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Need more info....Did it break off because of being factory crossthreaded or was it just a freak accident ?....They make easy out tools for that but you have to carefully drill through it...Can you not get vise-grips on it ...or is it broken flush flat with the block...In any case you need to start spraying it with PB Blast to help loosen it up...Dont use WD-40..it is no good...SPray wih PB Blast let set off and on for a few hours ...Maybe even let set overnight and soak if it is that bad...However you need to let me know how bad it is and I will help guide you through it...After 7 at night.......Want to help..Level 2 Chrysler Tech....Metalpoet
If its not getting spark the choices are limited. You already replaced the coil pack so whats left is ignition module, crank sensor, knock sensor, cam sensor, or the timing was not was not set properly when putting it back together. Any one of those would create a no spark situation.
I bought one with the same problem, the mechanic chaged: camshaft sensor (it was ok), the coil pack (was ok too), the pcmodule( ok too) the arness (ok) and did not start. I checked timing belt and was ok. but wen I did the compresion test , every cilynder was too low ( 10 30 an 0), my firsth idea was head gasket replecement,and wen was remooving the camshaft sprocket Bingo: the small pin was broken (that means that the camshaft sprocket was not align in time) Had to chage the head an the camshaft both in terrible shape. bad lobes and cam bearings worn out. wen I crancked it start at the first time. PD. the head wasnt craked, the head gasket was good too and the valves ok .
remove your valve cover and have someone try to crank it over while you watch the camshaft to see if it turns, your timing belt may have jumped a tooth ( causes bad running and back fire ) and then broke
you will need to open the engine up if you can not turn the cam fully. something has been bent or broken or else it will turn. by breaking your timing belt was it shredded? if so you do have internal damage
YOU NEED TO CHECK DARK GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT IGNITION COIL WHEN CRANKING ENGINE FOR POWER..IF NO POWER,SHUTDOWN RELAY IS NOT BEING ENERGIZED..THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON END OF CYLINDER HEAD..ENGINE CONTROLLER NEEDS CAM AND CRANK SIGNALS TO ENERGIZE THE SHUTDOWN RELAY..UNPLUG CRANK SENSOR AND CHECK VOLTAGE ON ORANGE WIRE..SHOULD HAVE APPROX 8V..IF NOT..UNPLUG CAM SENSOR AND SEE IF 8V SUPPLY RETURNS..IF NO POWER TRY UNPLUGGING VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOCATED IN TRANS HOUSING WHERE RIGHT SIDE AXLE COMES OUT OF TRANS..IF 8V RETURNS..THE SPEED SENSOR IS SHORTED INTERNALLY..THESE 3 SENSORS SHARE THE SAME 8V SUPPLY CIRCUIT..WITH SPEED SENSOR UNPLUGGED,PLUG CRANK SENSOR BACK IN AND TRY TO START ENGINE..HAVE SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM AT WORK RECENTLY
I do not have good news for you.
According to the Gates Timing Belt guide 2002 Edition, both engines offered in the Dodge Neon are interference engines.
This means that your engine has likely sustained sgnificant valve, cylinder head or even piston damage. Have you tested the compression?
It is probably least expensive to buy a used engine, change its timing belt and replace your engine with that one.