Question about 1994 Honda Accord

10 Answers

Car won't start or turn over

Hi--

Just a couple of days ago, my car wouldn't start for several hours (tried multiple times), then started again the next morning. Drove it around fine for a couple of days, then same thing happened. This time, I can't get it started again. Both times, the car wouldn't even turn over-- clearly an electrical problem.

I have checked the following things and am running out of ideas:

Battery- checked out fine

Fuses- checked out fine

Starter- replaced it 6 months ago, after 150,000 miles. Last time when it went out, it deteriorated slowly, rather than just not working all of a sudden, like this time.

Main relay- Haven't taken it out, but there are a couple of things that make me think this isn't the problem. Neither of these non-starts have been hot weather related; both times, I was trying to start my car in temperatures lower than 75. Also, main relay shorts are normally accompanied by the lack of a click when the check engine light turns off-- I can definitely hear this click

Some other probably unrelated recent problems:
Took the car home (5 hr drive) and back this weekend, and the a/c sucked-- blew hot air. The a/c in this car has never been great, but this was worse than normal.

It looks like there might be a leak directly in front of the front passenger side tire. I think it's oil. I just changed the oil in my car last weekend, but the level is already low again. I don't think this has anything to do with my car not starting, but ?? I'll get the car running again and then fix this problem.

I know my way around cars a little bit (I'm no expert), and any assistance would be nice.

Thanks.


Posted by on

  • 7 more comments 
  • rockjr_13 Jun 20, 2008

    Alright-- I'll go buy a new main relay and give that a shot tomorrow after work. I'll get back to you.

    Thanks

  • rockjr_13 Jun 20, 2008

    Probably not spark plugs-- I've seen those not working before, and this is different. I'll take a quick look, though.

  • rockjr_13 Jun 20, 2008

    Lame how you have to repost to see all the solutions-- Fixya should work on that.

  • rockjr_13 Jun 21, 2008

    Blah

  • rockjr_13 Jun 21, 2008

    Thanks... ya, those generic answers are annoying. Sorry I'm not rating these good solutions yet-- waiting for a main relay to get in to try that. Though, I should go down to a parts store and try the control module today.

  • rockjr_13 Jun 21, 2008

    Generic

  • rockjr_13 Jun 21, 2008

    Thank you... I will look into it.

  • rockjr_13 Jun 21, 2008

    I guess I should have mentioned that the ignition switch checked out fine.

  • rockjr_13 Jun 22, 2008

    Thank you, Wild Bill!

    You were very helpful.

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10 Answers

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Try to checked all the spark plug .,,or replace it with a new one,,before you put the new you better clean its socket so contact is there..

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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I had one in my shop that did the same thing. I replaced the main relay even though I heard the click also and replaced the ignition switch. Definitely cured it. Your oil leak may be the balance shaft seal. The A/C issue, I really wished I could give you more information about that one.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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If it's not tuning over, it could be the relay, but I'm leaning towards the starter. I know it's only 6 months old, but I went through two rebuilt starters from Auto Zone in less than a year on my 95 accrod, then I broke down and spent the extra money for a new one with a lifetime warranty. I know they're expensive, but beleive me, it's worth the money.

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

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Try checking the ignition switch and also the battery if its charge or better charge the battery and check also the connection from the battery .......

hope that helps.

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

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  • 458 Answers

I would have the control module checked.
Most parts stores do this for free now.
That would be my guess.
At least it is easy to get to and it is free to check.
Control modules go out like this sometimes.
Coil pack could be bad.
I could be all wrong but those are some things that I would check. I just saw a problem like this in a car last week. Anything that can be checked for free is always nice to check. Parts stores can check a lot of things now that could not be checked a couple of years ago. Something like this could be hit and miss if you know what I mean. I do not know about that car but some of the new cars have individual control modules on each spark plug. Those cost around 80.00 each for some cars.
Is the check engine light coming on? If it is coming on you can get the parts store to run the codes or try the on and off key trick. I would get them to check it even if the light is not on.

WB - He did not say what make or model car this was. How did you decide what type of car it was?

I would ignore a couple of these answers given to you. They are generic answers from a couple of these people.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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  • 97 Answers

Hi RockJr 11-
Here are some things to try... First, make suire all battery and starter connections are secure; then if it won't crank, at the starter solenoid (on top of starter) there are two wires, the fat one providing the actual voltage that operates the motor, and the smaller wire that carries the starter actuation control voltage, when the key is turned to "Start". being very careful not to touch grounded metal, use an insulated pair of pliers or screwdriver to connect these two posts together, delivering the always present 12 volts direct from battery to the solenoid. If the starter is good, this should make it crank, indicating a problem further upstream in the crank circuit. If it doesn't crank, you have a bad starter... You can also check this with an inexpensive 12 V test light... ground the clip lead and hold the probe tip to the smaller terminal while having a helper turn the key... If the crank impulse is reaching the starter, the light will come on, and if the light is on but no cranking it is the starter.

If the crank impulse is not reaching the starter, it could be caused by any of the things in the start circuit. The voltage that is supposed to trigger the starter originates from the under dash fuse panel and goes through a kind of self resetting circuit breaker that can be tripped by excessive current heating a short length of resistance wire sufficiently to cause a bi-metal contact strip to curl away from its mating contact and breaking the start circuit... If your problem was heat related, I would suspect the breaker. From there the voltage goes through the ignition switch, and from the ignition switch it goes through a safety interlock circuit which is different for automatic and manual transmissions.

Automatics have "neutral safety" switches that break the circuit if the car is not in park or neutral, and this switch can either be under the shifter cover or built into the transmission. You can try jiggling the shifter while trying to crank; an intermittently faulty switch will usually show some effort to crank (possibly briefly) while doing this.

Manual Trannys have a switch that breaks the start circuit if the clutch pedal is not fully depressed, mounted under the dash in contact with the clutch pedal arm. Working the clutch pedal while holding the key in crank position might produce intermittent start efforts if this is the problem.

If you can locate whichever of these switches you have, you can also use the test light to (1) see if the start signal is coming out of the ignition switch and (2) going through the interlock switch.

You can also temporarily bypass these switches by shorting together or jumpering the two connectors on the switch.

I had a similar problem with my 1991 Prelude that ended up being the starter, and it was HUMIDITY related, of all things! I had driven through some high water by necessity, high enough that the starter was submerged, and then experienced your exact same symptoms... Showed up especially in humid, cold, or rainy weather, The water had washed dirt/sand into the solenoid engagement mechanism and had eroded lubricant, causing the solenoid to bind and not fully engage. Starter replacement solved the problem!

Hope this helps you get it fixed, but don't hesitate to post a comment or question if you need more help, and best of luck!

Thanks!
WildBill

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Bill Bellomy
    Bill Bellomy Jun 20, 2008

    Rock-



    Instead of reposting , try the refresh button... it will reload the latest version of your thread...



    -WB

  • Bill Bellomy
    Bill Bellomy Jun 20, 2008

    Hey Rock-

    ***Clarification***

    I pulled up a wiring diagram at: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090...

    (Yours is Figure 54) and realized my memory ain't as good as it used to be (Old-Timer's?) although most of above is accurate...

    There are two breakers - one before the ignition switch (both wires are white) - and one after (black wire with white stripe from ignition switch / white wire with red stripe going to interlock circuit). In the A/T version white/red wire goes to the neutral safety switch, and a black wire with white stripe goes to the starter solenoid. The manual trans version is a little more complicated: there is a blue wire with red stripe going from

    fuse 9 (7.5 Amp) to the clutch switch and black wire with green stripe going back to the fuse box and the starter relay (coil). The relay contacts have the white/red wire from the ignition switch on one side and the black/white wire to the starter solenoid on the other. IF you have the manual trans, the relay is another possible culprit, and I have seen the clutch pedal switch get loose in its mounting and cause intermittent no crank issues. If you get the test light, you can check for the crank voltage presence right down the line (with the key held in "start" position)


    • no voltage on white going to ignition switch = bad CB-1 or possible loose fuse (this should always be "hot", regardless of key position.

    • not on white/red = bad ignition switch

    • not on black/green = bad clutch switch (with clutch pedal fully depressed)

    • not on black/white = neutral safety switch (auto) or starter relay (manual)

    If you can't fix it with this information, we're both in trouble!!! Ha!!!

    And DON'T waste your money on the main relay!!! It has NOTHING to do with your problem!!!



    If you have any questions contact me directly at wldbil49@yahoo.com, and I'll be more than happy to work with you. I'm online 24/7 (Well, my COMPUTER is, anyway!!!)--- I might be napping or otherwise occupied, but I check my mail and this site regularly....



    'Nuff said?



    Go get 'em, and we'll look at your A/C and oil issues next!



    -WB

  • Bill Bellomy
    Bill Bellomy Jun 21, 2008

    RockJr13-

    I just received notification that you rejected my proposed solution, and I am very curious as to why? Did I misunderstand your problem? As I interpreted it, the starter does not work sometimes, and does at others (a problem I have dealt with successfully more than once in my real world experience).

    Is that correct? Or did I misinterpret your excellently detailed problem description. My interest is two-fold - First, I want to make sure you get your problem solved. And second, I want to learn what I can do to improve my effectiveness and become a better adviser. And I share your opinion regarding the generic answers. My response was not a WAG (Wild A** Guess) nor generic. I downloaded the shop manual for your vehicle, examined the schematics, and tried to tailor my response in a way that was both explanatory and understandable. The challenges and frustrations of long distance problem solving make my job difficult....If I was there, I could tell you what the problem was in short order, able to get my hands on the car!

    Thanks for your input back, and, so I can tell which comment is directed toward me, please preface your response with a "WB"

    If I can help in anyway, you have my e-mail, or you direct a free posting to me.

    Best of luck,

    WildBill

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It seems like bad or loose wire connection at starting electrical circuit.
Check also ignition switch or replace it
Have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be unsafe to drive.
It's definitely better to check any small problem before it will cause something serious

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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Only a few basic things are necessary for the engine operation 1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
4. Compression in the cylinders (Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)
Plus, to start the engine, the battery, the starter and the starter circuit should be OK.

If the engine won't start - there's no magic - one of these things is probably missing. Most often it's a spark- or fuel- related problem, but often it could be very simple things like dead battery.
If the car won't start, check simple things first:
Make sure you have a fuel in the tank, oil in the engine and the battery is OK, follow this link - How to check the battery
Now simply answer the questions, press "Yes" or "No" (If it's blue, follow the link).

- Do you hear the cranking sound when you're trying to start your car? (Yes No )
- When you switch the ignition ON before starting a car, does the "check engine" light come ON? (Yes No )
- When you switch the ignition ON, do you hear fuel pump buzzing sound from the gas tank area? (Yes No )
Before your engine died, did you experience any prior events such as:
- leaving the lights ON overnight (Yes No)
- driving through a deep puddle, or washing the engine compartment? (Yes No)
- trying a jump start? (Yes No)
- having only a little fuel in a tank? (Yes No)
- having had the engine repaired recently? (Yes No)
- the engine was overheated? (Yes No)
- extremely low oil pressure? (Yes No)
- unusual noises such as knocking, pinging, whistling? (Yes No)
- smoking from exhaust pipe? (Yes No)
- strong smell of a gas? (Yes No)

Now, let's try again. Turn off the radio, try to crank the engine one more time, and listen carefully. Is the cranking sounds different than it used to be? If it's different, does it looks like the engine being cranked by the starter too slowly? (Yes No)
Is the engine being cranked too fast? (Yes No)

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 20, 2008

    Accept the solution if this helped you in any sense.

    Regards

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 20, 2008

    If you don't hear the cranking sound when you're trying to start your car, means that starter doesn't work - something could be wrong with the starter, starter wires, relay, or the battery is dead. Also check battery terminals, they could be corroded or loose.
    How to check the battery
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top



    Discharged or dead battery is one of the possible reasons for a car not to start. Very common is situation when we forget to turn lights OFF overnight (for example, dome light) which causes the battery to discharge. In this case when attempting to start a car, all you will probably hear will be clicking noise - there won't be enough power to turn the starter. Here is the simple way to check if the battery is discharged: Turn the ignition on, with the engine off, switch the windshield wipers on. If they move way too slowly, much slower than usual, the battery is probably discharged.
    If the battery is relatively new, it can be recharged. All you need to do is to boost your car and let the engine run for a while to charge the battery.
    However if your battery is more than three - four years old, you will probably need to buy a new one. Sometimes, an old battery may even die with no apparent reason, even if day before it was OK.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top




    When you switch the ignition ON before starting the car the "Check engine" light supposed to come ON indicating that engine computer is powered. If you won't see the "Check engine" light after switching the ignition ON, there is no power coming to the engine computer. It might be a broken wire (common problem on 2001 - 2002 Nissan Sentra, for example) or faulty relay, burnt fuse, etc.

    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top



    On most newer vehicles with fuel injection, when you switch ignition ON the engine computer runs a fuel pump for a few seconds to pump initial gas pressure. You can hear it from the gas tank area - it's like a buzzing sound. It's not very loud and the gas pump works only for a second or two after switching the ignition ON, so you may need someone's assistance checking this. If there is no buzzing sound, something might be wrong with the fuel pump or its electrical circuit - bring your vehicle to the garage or a dealer.
    CAUTION: Never try to fix or replace a fuel pump by yourself, it's located in the gas tank, and the car can catch a fire if not following certain precautions. Bring your car to a repair shop

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 20, 2008

    If you drove over a puddle, just before your vehicle died, the water could shorten the ignition wires.
    CAUTION: Never touch the ignition wires, coil or distributor when ignition is ON or the engine is running; and be careful, engine is probably very hot!





    Switch the ignition off, open the hood and check the spark plugs wires (check the picture), distributor and spark plug caps. They shouldn't be wet.
    If they are wet, turn the ignition off. With the ignition off, dry the ignition wires, distributor and spark plug caps with a clean rag or tissue. Now try to start engine with fully pressed accelerator pedal because your engine may be flooded with gas.


    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    If your engine died after you tried jump start it may be electronic related problems. For example, if you connect accidentally the wires from other car to your battery the wrong way ("+" to "-" and "-" to "+" ) even for a moment, it may cause engine control and other car electronic damage.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    Make sure that you have fuel in the tank. It may be that your vehicle fuel gauge isn't working properly. (The first signs that there is too little fuel in the tank are occasional lugging, loss of power, and a louder, irregular sound of the electric fuel pump coming out from the fuel tank (for the injector engine)).
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    If your vehicle's engine was repaired just before it died, call back to the repair shop and ask them to check it. May be they just forgot something to connect back.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 20, 2008

    CAUTION: Never open the radiator cap or extension tank cap when the engine is hot!
    If the engine died after it overheated and won't start even after its temperature is reduced, there is probably a severe engine problem (like broken pistons, blown head gasket, etc.). Check the coolant level. It should be between "low" and "full" marks in the expansion tank (look at the image). If it is too low, add a coolant fluid. Even If the engine starts after the temperature is reduced, you have to find reason of the overheating, because the engine overheating may result in serious engine damage. Have your car inspected by the mechanic.


    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    Low oil pressure warning light is ON while driving
    Never proceed driving if the low oil pressure warning light is on while the engine is running. It's possible that engine ran out of the oil, or oil screen is clogged in the oil pan. Driving even few blocks with low oil pressure may cost you a new engine. Get your car towed in the repair shop.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    Engine noises Heavy knocking from the engine most likely points to the severe engine problem - for example when the engine runs out of the oil.
    Whistling may be a result of a loosened drive belt. When the drive belt is loose, it slips on the alternator pulley and in return, the alternator can not recharge the battery.
    Engine detonation knocking (High pitch metal knocking that appears mostly while accelerating) is usually a result of too advanced ignition or poor gasoline. It also may happen when one of the cylinders misfires or when engine overheats.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    Gas smell
    If there is a strong smell of gas in your car, you probably have a gas leak, turn the ignition off and get out of the car.
    CAUTION: Never proceed driving if you feel the gas smell, even if it happens only when you start the car. Possibly you have a gas leak that can easily cause a car to catch a fire - have your car inspected.
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    Smoke
    - black smoke means the engine runs very rich - too much gasoline goes to the engine which most likely means there is something wrong with fuel- or ignition system. For example this may happen when one or two cylinders misfire.
    - stinky blue or white-blue smoke means burning oil as result of serious internal engine defect (like broken pistons or piston rings).
    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top


    While cranking engine is turning over too slow
    If you note, that the engine is not being turned over by the starter or being turned over too slowly, it may be because of a(n):
    - discharged battery
    - a starter defect
    - bad connection with the battery terminals
    - internal engine defect (bad oil, lack of the oil, etc.)

    "Engine no-start troubleshooting" To the top

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 20, 2008

    While cranking engine is turning over too fast
    If while cranking the engine is turning over too fast, it means there is probably no compression in the cylinders. It could happen because of engine internal problem (broken pistons, or valves) or if the timing belt breaks or jumps.

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  • 1,011 Answers

1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
4. Compression in the cylinders (
Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)
Plus, to start the engine, the battery, the starter and the starter circuit should be OK.

If the engine won't start - there's no magic - one of these things is probably missing. Most often it's a spark- or fuel- related problem, but often it could be very simple things like dead battery.
If the car won't start, check simple things first:
Make sure you have a fuel in the tank, oil in the engine and the battery is OK, follow this link - How to check the battery

If you don't hear the cranking sound when you're trying to start your car, means that starter doesn't work - something could be wrong with the starter, starter wires, relay, or the battery is dead. Also check battery terminals, they could be corroded or loose.
How to check the battery

Discharged or dead battery is one of the possible reasons for a car not to start. Very common is situation when we forget to turn lights OFF overnight (for example, dome light) which causes the battery to discharge. In this case when attempting to start a car, all you will probably hear will be clicking noise - there won't be enough power to turn the starter. Here is the simple way to check if the battery is discharged: Turn the ignition on, with the engine off, switch the windshield wipers on. If they move way too slowly, much slower than usual, the battery is probably discharged.
If the battery is relatively new, it can be recharged. All you need to do is to boost your car and let the engine run for a while to charge the battery.
However if your battery is more than three - four years old, you will probably need to buy a new one. Sometimes, an old battery may even die with no apparent reason, even if day before it was OK.

When you switch the ignition ON before starting the car the "Check engine" light supposed to come ON indicating that engine computer is powered. If you won't see the "Check engine" light after switching the ignition ON, there is no power coming to the engine computer. It might be a broken wire (common problem on 2001 - 2002 Nissan Sentra, for example) or faulty relay, burnt fuse, etc.
On most newer vehicles with fuel injection, when you switch ignition ON the engine computer runs a fuel pump for a few seconds to pump initial gas pressure. You can hear it from the gas tank area - it's like a buzzing sound. It's not very loud and the gas pump works only for a second or two after switching the ignition ON, so you may need someone's assistance checking this. If there is no buzzing sound, something might be wrong with the fuel pump or its electrical circuit - bring your vehicle to the garage or a dealer.
CAUTION: Never try to fix or replace a fuel pump by yourself, it's located in the gas tank, and the car can catch a fire if not following certain precautions. Bring your car to a repair shop

If you drove over a puddle, just before your vehicle died, the water could shorten the ignition wires.
CAUTION: Never touch the ignition wires, coil or distributor when ignition is ON or the engine is running; and be careful, engine is probably very hot!
Switch the ignition off, open the hood and check the spark plugs wires (check the picture), distributor and spark plug caps. They shouldn't be wet.
If they are wet, turn the ignition off. With the ignition off, dry the ignition wires, distributor and spark plug caps with a clean rag or tissue. Now try to start engine with fully pressed accelerator pedal because your engine may be flooded with gas.
If your engine died after you tried jump start it may be electronic related problems. For example, if you connect accidentally the wires from other car to your battery the wrong way ("+" to "-" and "-" to "+" ) even for a moment, it may cause engine control and other car electronic damage.
Make sure that you have fuel in the tank. It may be that your vehicle fuel gauge isn't working properly. (The first signs that there is too little fuel in the tank are occasional lugging, loss of power, and a louder, irregular sound of the electric fuel pump coming out from the fuel tank (for the injector engine)).
If your vehicle's engine was repaired just before it died, call back to the repair shop and ask them to check it. May be they just forgot something to connect back.

CAUTION: Never open the radiator cap or extension tank cap when the engine is hot!
If the engine died after it overheated and won't start even after its temperature is reduced, there is probably a severe engine problem (like broken pistons, blown head gasket, etc.). Check the coolant level. It should be between "low" and "full" marks in the expansion tank (look at the image). If it is too low, add a coolant fluid. Even If the engine starts after the temperature is reduced, you have to find reason of the overheating, because the engine overheating may result in serious engine damage. Have your car inspected by the mechanic.


Low oil pressure warning light is ON while driving
Never proceed driving if the low oil pressure warning light is on while the engine is running. It's possible that engine ran out of the oil, or oil screen is clogged in the oil pan. Driving even few blocks with low oil pressure may cost you a new engine. Get your car towed in the repair shop.

Engine noises Heavy knocking from the engine most likely points to the severe engine problem - for example when the engine runs out of the oil.
Whistling may be a result of a loosened drive belt. When the drive belt is loose, it slips on the alternator pulley and in return, the alternator can not recharge the battery.
Engine detonation knocking (High pitch metal knocking that appears mostly while accelerating) is usually a result of too advanced ignition or poor gasoline. It also may happen when one of the cylinders misfires or when engine overheats.

Gas smell
If there is a strong smell of gas in your car, you probably have a gas leak, turn the ignition off and get out of the car.

CAUTION: Never proceed driving if you feel the gas smell, even if it happens only when you start the car. Possibly you have a gas leak that can easily cause a car to catch a fire - have your car inspected.

Smoke
- black smoke means the engine runs very rich - too much gasoline goes to the engine which most likely means there is something wrong with fuel- or ignition system. For example this may happen when one or two cylinders misfire.
- stinky blue or white-blue smoke means burning oil as result of serious internal engine defect (like broken pistons or piston rings).


Thanks
Good Luck


"Don't forget to rate the Solution"

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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Please check on the on board computer on the car and wiring of the car and make sure there isn't any leak in the of in the car then the seal is broken you need to reseal back the whole engine block , check the ac vents they may be blocked ............... It is advisable give good service station and fix all the issue ,it is not possible manually as this problem is complicated and needs special tools which will cost more than actual fix.................................


Good luck...................................

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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1 Answer

96 GMC Yukon won't turn over


Thats what i would try and if that dont help, maybe check the connections at the starter.

Feb 18, 2013 | 1996 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

1995 Pontiac Grand AM SE. Heater fan works for weeks then won't go, try a couple hours later then it goes.


It sounds like the brushes on armature for (blower motor ) are worn. Sometime a bad spot on the armature from not being used often and also by being in the engine compartment where it is exposed to condensation. When the brushes stop at that particular spot, the blower will not start spin process unless it draws alot of current that may be why the fuse blew. You can remove the blower and examine or just make the change.

Jan 28, 2013 | 1995 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

The fuel pump was changed on my 87 toyota camry the car ran good for a couple days and than it just turned off it turned over but wouldn't start than after a couple hours it started. than a couple


Sounds as if you may have a relay getting to hot and not woriking until it cools down. Below is a diagram of the relay box under the hood of the vehicle. The relay marked "EFI MAIN RELAY" could be the problem. When the vehicle is NOT starting, have someone try and start the vehicle. As they are turning the key put your finger on that relay. You should feel it "click" as it is engaging (can't spell). If you don't feel anything like a "click" going on, then that means the relay is not working. This is saying that the problem is fuel related. It could be many other things but since you said you were having fuel problems then I would starthere. You may even want to gently tap on that relay as well to see if that kind of loosens it to begin woroking again. Below is a diagram of that box for you.

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Feb 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 97 Crown Vic/w police interceptor....I asked a question several days ago because of issuses I'm having with my car. The car starts sometimes, with no problems. Other times...it won't...


Sounds like its a starter problem,if you can pull the starter off take it to an auto parts store,

there are many locations that have equipment to put a load on the starter, and they will be

able to tell if its bad. once you pull the starter off, if you can check the teeth on the fly wheel,

if there is a dead spot, the starter could spin and not engage the flywheel. I hope it's the

starter. the bendix on the starter the teeth that engage the flywheel could also have dead

spot's. and not engage all the time. good luck!

Jul 27, 2011 | Ford Crown Victoria Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Sometimes my 2008 sonata won't start back up after turning off engine, I have to wait at least 20-45 minutes for it to start back up. I hear 1 click when I turn the key and everything else seems to...


Sounds like it could be a similar issue to what I just went through. My car wouldn't start on two separate occasions after I had refilled my tank. First time happened a little over a month ago, the starter would crank, and crank, but no signs of life in the engine. Tested the spark plugs, I was getting spark, but the ****** wouldn't start.
Had it towed to the dealership, and they said after 4 long attempts, they got it to start. I took it home, and the next morning I couldn't start it again. Towed it back a second time, and it started right up for them. Drove it back home again and a a month later things started acting up again.
A few days ago the wife pulled the car out of the garage, where the car was level, stopped the car on our slanted driveway and when she came back to start it just minutes later, it hesitated, but did turn over. I filled up the tank and the very next morning, I could not start my car again.
Called for a tow from AAA, and the driver said "let me try something". Pulled out a hammer, and wacked the bottom of my gas tank 4 or 5 times. The tow guy gets in, tuns the ignition to engage the fuel pump (didn't turn the key all the way), he does this about 4 times, then the very next turn of the key it starts right up. The driver said it sounded like a bad fuel pump.
I drive the car back to the dealership (this is the third time) and talk to the same guy I had dealt with all along. He calls me later in the day to tell me they finally got it to not start and were able to isolate the problem to the fuel pump sensor. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and I was off and running.
Hope this helps!

Jun 12, 2011 | Hyundai Sonata Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just purchased a 2002 Nissan Sentra and 3-5 days later the car began shutting off when stopped on several occasions and starting back up. Lastly the car shut off while in park and would not start up again...


Next time it does it. try hitting the fuel tank. a couple times if necessary. if it starts back then your fuel pump is dieing. some times when the pump heats up they will stop working, only to come on latter. let me know

Nov 18, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Wont start again after driving


have somene try to start the car while you listen under the hood for the weird sound of something spinning it kinda sound like something griding. sometimes it occurs 2 to 3 seconds after turning the key. if you hear that sound then it's your starter i just had the same problem about a day ago . it's easy to fix i took mine out and had it rebuilt for 55 bucks reinstaled it and it started right up. here's a that will guide you through the repairing process.. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2076435

Jan 20, 2009 | 2000 Nissan Maxima

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