If your engine cranks normally
but will not start and cuts off because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart
because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:
A bad pickup inside the
distributor a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic
distributor drive gears, broken, loose
or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
If there is power going from the coil to the dist, but no spark coming out of the dist. the Condenser is bad. Small round thing that has a wire that hooks to the points. If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.
If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).
If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).
If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.You can check this with voltmeter.------------------
That's it.
I have a 1988 toyota 4-runner that had a 22r carburated motor. i put in a rebuilt 20r and it has ran for a year now until the alternator (or at least asumed since lights went dim fast) anywaY changed alt. but yet had no spark so i figured it was coil or igniter since the pick-up coil in dist. was changed when moter was put in. problem is an over eager freind was -helping and im not sure about the wiring from coil to computer and pos. neg.wiring at coilto igniter and computer.have got distributer wires ok .HELP.WITH A CLEAR WIRING diagram of this area(coil) and what did i miss?? 1978 moter and 1988 4-runner carborated
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