The engine was removed to replace the clutch on a model 915 transmission. The new clutch, pressure plate, seal, throw out & pilot bearing and all the flywheel bolts were replaced and the flywheel machined locally. All went well. Upon re-installation, the engine and transmission casing mate well up to the last 3/16 of an inch and it stops. I can put the four nuts and washers back on the four studs that protrude from the engine and tighten them fine, but when the bolts are tight, the casings remain 3/16" apart. I am afraid to over tighten to "pull" the two together. I actually took the engine back out again to make sure nothing was binding or in between. Nothing appears damaged or scratched and the spline lube was nicely showing on the transmission spline, indicating it had mated. I took off the starter as well to ensure it was not interfering with the starter ring around the flywheel. Is there something I am missing? Second re-install, same exact problem. Robrsheridan@telus.net
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Re: 1981 3.0L Porsche 911SC engine installation
If you have alignment dowels on either the block or trans., this could be blocking the road. Make sure that the input shaft is properly lined up with the pilot bushing. This will be a snug fit and must go in straight.
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Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.
Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.
To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
Open hood, Disconnect - Neg. battery terminal (ground wire) on Battery side. Disconnect + Pos. side then. Unplug any harness' that are plugged into your transmission. Disconect the Slave and wire it out of the way. Block up the lower left side of the engine and remove the transmission side motor mount. Remove the bolts that hold the transmission onto the engine and slide the transmission off of the splined crank (engine output shaft). The clutch is on the flywheel between the pressure plate and the flywheel. Don't get cheap now... be sure and replace the throw out bearing and pressure plate and have the flywheel resurfaced if marred too. follow the instructions that come with the new clutch kit to install and allign the new clutch kit.
Hello, Who installed the clutch"? Were there a new pressure plate installed?
Were there a new throw out bearing installed. Does this 1991 Peugeot 405 have
hydraulic or mechanical clutch linkage?
There a couple of reason why the Peugeot wont move and engine is running and
the transmission is in gear.
1.. Pressure plate is installed backwards.--Remove transmission and reinstall
pressure plate in the correct orientation to the clutch. There is two ways to
install it, but one way correctly.
2. Adjustment for the clutch linkage from the pedal in the driver compartment
is adjusted to tight and not releasing the clutch to where the clutch pressure
is on the pressure plate.
The pressure plate and release bearing are worn out. You will need a new clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing. You can either get an estimate from a garage or replace the parts yourself. To replace you will need a transmission jack and mechanics tools.Remove the drive line. Support the engine with a stand and block of wood. Remove the rear bracket. Position the jack under the transmission and loosen the clutch adjustment. Separate the linkages and release bearing fork . Remove the bolts surrounding the bell housing. Carefully back out and lower the transmission. Remove and replace the clutch assembly, and pilot shaft bushing (brass part at the center of the flywheel). You use a wooden dowel or a pilot shaft tool to orient the clutch disc inside the pressure plate while re-installing.
Given that you said you an depress the clutch and it goes away, you are dealing with a throw out bearing in the area between the engine and transmission. This bearing is responsible for pressing against the pressure plate fingers and release pressure against the friction disc(your clutch, put quite simply). Your best bet is to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot shaft bushing. They are all in the same area. If you wish to tackle this on your own, let me know and I will see if I have the Porsche shop manual to walk you through it. Please let me know.
It is best to replace the clutch driven plate, pressure plate and release bearing at the same time. You have to remove either the transmission or the engine(or both). On some vehicles it is not possible to remove the engine without the transmission. I prefer removing the transmission only, since it does not require a hoist. (Removing engine and transmission complete is a bit more complicated,theres much more things to disconnect, but makes things easier when mating the transmission to the engine after replacing the clutch assembly). When removing the transmission only make sure the engine is properly supported, since the engine is supported by the transmission and vise versa. Take note of all pipes and cables that you remove and mark them with masking tape since that gives you something to write a description on. Remember to mark the spot that you disconnect from as well. Taking close-up pictures of the engine bay will work wonders when your memory fails. Read through this : http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4984410-remove_front_axle_get_engine (solution 2) Drain transmission oil. Remove the driveshafts as described.
Remove any electrical connections to the gearbox.
Remove the gearshift linkage. Remove the clutch cable/clutch operating mechanism(hydraulic clutch) Remember to support the engine before unbolting the transmission from the engine. Remove any mountings still connecting the transmission to the body of the car.. Remove the transmission from the engine bay. It is possible to do this by hand (a helper would be a plus at this point) The clutch pressure plate is then visible on the engine and held in place by 6 bolts. It can be removed along with the clutch plate(which will drop free once the pressure plate is removed. Replacing the clutch is pretty straightforward, except that the clutch plate needs to be centered, or the transmission wont go back on. Autozone stocks a clutch centering tool which you can purchase although some clutch kits come with the centering tool supplied, else you can fashion one out of a wooden dowel. The dowel needs to fit snugly into the recess in the centre of the flywheel. Use insulation tape to build it up if it is too thin. The clutch plate can go in one way only. You will note that the clutch plate centre has a metal plate fitted on one side. This is the transmission side of the plate. Fit the clutch plate and pressure plate to the flywheel and tighten the bolts just enough to hold the clutch plate in place so that it doesnt move around. Using your centering tool make sure the clutch plate is nicely centered. Then tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Which means tighten them up without breaking them. Get the transmission fitted to the engine. This may take some doing especially if the clutch centering didnt go too well. Now reconnect everything and drive the vehicle to the nearest alignment centre to re-set the wheel alignment.
The manual transmission in your Hyundai Elantra uses a clutch to engage and disengage the power from the engine to the transmission.
The clutch disc is sandwiched between the engine flywheel and the transmission pressure plate.
When you switch gears and let off the clutch pedal, there is a short period during which the clutch is slipping to transmit the power in a controlled way. This causes wear on the clutch; over time it will require replacement.
The procedure to replace the clutch is as follows:---
1) Jack up the Hyundai Elantra and place on jack stands.
2)Drain the transmission gear oil into a catch pan. To drain the gear oil, loosen the drain bolt with a ratchet.
3)Disconnect both drive axles (half shafts) from the transmission. Use a ratchet to remove the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut. Once those are out, you can easily pull the axles out of the transmission. The steering knuckle is the component that the wheel and strut attach to.
4)You can locate the two bolts to remove by following the strut down from where it's bolted into the engine bay Removing these two bolts allows you to pull the steering knuckle outward so you can pull the drive axle out of the transmission.
5)Remove the exhaust downpipe from the rest of the exhaust. It will be held on with two bolts at both ends and can be removed with a ratchet. Removing this piece is necessary to gain access to the transmission.
6)Disconnect the shifter cables connected to the transmission. Use a ratchet to remove each shifter cable and its housing.Remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine block (there will be about seven or eight bolts). Place a transmission lift underneath the transmission to hold it and lower it down. If you don't have a transmission lift, you can use a transmission attachment for your jack.Shift the transmission back and forth until it drops onto the jack. Pull the transmission straight back, ensuring that no pressure is put on the input shaft, then lower the transmission to the ground. 7)Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel with a ratchet tool. Then remove the flywheel with a ratchet tool and replace it with a new flywheel. Alternatively, have your flywheel professionally machined at a machine shop then replace it in your car. Torque the flywheel down to the manufacturer's specifications.
8)Place the clutch disc on the clutch disc alignment tool and insert the tool into the flywheel input shaft hole. Connect the new pressure plate to the flywheel and torque the bolts. Once the pressure plate is torqued down, remove the clutch alignment tool. 9)Grease the new throw-out bearing and place it on the input shaft of the transmission. Once the transmission is installed, it will push against the pressure plate.
10) Reconnect all the parts which you removed while replacing the clutch.
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Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable