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1. first take the wheel off so you can see the the caliper and the
rotor. make sure the car is on stands and not just waving around on a
2. look behind the caliper and use your finger to locate, a
pair of bolts behind the caliper... they will be holding the caliper
into place on the suface of the rotor, by a simple look and feel you
can see these, they should take a 17mm socket undo them and remove the
bolts. at this stage you should see the the caliper become loose.
3. remove the caliper by pulling it up and away from the rotor
4. now you can see the rotor remove this it will simply slide away.
5. this will leave the hub exposed and the studs.. you will see that they are wedged into the hub
6. remove the stud/s by hitting them / it with a hammer be carful to not damage the other studs if you just replacing one.
7. there is one spot where the will be a gap and you will be
able to get the stud in behind the hub and have a little bit of room,
rotate the hub to there, make sure the car is out of gear or this will
be very difficult :)
8 once the stud is in take something you can use as a spacer
like a larger then the stud nut. for example and then put one of the
wheel nuts on and tighten slightly
9. use a hammer and drive the back of the stud home, and slowly tighten the wheel nut as you go.
10. once this is done your finished put all the bits back togeather in the oppersite order and replace the wheel.
You will need a special tool to press the lug studs in and out of the flange, or you can follow these directions;
First you will have to pound the broken lug stud(s) out of the wheel hub/flange, use a punch or a drift that is a little smaller in diameter than the lug stud, and be sure that you do not pound on the flange itself, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.
1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.
2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down backwards with the flat end of the lug nut towards the flat washers to take up the slack and use plenty of grease on the threads.
3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.
Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.
Let me know if you require any further assistance.
Never done this before, but here is some stuff I found. I hope it helps. Don't shortchange yourself by trying to save a few bucks at the expense of safety. I hope that this helps. Yu could just buy a used wheel from a wricking yard or online. There are some great aftermarket cmpanies that make great wheels. I got one for a Volvo and a Pontica G-6 and they were under $200.00. Much less than the dealer. I hope this helps.
Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint
pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor &
spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor
center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold
in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and
remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side).
Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo
the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the
rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in
the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN
otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust
or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure
If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a
slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a
very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after
you're done (noisy on road test).
Not the job to do at home,
usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2
hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do
it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.
If you use a hammer to drive the broken stud out you can cause damage to the bearing.
If you use a wheel stud press, the hub bearing will not be affected. The press will remove the old stud and install the new one.
The lugs must be pounded out with a heavy mallet, the new ones can be put back in as much as possible, make sure they are straight, and then use your lug wrench to tighten on the lug nut and keep turning until the lug is fully seated.
that a very hard start to a job go to our local garage give a tip to the guy ask him to loosen the nut with air gun it take 5 second tight it up just enought to go home and do our job hope it help FIXYA our problem thanks pierre