By not including a make, model, year , engine size , diesel or gas, overhead cam, naturally aspirated, turbo, fuel injected, carbureted there is no way to answer the question you are asking. Your biggest concern should be on how to reinstall them. Reinstalling heads are far more complex than removing them. All heads are different in the pattern in which they are tightened down ( to prevent warping ) . A specific amount of torque must be applied to each bolt. Some bolts require thread sealant because they pass through the water/coolant passages in the engine. Failure to do that will result in water leaking into you combustion chamber thus ruining your engine as well as your new head. Also the thickness of the head gasket must be correct because to thin or to thick of a gasket will change your engines compression ratio . The gasket thickness can also change your cc's in the combustion chamber. A gasket that's to thin can also allow the exhaust or intake valve to hit the top of the piston on the compression stroke. If your dealing with an overhead cam or dual overhead cam engine then the proper setting of the camshafts when reinstalling the head or heads is crucial . The above only pertained to gas engines. If you have a Diesel engine then things change dramatically . The pressures in the cylinder head combustion chamber area on a Diesel engine is unbelievable . One small mistake or oversight on reinstalling a head on a Diesel engine can be catastrophic .

this is caused by loose compression.

either worn out piston rings or cracks in the combustion chamber.

replace your piston rings and cylinder head gasket. then bring your cylinder head to a machine shop to have it resanded.

if cracks are present in the combustion chamber, then one of the best solution is to have it rebored (to widen the current diameter of the combustion chamber) and replace your pistons with the correct diameter of the new hole.

carbon on sparkplugs are caused by oil in the combustion chamber.

here are some things to do:
1. replace the sparkplug
2. replace your head gasket
3. check if your ignition timing is correct (timing in the distributor, camshaft, and crankshaft)

if these does not solve your problem, try this:
1. have your cylinder head checked for leaks/cracks
2. replace your piston rings

lastly, if all of these dont work, this is the solution (but quite pricey)
1. have your head rebored. reboring the cylinder head means making your combustion chamber wider so cracks/leaks on the wall will be removed.
2. after rebore.. you have 2 options: resleeve or replace piston rings. Resleeve means inserting sleeves in the bored chamber to replace the removed part. replacing pistong rings is also an alternative since your old one will not fit anymore ot the rebored head.

yes... overheating can cause issues in your piston/cylinder head. if your cylinder head is made from aluminum and not metal, overheating can cause cracks and bends in your cylinder head. if this cracks occur inside the combustion chamber, then proper compression cannot be attained. you need to rebore then resleeve your combustion chamber and change the pistons to fix this issue. this will also require resurfacing of cylinder head to ensure that it does not create leaks against crankcase.

Hello. Welcome to FixYa. I am Toyota Ed; I will be assisting you today.

The differences 'side by side' are negligible. The main difference, one that you really cannot determine by the eye, is the size of the combustion chamber. On a supercharged Previa, the compression ratio is markedly lower, because of the supercharged air being sent into the engine. The combustion chamber on a supercharged engine is slightly larger, and the piston domes are shorter.

Note: All turbo and S/C engines have lower compression ratios than a normally asperated engine.

In short, putting a supercharged head on a normally asperated engine will give you very bad acceleration and drivability, due to the increased combustion chamber size. The lower compression of the S/C engine's head on a normal engine will have bad idle, poor acceleration, and bad hesitation.

To tell the difference, you need both variants of cylinder head, and measure the cubic centimeters of the combustion chambers with a liquid. The one that holds more volume is the S/C head.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance today. I hope that my answer helpd you out.

I can tell about a couple of odors from oils that are quite indicative of the places where they oil is leaking into the exhaust though.

You've got a few internal places where oil can get into the engine and even some can get into the combustion chambers. They have distinctive odors and can really help diagnose the cause or reason for the oil consumption.

First let's start with the "sweet-smells".

This means that the oil have gone through the combustion process along with the engine's fuel (gasoline or diesels too!). It is about the same smell you get whiffing the exhaust on a 2-cycle engine with gas-oil premix.

Places where this CAN happen:

1) Cylinder walls ie; piston rings, worn or broken.
2) PCV system where the oil is sucked into the manifold under vacuum and is entrained into the combustion chamber in the normal air-flow to the engine for combustion.
3) Intake runner-to-head surface gasket(s) where the intake can actually **** oil from the cam tray area or the inner valley between the heads and the intake manifold.
4) Occasionally from changing spark plugs in "well" type plug chambers that let the plug get very close to the head through the head casting. Taking a plug out and letting the collected oil fall into the cylinder is usually a temporary situation, but can scare you when it happens.
5) Cracked head or blown head gasket: this usually has to happen where the head has a high pressure passageway for the oil to travel through the head to get to a cam tower on top of the head.
6) Now - here's something that's gonna get debated, fer sure! ONLY the intake valves can leak past their stem seals and allow oil to travel down the stem onto the combustion process. Remember that I am speaking or "sweet" oil smell here.


Now some of the "not sweet" or bitter oil smell:

1) Exhaust guides or stem seals on the EXHAUST valves ONLY can cause a very acrid smell of nasty, eye watering and cough-inducing stink.
2) CVCC or pre-combustion chambers can also cause this problem. The Honda CVCC engines were notorious for this! The auxiliary valve can leak oil into the pre-chamber and then it opens the valve and dumps the burning mess into the main cylinder head area and the results are a bad BAD stink and lots of white/blue smoke.
3) RARELY...very rarely the exhaust port AFTER the exhaust valve seat can become perforated and allow oil to get into the exhaust stream. It does NOT burn here - rather it just cooks-off with a very bad smell.

So-o-o-o

Acrid oil smell - the oil has NOT gone through the combustion process in the cylinder head but is rather "cooked" into a stinky odor. It may or may not smoke too much too.

Sweet oil-burning smell - oil that has been burned as part of the combustion process in the combustion chamber on one or more or even all cylinders.