Question about 1996 Subaru Impreza

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Cv half axles

What tools are needed to change a cv half axle?

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  • tconley3 Jun 21, 2008

    the car is a 1996 subaru impreza, i was also informed i needed a specialized tool to remove the axle, is this true?

  • tconley3 Sep 04, 2008

    Thank you so much for your input I could'nt have done this job without your help. I did lose some skin and the two pound sledge was my best friend. I run a concrete plant in the Bahamas and a sledge hammer is my best friend. Thanks for your help. Be Cool

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    How to change the axle cv boots

  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

    4x4 dr. side front

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You can buy axles for most Subaru cars at http://www.subaruaxles.com

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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Hey tconley3
I have done the front CV half axles in my '96 WRX and did not require a special tool, mine was an Auto, but I suspect a manual car is similar. Firstly, while the car is on the ground, unlock the lock tab and loosen the main hub nut - it can be very tight. Then lift the car up off its wheels and use stands to make sure it is safe and won't fall on you - I have a hoist which is really nice. Take off the wheel, brake caliper (I hang this by a piece of wire from the spring, saves disconnecting and bleeding the brakes) and take off the disc. Take off the main hub nut. Then release the two strut to hub carrier bolts and then knock them out. Note that they are slightly different - put them back the way they came out. The hub will now hang down on the bottom ball joint. At this stage you should be able to push the drive shaft back out of the hub assembly. This is not easy, but I managed to do mine. If this cannot be done then I guess you would need to take the hub off completely by releasing the bottom ball joint. You now have the drive shaft hanging down from the gearbox. The shaft is on a spline. Inside the gearbox on the end of the spline is a radial groove on which sits a wire ring. I assume this is to stop the shaft falling out. As you pull the shaft out, this wire ring comes up against a taper in the gearbox which is supposed to compress the wire ring into the groove and allow the axle to come out. Sometimes this does not happen easily and you will need to **** it out. If it wont come out because the spline or the wire ring is damaged you have a major, major problem which I can't help you with - Gearbox disassembly I suspect. Anyway, that should have the shaft sitting on the floor. The axle shaft pulls out of the CV the same way (spline, wire ring thing). Assembly is easy, but in the reverse order. Use the factory torque settings for all the main nuts/bolts. A few things: get the wheel alignment done after the job. If you cannot get the disc caliper back on the disc, use a "G" clamp and gently push the caliper pistons back into the caliper a bit which will allow you more room between the disc and pistons. If you do this, you will need to gently pump the brake pedal a couple of times to restore the pedal, it will go straight to the floor on the first application - don't find this out on the way out of the shop!!!! Be prepared to loose some skin and get very dirty. If possible, when you have finished, get someone else to check all the bolts for tightness, leaving some of these loose could cause a serious accident.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Keith

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

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How to remove a CV joint on 1996 Honda Accord


If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Oct 19, 2014 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

What tools are needed to chang rear cv joint in a 2002 mercury mountaineer


Basic tools..remove wheel, remove axle nut, remove brake caliper, remove lower control arm bolts,remove the bolt for upper control arm, remove the outer tie rod bolt, support vehicle and suspension, the hardest part is getting the axle out of the rear diff, sometimes a simple pry bar will pop it out, but I've run into a lot where you either need the special pickle fork or even have to remove the complete rear diff with axle still attached, remove cover and take out c clip.if you continue prying and hammering between inner cv joint and diff, you will cause damage to diff.the cv joint is steel, cast maybe, and diff is aluminum so guess what will be damaged first? That'll lead into a pretty expensive repair.the special tool to remove axle is 205-529

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What is the difference between a cv half shaft and cv axle shaft?


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When I make a left turn there is a noise coming from the front drivers side wheel, someone told me it was the boot, where is it


Hello rkayet,

They may have been referring to the CV axle boot. When the CV axle boot gets damaged dirt and water get into the CV joint and wear the internal parts, this typically causes a clicking noise when turning.

Unless you have the tools to rebuild the CV axle it's best to buy a rebuilt CV axle (sometimes called a half shaft) from your local auto parts store.

Regards,
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I need to know if special tools are needed to replace the drivers side CV joint on my 2000 Ford Windstar.


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there are tow types, with ABS and W/O ABS, they come as a half shaft assmebly, this is a axle and CV joint together. here are the 2 part numbers for left and right axle with CV joint. Price and Part s are from www.rockauto.com, the lowest price on the internet I could find, very fast shipping.

THESE ARE FOR THE RIGHT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
A-1 CARDONE Part # 604153 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
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A-1 CARDONE Part # 604152 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
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THESE ARE LEFT SIDE AXLE AND CV JOINT ASSEMBLY.
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A-1 CARDONE Part # 604150 {[CV Half-Shaft Assembly] Reman.}
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on this type of vehichle, you have two axles in the front; one going to each side. Chances are that the boot at the axle joint was torn and that is why you are having problem. In teh past people used to replace the boot, this day and age its actually cheaper to replace the axle. So you would need to replace that side of the axle (the half shaft).

Nov 19, 2008 | 1994 Geo Prizm

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