Question about 2007 Toyota Corolla

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Engine noise there is a noise coming from the overhead cam. sounds like a loose tappet. the valve clearance may be a little tight rather than losse.( inlet 20) (outlet25) the noise only appers when the engine starts to warm up.4A FE engine. could you please help

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  • Anonymous Jul 26, 2008

    I have a 2007 Toyota S w/23k on it and I also have a loud tapping noise coming from the overhead cam area on the left side of the engine. It appears to be coming from inside the engine head itself. Extreamly annoying! Dealer says its fine, but I have listened to atleast 3 other models and they don't make the same noise. Has there ever been a recall that you maybe aware of? or any idea of what it might be? Thank you for your response.





  • Anonymous Jul 26, 2008

    .aaaa

  • rod_walker Jan 10, 2009

    I have a 2007 corolla that I bought new. About a month ago I started noticing engine vibration. When I pop the hood I see the motor vibrating and I notice the whole car is vibrating if I simply put my hand on the car body - car has 15,000 miles on it. Vibration increases when transmission is in drive - Dealer said the throttle body was dirty - put Tectron in - said I should try higher grade gas other then 87 octane? This didn't fix problem. Took it back again this time dealer said baffle on oil intake was bent down and touching cam shaft - they bent back up. Still no change. I might add I change my own oil "full synthetic every 3 months 10w - 30 and I never! bent baffle adding oil. Could motor mounts be bad? - Or some kind of valve problem.

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Hi there , it can be lose . i think you better to check your cam shaft .
there is one things your have to think about them
- oiling system ( oil pump , pressure valve , oil type ) focus in these

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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It could be the tension pully that wears out, Its not easy to check if it is bad, but what it does is, it does not put enough tension on the serpentine belt (spring wears out). that will make it squeal all the time.get it check.

Posted on Jun 22, 2008

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How do I fix the tapping sound from the engine when i accelerate after it has reached running temperature


Adjust the valve tappets (yes, they 'tap') AKA Rockers or find out why the hydraulic self adjusting tappets don't work?

They transfer the downward motion of the cams on the camshaft to depress the valves. There is a thin clearance of about 8 thousandths of an inch with the engine cold. As the engine heats the clearance reduces. Over tightening causes the valve edges to burn, too much clearance causes tapping.

Manual tappets get quieter usually as the engine heats. Hydraulic tappets gets worse as the engine heats as the oil thins.

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A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
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A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
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6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

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Valve Clearance Valve clearance is there to allow the valves to cool in between combustion events (spark), and to make sure the valve closes properly and contains the combustion explosion. You need to cool the valves a little bit, the exhaust valve moreso than the inlet, as it's what sees the most heat as spent burnt gases go past it into the exhaust port. Run too little clearance and you'll cause the valve to "weld" a little bit to its' seat every time it closes, and then take seat metal off again when it opens. Do this enough times and you burn out the valve seat and need the head reconditioned. However, by running less clearance, the valve stays open for that little but longer, and you get more air in and out of the motor, and make more power. Run too much clearance and your motor just sounds like a diesel and loses power and tappet rattle annoys you while you're driving, so it's better to err on the side of caution.
The stock valve clearance (0.008" inlet / 0.012" exhaust, warm) is pretty good for any of the cams I've listed above, they're well-sized street cams, not really wild top heavy race cams that require super high compression to work, so don't be afraid to close the valves up a bit from the suggestions of the cam grinder, which will usually say between 0.010" and 0.014". There are a few ways to set your valve clearances:
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Nine Method I've never really gotten into doing this, takes too much time and maths for my liking :P Rotate the engine through its' range of movement, as one valve is "on the rock" of its' max lift, subtract the valve number from 9 and that's the tappet you should be setting. For example, if #8 valve is open, set clearance on valve #1. If valve #7 is open, set clearance on #2. And so on.
Stewart uses this method, and rotates the camshaft through its entire base circle and sets the clearance at the highest point. Which is a pretty good idea, as it compensates for the possibility that the base circle has been ground unevenly, and allows you to run the proper valve clearance that you want to run, instead of something that may be a few thou larger in reality.

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A worn rocker arm with a bearing problem will make more noise during acclleration.

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