Question about 1993 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Brake pedal going down to far before engaging abs

Should master cylinder be filled to top of resevoir. there is no line on how high the fluid should be on outside walls of container.

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Theres a fill to notch under the cap

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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2 Answers

02 Ford Explorer sporttrac xlt. New rotors calipers pads and master cylinder. Bled it twice stream looks good new fluid. One day breaks stick then the next no breaks Break light on Proportional valve?


For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
CERACOAT-NANOTECH.com

Apr 21, 2015 | 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

2 Answers

Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have bled brakes after replacing 2 lines, wheel cylinders,master cylinder and pedal goes way down when truck is running


Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up first. Often times it helps to let the system "gravity bleed" for a while. Open the bleeder screws and let gravity do the rest. Keep the master filled up and catch the run off at the wheel.Let it bleed until the fluid runs steady in a clear stream. This will remove most of the air in the system. Then you can do the "pump the pedal" thing.

Did you " bench bleed" the master cylinder before you put it on the truck? If not, do it now. Simply remove the brake lines from the master and replace them with short open lines to a bucket or even back into the master. Fill the resevoir and pump the cylinder until there are absolutely no bubbles coming out of the short lines. Then reattach the brake lines and start all over with the bleeding process. Hope this helps.

Sep 25, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Abs light is on, the brake pedal goes down to the floor and vehicle will not stop


first,check to see if there is any fluid in the brake resoviori-it is located directly in front of the driver, under the hood by the firewall (up top)-if it is empty or very low, fill it. Look for leaks, especially around the insides of the wheels. You probably have a damaged line in either the calipers, wheel cylinders or a blown brake line.

Sep 20, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

1992 olds regency ninty eight. Break pedal seems to go down futher than it should when applying. when stopped at a light brake pedal seems to slip going further down some. Checked for leaks on brake lines...


if master cylinder is bad. the pedal will go to floor running or not.when the pedal goes down at a standing stop it is usually the master cylinder thats bad. and losing vacuum. thats if there are no other leaks at wheel cylinders etc. if putting on a new master cylinder, do not forget to bench bleed it! heres how. put the master cylinder in the vise, fill it full of fluid then pump the plunger with a dowel or something soft as to not ruin plunger part.do not let it run dry ! when fluid comes out from master cylinder and no more air is in it. fill it up and put on car. heres what I do! remove the lines from old cylinder on car. as long as you do not lose any fluid doing this, there is no need to bleed air from brakes when done. after on car make sure master cylinder is full of fluid. start the car and pump the brakes a few times, then you should be all set.

Aug 29, 2011 | 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

3 Answers

I am having an issue where the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor before it will work. From what I understand it may be the brake master cylinder malfunctioning. I am considering replacing it...


Check the vacuum booster first
Shut the car off after it idles for 3 minutes
Apply your foot on the brake and hold
If the pedal seems hard at first and did not go down all the way keep your foot on it for two more minutes
If the pedal gradually goes down to the floor the brake booster is leaking
If not start the car and let idle again
\With the car still idling step on the brake pedal again and hold
If the pedal goes to the floor in a second the master is shot instead

Jun 22, 2010 | 1986 Toyota Camry

3 Answers

While driving my 1994 Honda Accord the brakes went out. I can only get the car to stop if I press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor. When the car is shut off and I pump the brake pedal, I can...


There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.

Feb 21, 2010 | 1994 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes too far to the floor on initial application, pumping brings the pedal up, bled several times


Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder, an external brake fluid leak (such as a leaking brake line), or extreme misadjustment or binding of the calipers or drums. Any could be the case, and you can eliminate the last 2 rather easily. Do you see any sign of fluid coming from any of the brake lines? If not, move to adjustments. Check the calipers for bound up caliper pins and if equiped with rear drum brakes, the adjustment and condition of the rear shoes. After that, go right for the throat and replace the master cylinder. Be sure to bench bleed it before you install it, and if you have ABS, make sure you also bleed the ABS system, OR if you can't bleed the ABS system have the new master cylinder ready to install, and remove the brake lines as quickly as possible from the old master and have a friend hold thier fingers over the ends of the lines. I do this quite a bit at my shop, and it's VERY rare that I actualy need to bleed the ABS after replacing a master cylinder if little to no air gets in the brake lines.

Dec 10, 2009 | 2000 Subaru Outback

2 Answers

Brake fluid in brand new 1989 ford ranger clutch slave


no it doesn't come filled basically you bleed it like a brake system. Fill the master cylinder and pump the clutch, there is a bleeder on the slave cylinder

Dec 08, 2008 | 1989 Ford Ranger

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