Question about 1994 Chrysler LeBaron

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No brakes - 1994 Chrysler LE, NO ABS

Proportioner/metering COMBO valve issues, or could there be something I missed?
I started doing brake jobs in my fathers MOPAR shop something like 45 years ago, so I am not a newbee. However, this one, on my own work vehicle has me stumped.
1994 Chrysler LE sedan, NO ABS, 3.0 engine, disc fronts, drum rears, 99K miles.
Last fall, noted RR wheel cylinder was leaking. Drove it 34 miles RT to work by topping off the MC once a month. Then one day, virtually no brakes. I thought I heard a POP as they failed, but can not be sure. I had topped off the MC when arriving at work that morning (was not down over 50%). I ended up limping home with what seemed as only the RF locking up. It seemed like it took 40 ft or more to hog it down from 25mph or less. Due to health and money issues, I parked it for the fall, which became Minnesota winter and then spring. I replaced both RR and LR wheel cylinders with new ones, replaced shoes and hardware - all from Checker Auto, adjusted shoes and bled lines to the tune of two pints of fluid run through. Still, the pedal goes right to the floor and the BRAKE light stays on just as it did that fateful day last fall.
I then turned to the master cylinder. Eyeball check looked like there might be some leakage from the rear, tracking on the Booster. Picked up a rebuilt from AutoZone, bench bled per instrution and installed. Neither self or helper can tell any improvement in pedal.
This leaves the proportioning/combo valve and the Booster. The Booster would not cause zero brakes, so have not as yet done vacuum check. I have the MOPAR shop manual for the car, and none of the troubleshooting paths lead to the proportioning valve even though there is very little information about this little wonder AND I should be getting diagonal breaking at the least.
Is it possible for the prop valve to faile such that fluid is bypassed through it and cycles between the Primary and Secondary or the Master Cylinder without doing any braking work and thus no pedal resistance?
Your help would be most welcome. The vehicle is unsafe to drive and I hate to spend $100 or more for a tow to a brake shop.
THANKS!
Tom

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  • Tom Patridge Jul 09, 2008

    I did take the MC back to Autozone and received a replacement without any problems. However, have same symptoms after bench bleeding that replacement. Am still looking at the proportioner (metering, combination) valve, but the MOPAR shop manual merely outlays the design and gives some tests using high pressure gauges, which I do not have access to. The only failure outlined involves either left or right rear drum brake lockup...not the problem...still only the right front disc locks up and aids in stopping.
    Anyone had any prop. valve backround?
    THANKS AGAIN

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Replacing Rear Brake Pads and Rotors
Replacing Front Brake Pads and Rotors

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

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Replace the proportioning valve this eqalizes the pressure to all four brakes,when you ran the fluid out in the back brakes,the piston in the valve pushed forward and wont balance the piston in the valve back,you have to replace,which is easy but one you pull out the vavle and look at it youll see what i mean

Posted on Jul 09, 2008

  • derek martin Jul 09, 2008

    on race cars they use a valve with a knob so the can adjust manually,more pressure to the front or the back,but stock oem cars like yours the valve balances automatically,once its pushed to far to one side you cant get the brake fluid pressure to push it back to center

  • derek martin Jul 09, 2008

    let me know if you need more info,most people never have this problem cause soon as a brake line,or cylinder leaks they have it fixxed and it never has the chance to go pass the point of no return,but as you kept filling and letting leak out it happened to you,

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Hi,

It would appear that you have performed most if not all of the regular brake jobs/checks required, perhaps we just need to go back to/review the basics. To my knowledge, with or without the booster, there would be pedal resistance if all the lines are attached and are terminated with their corresponding slaves. Pressing on the pedal pushes the the primary and secondary pistons of the master. Due to design the piston would also serve as one way valve allowing brake fluid to come in from the reservoir but not get back up but/and out only through the rear and front port.This action alone should provide the pedal with some resistance since the piston is applying pressure to the brake fluid to pass through a smaller diameter brake line. Additionally, again based on design, the front and rear braking system are independent of each other since the master would have a separate piston for each brake circuit. No resistance even at this point is indicative that both the rubber seals of the master brake cylinder are not providing adequate sealing and the fluid passes through it back and forth not only forward as required.

At this point, I would strongly suggest checking over the master brake cylinder or return it to AutoZone for a check/replacement.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Jun 22, 2008

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This is one of the best link i will provide you to solve your problem on your own, as you have a good auto part reparing knowledge please do not forget to rate as you solve your problem

http://www.ptdoityourself.net/tl/tl_index1.html#5

in this link go to technical library for further help in technical library go to brakes column and then you can just get your solution their.

feel free 4 further assistance .rate the particular experts solution as fixya that helps u understand n solve ur problem

Posted on Jun 22, 2008

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