Question about 1990 Mazda 323
I have the same model of car, and I have had this problem before. It is normally the ignition module. Check that the coil has power going to it, using a voltmeter. The coil should have 3 wires connected to it. One is the big HT lead, and then there are two small wires, one on either side of the coil. One of the wires is for the constant 12volt power source, the other is the control wire. With the ignition switched on, you should be able to read 12volts at one of these wires.
The other wire is the control wire, it receives pulses from the ignition module that is inside the distributor. Effectively this switches the output of the coil on and off, and controls when the spark plug will fire. It is difficult to detect these pulses without proper equipment, but a multimeter set to AC might be able to detect the presence of an AC voltage (although it probably wont accurately display the correct voltage), which would indicate that the ignition module is working.
If the pulses are not present at the input of the coil, then your ignition module is probably the culprit.
Open the distributor, and remove the rotor button. There is a round plastic cover over the ignition module, which must be removed. The ignition module is semi circular, and has four wires attached to it, via small screws. Take note of the location of each wire, and unscrew each one. The ignition module can be unscrewed with a phillips head screw driver, and removed. When fitting the replacement module, you must cover it with the heat sink compound that is supplied with the new module (mechanics sometimes refer to this compound as ignition module grease). Without the heat sink compound, the new module will over heat, and burn out. You should be able to replace the module in 15 minutes, it is very easy to do.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
If your engine is equipped with electronic distributor then you should check the module control unit,the igniter and power supply inside or the wire plug lead.
Posted on Jun 22, 2008
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