Question about 1986 Chevrolet Chevy
Stubborn bolts off? Very carefully, with finesse and the slow steady application of force through leverage.
I busted a bolt on my pump and believe me, that was a can of worms I wish I didn't open. Since then I stopped 'bulling' my way through and developed a successful technique.
Get some penetrating oil (usually a little squeeze can with a nozzle) and apply it to the bolt. Depending on the location, this may be difficult. I've used a straw to target those hard to get areas. Just put the straw over the nozzle.
The fact that it's Summer (warm) will help. The oil will penetrate further and the bolt will be less brittle and apt to break. When the oil seems to be drying up add a little more. Let it get in there.
Tools you'll need:
Keeping the socket on target is key. If the socket has a good bite on the bolt, this will work every time.
It sounded like you have removing the pump under control. It was just the stubborn bolt that was the problem. If you need anything else, click on the ASK button.
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Now go get that pump off
This should handle it
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Belt tension is very important, as a belt that is too tight will put too much stress on the bearings of the components it drives, causing them to wear out prematurely. A belt that is too loose will slip, causing (1) the belt to wear out quickly due to friction heat, and (2) inefficient alternator, air pump, cooling fan or air conditioner operation because much of the turning power supplied by the main drive pulley is lost.
The belts should be inspected and/or adjusted at 2,000 miles (3,221 km) and then every 4,000 miles (6,441 km). First, make sure that the belt is properly positioned in the pulley. Check the pulleys for damage. Inspect the belts for cracks and signs of fraying. These usually develop on the inner surface and extend into the backing or outer surface of the belt. Check also for glazing, a completely smooth appearance which indicates slippage. A belt that is in good shape will have a slightly grainy appearance like cloth. Replace belts that show cracks or glazing.
Check belt tension. Apply pressure with your thumb at the mid-point between two pulleys, and the belt should stretch or deflect about 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 in. (6-13mm). If the belt is too tight or too loose, adjust/replace as necessary.
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
To adjust belts, first locate the mounting bolt on the air pump or alternator (each has its own belt and adjusts to permit that belt to be tensioned correctly). This bolt attaches the unit to the engine and has a nut on the end. Put a wrench on either end and loosen the bolt until there is practically no tension on it. Then, loosen the adjusting bolt, which is located on the opposite side of the unit and which passes through a slot. Pull the alternator or air pump away from the engine and tighten the adjusting bolt just enough to hold the unit while you check tension. Repeat the adjustment procedure until the belt deflects the proper amount, then fully tighten the adjusting and mounting bolts. Avoid too much belt tension or overtightening of bolts. A new belt should be tensioned just slightly more (about 0.4 in. or 10mm deflection) and checked after several hundred miles of operation to make sure that tension is still adequate. (Tension is lost very rapidly until a new belt is broken in.)
Fig. Fig. 3: On some GLC engines equipped with power steering, the pump pulley uses a slotted adjusting bar, adjusting bolt and locknut to adjust belt tension
Late model GLCs, 323s, 626s, MX-6s and 929s may use an adjusting bolt on either the idler pulley (a pulley which is not directly associated with any of the accessories) or on the power steering pump itself. This bolt makes adjustment much easier because you don't have to hold the accessory under a great deal of tension while tightening the mounting bolts.
On models where the idler pulley has a locknut at its center, simply loosen the locknut, then turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to increase belt tension or counterclockwise to decrease it or remove the belt. Do not forget to retighten the locknut when tension is correct, or vibration may cause it to fall off. Recheck the tension with the locknut tightened and readjust if necessary.
To adjust the power steering pump pulley on the GLC, loosen the slotted adjusting bar bolt, the mounting bolt across from it, and the locknut at the bottom of the adjusting bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt counterclockwise to remove the belt or reduce tension, and clockwise to increase it. When tension is correct, tighten the adjusting bolt locknut, adjusting bar bolt, and pump mounting bolt.
On 626, MX-6 and 929 models with a 4-ridge or 5-ridge ribbed type V-belt driving both the air conditioner and power steering pump, belt tension is much greater. With a used belt, deflection should only be about 1 / 4 in. (6.35mm).
See Figures 4, 5 and 6
The RX-7 may be equipped with as many as three or four separate drive belts. The belts are arranged at the front of the engine and drive the cooling fan/water pump, alternator, power steering pump, emission control air pump and air conditioner compressor (if so equipped).
Fig. Fig. 4: Checking belt tension on 1979-85 RX-7
Check the tension of each belt at the arrows numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 (depending on year) shown in the illustration. Press on the belt with your thumb using moderate pressure (about 22 lbs.). The belts should give or deflect the amounts shown in the chart.
Fig. Fig. 6: RX-7 belt deflection limits
Use the following appropriate procedure and illustration to make drive belt adjustment(s).
ALTERNATOR AND AIR PUMP
See Figure 7
Fig. Fig. 7: Adjusting alternator drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
When prying on the alternator or air pump, make sure the prybar is anchored against the engine case and not against a component (distributor cap, etc.) which could break.
Fig. Fig. 8: Adjusting air conditioning compressor drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
Fig. Fig. 9: Adjusting power steering pump drive belt tension on 1986-89 RX-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
May 27, 2012 | 1989 Mazda 323
on Aug 15, 2010 | Chrysler Town & Country Cars & Trucks
Feb 16, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Chevrolet Cavaliers have power steering installed as standard equipment. The power steering is assisted with hydraulic pressure generated by the power steering pump. The pump circulates the fluid and makes turning the steering wheel very light and responsive to the touch. A sure sign the power steering pump is failing is when steering becomes more laborious; also look for leaking power steering fluid puddled under the car. Removing a power steering pump is not a difficult project and is the first step to repairing the power steering system.
The serpentine belt on the front of the Cavalier's engine provides the power to operate the power steering pump. You have to first remove the belt to free the power steering pump's drive pulley. Underneath the Cavalier is a spring-tensioned pulley keeping the serpentine belt taut. Use a socket wrench to grab the center hex nut on the tension pulley and turn it so the belt becomes loose. Remove the belt from the pulley and then from the other wheels and pulleys on the engine.
A tube runs from the pump to the power steering assist mechanism in the Cavalier near the front axle. This hard tube has two fittings on each end for a connection. Use a box-end wrench to disconnect one end of the tube underneath the Cavalier. Be careful because some power steering fluid will leak. Just hold your finger over the hole and set a container underneath the tube and wait for the fluid to drain.
Once the fluid finishes draining use the box-end wrench to disconnect the tube from the power steering pump. The tube is bent and twists to make its way through the engine bay from the pump to the power steering assist. There's no need to remove it from the bay. Just push it aside.
The power steering pump is bolted directly onto the engine block. To remove the pump, unscrew the fasteners securing it to the engine. There may or may not be thread lock compound used to seal the bolts onto the engine. If the bolts do not easily turn use some force to break the thread lock. Do not worry about doing this. Breaking thread lock is the only way to get a bolt free. Once the bolts are out, lift the pump out of the engine bay. Again, though, be careful because as you move the pump some remaining power steering fluid may drain from the access port where the tubing was connected. You might want to get a shop towel to hold over the port when moving the pump to avoid a dripping mess.
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