Headlamps will not go on. All other lights, including highbeams, work fine. I replaced the headlight switch, verified all connections (including those for the switch) were clean and tight, and double-checked all fuses. Still no headlights!! Any ideas?
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Re: 1995 ford aerostar headlamps
First check with a meter or test lamp that you are actually getting 12V at the switch contact.
There is a common problem on fords that they will not take uprated lights. This results in melted column switches before the fuse blows.
This was rectified on later models by fitting a relay as you describe.
If you don't have 12V at the switch, then remove the fuse panel to check the back of the fuse, and the wiring there.
If you do have 12V at the stalk contacts, then the relay is usually located in the engine bay fusebox.
If you trace the wires from the lights, they should go straight to it. You may have to dismount the fuseboard to see underneath properly. Worth checking all those fuses too!
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from the diagram I looked at, voltage to headlamp switch is hot all the time. The headlamp switch has an internal circuit breaker. When you turn on headlamps, the voltage goes from headlamp switch to dimmer switch then to the headlamps. You could have problem with dimmer switch?
It sounds like you have a bad dimmer switch. The dimmer switch is located at the left floor pan area. Your husband can disconnect the connector and use a jumper wire to get the headlamps working long enough to get home. Then, when it is more convenient, replace the switch.
Your vehicle is equipped with an "Auto Lamp" system. The headlamps will stay on for as long as 3 minutes depending on how you have the control set. If you are certain that this is not the problem and/or your headlamps will not turn off after 3 minutes, perform these checks:
1. CHECK HEADLAMP SWITCH OPERATION
Ensure that the headlamp switch is off. Disconnect the headlamp switch connectors. If the headlamps go foff, replace the headlamp switch. If the headlamps are still on, go to the next step.
2. CHECK CIRCUIT No. 15
Remove autolamp parking lamp relay from the under hood Power Distribution Center (PDC), near the battery. If the headlamps are off, go to the next step. If the headlamps are still on, repair the short to battery voltage in circuit No. 15 (RED/YELLOW wire).
3. CHECK AUTOLAMP RELAY GROUND CIRCUIT
Remove the autolamp parking light relay from the PDC. Measure the resistance between ground (BATTERY NEGATIVE) and terminal No. 2 (DARK BLUE/ORANGE wire) at the autolamp relay wiring harness connector. If resistance is 5 Ohms or less, continue to the next step. If the resistance is more than 5 Ohms, replace the autolamp relay.
4. CHECK THE LIGHT SENSOR AMPLIFIER
Reconnect all components. Disconnect the light sensor amplifier located in the defroster grille on the top of the dash. If the headlamps are off, replace the light sensor amplifier. If the headlamps are on, repair short to ground in circuit No. 218 (WHITE/PURPLE wire) to the headlamp switch.
there should be another fuse / relay box under the hood - the headlamps will probably have a fuse and a relay. if the fuse is ok - try swapping the headlamp relay with another in the box - if all is ok start looking at the headlamp and or highbeam switches
Daytime Running Lamps
The daytime running lamp (DRL) system is designed to turn the high beam headlamps on, with a reduced light output, and without illuminating the high beam indicator lamp in the instrument panel. You have a DRL Module.
The multifunction switch is the stalk on your column.
This is 96 F150 circuit. Don't have 94.
Symptom Chart, Headlamps
Damaged headlamp switch.
GO to Pinpoint Test A .
Headlamps On Continuously
Damaged headlamp switch.
GO to Pinpoint Test B .
High Beams or Low Beams Inoperative
Damaged multi-function switch.
GO to Pinpoint Test C .
One High Beam or One Low Beam Headlamp Inoperative
The low beam headlamps have a seperate fuse for each lamp in the central or underdash fuse panel.
The right headlamp is fuse fuse 26 (10amp) and the left is fuse 28 (10 amp). These fuse are hot only when headlamps are on so you need to test them with a test light with headlamps on. If they do not have power to them then concern is either headlamp switch or daytime running lamp relay if your vehicle is equipped with this feature, or a bad multifunction switch.
Power leaves the headlamp switch on the RD/YE wire and goes to multifunction switch. It leaves multifunction switch on the other RD/YE wire The wire will then go thru either a connector c2003 located behind the passenger side air bag behind the dash or to the DRL relay if your vehicle has this feature and leaves there on RD/BK wire to the headlights .
The headlight module is a well engineered electronic black box . If you have an electronics background you can repair it.contact me firstname.lastname@example.org.If you have difficulty with the difference between an amp and a volt a replacement is available at your local dealer for about $150.