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Jack the front of the car up high enough to get under it, put jack stands under the car for safety.
Start on either side and check the tie rod ends for looseness. If you have someone to help, have them hold one tire with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock while you grab the other tire the same way. Try to move the tire by pushing and pulling. If you feel movement, have your helper sit in the car and move the steering wheel 1/4 to 1/2 turn left and righ as you check the tie rods for which one or ones are loose.
Once you have found out which to replace, after they are replaced, you will need to have the car aligned.
Replacing tires every six months is not the worst--Sooner or later a sloppy tie rod let's go. They don't always go out all at once, but sooner or later they all need replaced.
Change the upper and lower at the same time, due to wear from takeing the strain from the other. The parts were I live would cost $116.00 plus $542.38 and the always spring more on you. Do a good over all cheak of tie rod ends and control bushings, Rottors, pads and calipers with a good grease job without breaking the seals. Wheel bearings and CV-Joints should also be cheaked.....Hope this helps.
Question Posted by Asker under the 1994 Mazda for a 1993 Mazda.
Click on the following: free, direct Link. It has several Diagrams including the Serpentine Belt Diagram for your 1993 Mazda 626 2.5L DOHC V6. It has the 2.0L DOHC 4-Cyl Diagrams as well as Instructional and Directional Diagrams that will help you.
the starter is at the bottom rear of the engine, the nose of the starter ges into the transmission bell housing, rear is where the trans bolts to the engine. You need to go under the car to replace the starter, u can't get at it from up top.
Your right axle-shaft (intermediate-shaft) appears to be the problem here. (The right axle-shaft has a bearing in it that gets bad periodcally).
Remove the wheel cover.
Open up the axle nut side with a flat-end screw driver.
Loosen the front axle nut with the 32mm socket.
Remove the front wheel.
Jack up the car and support it on jack-stands.
Remove the brake calipers and tie it up to the strut-spring.
(Check your engine mount, transmission mount)
Remove the cotter-pin from the tie-rod nut.
Loosen and remove the tie-rod nut.
Pry off the balljoints out of the steering-knuckle(watch-out for the black rubber boot on the tie-rod).
Loosen and remove the strut bolts.
Push out the strut from the steering-knuckle.
Remove the bolts that's holding the bearing on the middle of the shaft-3pieces in all.
Use a large pry-bar to pry off the axle-shaft from its immediate end, or transmission case and flange.
Take out the axle-shaft.
Plug off the axle-shaft hole with a rag to stop oil flow.
Replace the axle shaft with a new one, and tighten the axle-shaft bolts bolts starting with the left bolt first, then the right bolt-second, and the upper bolt-third.
Reverse removal of these steps for installation.
When done: Add the required quantity of fluid/gear-oil to the gear-box to compensate for lost fluid/gear-oil.
Yes, I experienced the same thing with mine... you have to losen the 2 motor mounts on that side and lift the motor up about 3 ". I worked at a garage so I had access to an engine hoist. Try using a jack from underneath. Nice engineering from Mazda!!!
hello dusto, no it should not be. the nut on the tie rod end which connects it to the steering knuckle / hub should come off counter clockwise. the nut which connects the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod should also be counter clockwise, remember though that from your view point it will look as though the nut will be turning right. hope i did'nt confuse, please let me know if i can be of any other help.