Brake pad change? On my 2002 Suburban 4WD with ABS do I need to open the bleed screws on the caliper when compressing the piston? Or is keeping the lid loose on the master cylinder and removing some fluid enough? Thanks, P

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

When changing pads and you push the caliper in for the new pad you should open the bleed screws. , then close and re-assemble. press pedal and open bleed screw and let it drip a little . gravity bleed. Did you turn the read caliper piston in and then press it down? The rear piston must be aligned with the pad. Did you pump the parking brake to reset?

Hi there,

The pads are easy to change. You do not need any special tools. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4.

One last tip. When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

This is how to get it done:

• Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important). Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw.
• Install new pad and caliper
• Bleed again. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.

Glad to be of help!!!

YOU NEED A PISTON COMPRESS TOOL TO PRESS PISTON BACK IN THE BORE WITH THE BLEEDER SCREW OPEN ON THE CALIPER*.CLOSE BLEEDER SCREW JUST BEFORE THE CALIPER PISTON IS PUSHED FULLY INTO CALIPER.THIS WILL ALLOW ROOM FOR NEW BRAKE PADS AND CALIPER FIT OVER THE BRAKE ROTOR.WHEN FINISH.PUTTING BRAKE PADS ON YOU HAVE TO BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE VECHICLE IF YOU CANT GET A GOOD FIRM BRAKES.

No, see procedure below listed at autozone.com. Try opening bleeder. You may have a kink somewhere or hose decomposing internally. Else the piston is locked in place. Was the brake working before replacing pads?

1. Remove 1 / 2 of the volume of brake fluid from the master cylinder to prevent overflow when the caliper piston is compressed.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the brake caliper without disconnecting the brake line. Support the caliper with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose.
   NOTE On some disc brake systems it is not necessary to remove the caliper when installing new brake pads. Remove the lower slide bolt and rotate the caliper upward to remove the pads.
   
5. Remove the brake pads and shims. Inspect the brake rotor and machine or replace as necessary. Check the minimum thickness (specification is cast into the rotor) before machining.

To install:

1. Use a suitable tool to push the caliper piston into its bore.
2. Apply a thin coat of grease to the rear face of the brake pad and install the shim. Install the brake pads.
3. Install the calipers. Lubricate the caliper bolts and boots. If equipped with a 4-cylinder engine, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm). If equipped with a 6-cylinder engine, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
4. Install the wheel and tire assemblies and lower the vehicle.
5. Apply the brakes several times to seat the pads before moving the vehicle. Check the fluid in the master cylinder and add as necessary.

no you dont have to open bleeder,you will not mess anything up i do it all day long, the reason for opening the bleeder is so they say you dont push debris from caliper into abs, but every time you step on the brake and release it fluid is flow in and out of abs, if you feel better by opening bleeder go ahead youll just have to bleed brakes when your done , good luck, hope this is helpful.

Special tool is a 1" cube with tabs on each side that fits into indentations on the brake piston and can be purchased for $10-12 @ most discount parts stores. Use 3/8" ratchet with short extension and 'special tool to carefully turn piston onto internal hand brake screw. Take care to not tear dust boot. When piston is fully collapsed, make sure to align piston indentations perpendicular to brake pad as there are bumps on pad that fit into them. Also while screwing in piston either remove about 2/3 of brake fluid in master cylinder and refil afterwords or open the bleeder valve on brake piston assembly. Bleed if necessary.

If the question is how to compress the brake caliper, this is done using a larger C-clamp. Make sure to watch both sides as compressing one side may cause the brake fluid to push the other side out further. This causes a big mess and is easier to avoid than to remedy.

I assume you need to know how to compress the piston into the brake caliper. With the caliper mounted on the spindle, open the bleed screw slightly then gently press against the brake pad to compress the piston. Close the bleed screw. Once you have the caliper removed from the vehicle, open the bleed screw and compress the piston the rest of the way using a piston compressor or channel-locks. Close the bleed screw when you are finished.

u will need to check the wheel speed sensors behind the brake rotors to see if they got damaged or disconnected during the brake job, as long as the ABS light is on the Anti-lock brake system is disabled, regular braking without the need of ABS will feel fine.