Question about 1997 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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Truck won't start. New starter about month a go. Truck will push start easily and stay running. Charging system is working (battery stays around 12.65 and 13 running or off) Power is going to starter. Any idea where we should look next????

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  • aussiedawgz Jun 20, 2008

    Thanks! we checked all that now, but it seems to be something to do with the clutch? It doesn't seem to be engaging? Not sure,-ever hear of something like this? or are we looking at this in the wrong direction? thanks

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You should check the fender mounted Starter solenoid, and what type of power is going to your starter? constant Battery Power Or Start Power if you have both then you should check your Engine to Chassis ground Strap for a loose connection. Good luck!

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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Maybe it wasn't running long enough to charge up the battery?
Stop trying to jump it, when you are having problems with it dying, take the battery off and have it charged. And/or buy a $20 voltmeter to see what the battery shows. If it says less than 12 volts, it is discharged, and needs charging. A good battery that is not run down should have at least 12.5 volts. A new battery that is charged should have very close to 13 volts, maybe 12.8 volts.
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I have a 1994 f-150 pick up got a new battery & when i put the heat on it discharges & now truck won't.


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I have a 1984 dodge D150, not charging, battery is good,charges with charger\r\ntruck starts and runs pretty good,but is running off of battery, NEW altenater,regulator,and belts belts are tight,replaced...


The first thing you need to do is stop wasting your money by replacing parts. Then get a volt-ohm meter and a test light to test the circuits between the battery, the alternator, the ignition switch, the starter relay and the voltage regulator. (a.k.a. Charging System Circuits)

To start, the "B+" or "BATT" terminal on the alternator (large black wire) MUST have a solid, direct connection to the battery. Check for the proper voltage here. Then, the red wire on the alternator at the "F2" terminal should be HOT at all times. If not, you probably still have a bad fuse link that you missed. The "F1" terminal on the alternator (Light Green wire) is known as your "FIELD" wire. It comes from the "IG" terminal at the voltage regulator. It should be hot any time the key is in the ON position. If not, your voltage regulator is not working or your ignition switch is not providing power to the regulator. Finally, The "F" terminal (Red wire) at the regulator should be hot any time the ignition switch is in the ON position. This actually gets it's power from the starter relay, which gets its power from the ignition switch.

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Assuming you replaced the solenoid with the starter, it may be the relay. If the relay is not making a good connection, it might have trouble throwing the solenoid. The relay should be in the relay box under the hood. You can break the relay open and watch it work while someone turns the key to verify the problem.

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Had door to f150 open for awhile truck was running all of a sudden it shut off and i cant get it restarted. just clicking noise and panel not working lights dim HELP!!! its done this once before when i was...


Sounds like a problem with the recharging system.

If you had a lot of electrical running such as headlights, stereo, interior lights, heater etc there is a large draw on the electrical system. At idle you could run the battery down. Jump start would solve the problem.

The clicking you hear could be one of two things.
1. The starter relay operating. This sound would come from the fuse box.

2. The starter solenoid engaging the stater motor. This would come from close to the engine where the starter is mounted. If the power is low the solenoid engages the starter but there in not enough power to turn the engine over. Again a jump start would solve this.

Sometimes it will go later after everything is shut down and the battery has time to "relax" from the draw or the temperature is higher. All can help a start.

You may have a weakening battery that is having trouble holding a full charge. A battery shop can bench test the battery for you.

If it is OK if could be a failing charging system.

If you have has a squeaking sound at idle or when cold and wet your alternator belt may be loose. It can be easily tightened.

If not your alternator may be weakening. Again a repair shop can test for output. Or simply test with a voltage tester to see the output.

If all is OK it could be more advanced in your charging system. For a do it yourself fix. Go the the library and get a copy of the Bently service manual for your yr of vehicle make model.

Adrian

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