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Re: no ignition wont start
Are you getting fire but still no start? Check for fuel delvery. If no fuel delivery at the shrader valve. then check the fuel pump. If you don't hear the hum of the fuel pump when in the "on"position, replace it.Also make sure you have power at the constant 12v at the coil and distributor. If no power is present you may have a faulty ign. switch.
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what you should have in the electronic distributor is an ignition module with a coil outside wired to the distributor. The ignition module creates the pulses needed for the coil to generate extreme high voltage . If that coil is incorrect voltage for the system then it is most probably overheating and failing to work. There are to voltage coils that can be used . One is a straight 12 volt coil that starts and runs on 12 volts and the other is a start on 12 and runs on 7.5 volts with the run circuit going through a resistor or resistor wire . Check out which coil should be in your car and if correct (7.5) check the voltage to the coil with a multimeter and it be should read 7.5 volts when the ignition is in the run position
p0685 refers to ECM power relay control---circuit open===causes--wiring--ECM relay
Replace this relay. Check the wiring from the coil to the distributor as there is a dead short after the coil somewhere for the fuse to blow and the coil to overheat.. You may have a electronic module failure either in the distributor or the ECM
Pull off the coil ignition cable at the distributor and check for spark coming out of coil when cranking engine over. Use a heavy rag or glove to hold the wire 1/4 inch from a metal ground. Should see a strong blue spark when cranking to verify ignition is good. If no spark, check for battery voltage to coil on the coil primary. If you have current to the coil, suspect a bad coil, ignition module, crank position sensor, or cam position sensor, or pcm. The coil, ignition module, and sensors can be tested before replacing.
Check the wiring going to the coil. If you installed an alarm on that vehicle disconnect the main power wire to the alarm to disable the ignition kill circuit. Locate the ignition relay located on the drivers side fender wall or in the power distribution box under the hood and test it. finally, there is a fuse on the interior fuse panel that will give you this condition. I do not have the exact location so check all fuses in the panel and replace any blown fuses.
Using a test light, and with the ignition key in the "On" or "Run" position check for full battery voltage at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil, and then check for full battery voltage at the wire connector to the distributor for the wire that runs between the (+) positive side of the ignition coil and the distributor. (dis-connect the wire connector from the distributor to test) If full battery voltage is present at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil but not through the ignition coil to the distributor then replace the ignition coil. If full battery voltage is present at both the ignition coil and the distributor then remove the ignition module from the distributor to have it tested and most auto part stores will test it for you for free. The ignition module is what generates the signal that the ECM uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, and be certain that the ignition module is installed into the distributor using a silicone grease or some other die-electric compound to completely cover the metal mounting surface of the ignition module because it is a heat-sink, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. There is also a hall-effect switch inside of that distributor that would be the next suspect if the ignition module tests out alright, and if there is no spark there is a pick-up coil/stator assembly that could be faulty and if that is the case then replace the entire distributor because the distributor will have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace the pick-up coil/stator assembly.
Be careful putting 12 volts to the injector harness,it will burn the e c m out.The module in the distributor,and the pickup coil work together to pulse the injector and energize the coil.The ignition module is most likely the problem,but the pickup coil in the distributor,would be my second choice in the two.See if it has spark,or spray a little bit of starting fluid in the intake,not much,if it fires,and tries to run,replace the module,and the pickup coil.If it has no spark,the module replacement will be all that is needed.
It sounds like the TFI Module may be defective, this is the heart of the ignition system, it is a black or grey module with about 6 wires plugged into it on the side of the distributor (it may also be mounted on a finned heat sink on the inside of the left front fender), In rare cases it is the another ignition componet like the ignition coil or distributor stator, make sure you check the coil wire and the distributor for any signs or of being damaged (dist cap and coil lead need to be replaced), white powder on ther coil or distributor terminals is the give away of damage.
Also perform the following test, check with a 12 volt test light: On the coil primary ( connector at coil) there are two wires, one is red. Make sure you have voltage at this wire with the key on, then probe the other wire, usually green, crank the engine and this circuit should blink. If it doesn't, make sure the distributor turns, if it does then replace the ignition module and the stator inside the distributor.
I recommend you use Motorcraft or Ford parts. The aftermarket modules can be a problem as far as reliability. If the distributor rotor doesn't turn when you crank the engine, then you may have a timing gear problem